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New Chain

  1. #1
    Junior Member JMD-CBR's Avatar
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    New Chain

    Hi everyone, I’m thinking I should replace my chain and sprockets pretty soon, but I don’t know much about the different brands available. Can anyone recommend a good brand of chain for a sport bike? Also, is it worth it to change sprocket size for acceleration?


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  2. #2
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    Re: New Chain

    Good brands of chain. RK or EK. If money is no object, go with DID.

    What kind of bike do you have?

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  3. #3
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    Re: New Chain

    Is this for the 08 cbr?
    If so, you could go up a tooth or two on the rear sprocket or down 1 on the front. Down 1 on the is like 3 up on the rear.

    That bike runs a 525 (width) chain stock. If changing chain and both sprockets, go to a 520 set (lighter for less rotating mass).

    I prefer renthal as a sprocket brand and a high end RK racing chain. About $220 for the whole lot.



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  4. #4
    Your Father csmutty's Avatar
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    Re: New Chain

    Have you done a chain before on a motorcycle? If not where are you located? There's a special tool you need to put the master back together by "riveting" it.

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  5. #5
    Junior Member JMD-CBR's Avatar
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    Re: New Chain

    Quote Originally Posted by Degsy View Post
    Is this for the 08 cbr?
    Yes, it’s for the CBR, I was thinking of doing either +1 on the front or -2 on the back. Then there’s that speedometer error though...

    Quote Originally Posted by csmutty View Post
    Have you done a chain before on a motorcycle? If not where are you located? There's a special tool you need to put the master back together by "riveting" it.
    I’m on the North Shore in Massachusetts, I’ve never done a chain before, first time.

    Thanks!



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    Re: New Chain

    Quote Originally Posted by JMD-CBR View Post
    Yes, it’s for the CBR, I was thinking of doing either +1 on the front or -2 on the back. Then there’s that speedometer error though...



    I’m on the North Shore in Massachusetts, I’ve never done a chain before, first time.

    Thanks!



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    +1 on the front or -2 on the back will give you less rpm per gear/speed. You'll want to do the opposite of that.

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  7. #7
    Your Father csmutty's Avatar
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    Re: New Chain

    Quote Originally Posted by JMD-CBR View Post
    Yes, it’s for the CBR, I was thinking of doing either +1 on the front or -2 on the back. Then there’s that speedometer error though...



    I’m on the North Shore in Massachusetts, I’ve never done a chain before, first time.

    Thanks!



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    There's probably someone around that area who has the tool or you can buy one. I'd help you if I was closer. Unless you want to ride down to northeast CT and I can help you.

    Something like this
    Motion Pro PBR Chain Tool | 10% ($8.70) Off! - RevZilla

    This is the one I have. It's a nice tool.
    Amazon.com: RK Chain T101 Black Breaker Press Fit Chain and Rivet Tool: Automotive

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  8. #8
    Lifer capitalcrew's Avatar
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    Re: New Chain

    I found a DID x ring chain on ebay with steel front and rear sprockets for like 120 bucks I think. I thought that was pretty reasonable.

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  9. #9
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    Re: New Chain

    Speedo errors are easily rectified. My bike has stock gearing but like many motorcycles, the speedo is inaccurate right out of the box.

    I put a SpeedoHealer DRD on it and it's dead-on accurate now. Piece of cake. $80. Will also correct gearing-induced errors, of course.

    SpeedoDRD

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  10. #10
    Lifer Tekime's Avatar
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    Re: New Chain

    Whatever you do, don't buy a cheap chain. Seen quite a few snapped eBay chains on SV/GSXR groups lately and a snapped chain is no joke.

    I've had good luck with DID and Vortex. Go to a 520 chain and swap everything out at once. There are combo kits that make it a bit easier.

    -1/+2 combo is very noticeable but does result in about a 15% odometer discrepancy. You can use something like a SpeedoDRD to fix that.

    Search Amazon for "chain breaker and riveting tool" and you'll see a bunch of chain tools in a red box for under $20. I have one of these sets (as well as a Motion Pro and some other random brand) and it has worked fine for several jobs. Obviously the more expensive kits are usually higher quality but personally I use this cheap kit with no problems.

    I recently loaned it out to somebody doing their first chain swap and with all the YouTube videos and Google you have plenty of instructional aids. Not a super tough job but important to do it right. I say tackle it yourself as its one of those things every bike owner should be able to do!

    Quote Originally Posted by csmutty View Post
    Heads up I think you might have linked to an RK Racing knockoff tool - the reviews sound scary! For that price you should expect a real nice set.

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  11. #11
    Your Father csmutty's Avatar
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    Re: New Chain

    Dang. Good to know. Yeah get one that's not a knockoff. Haha.

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  12. #12
    Junior Member JMD-CBR's Avatar
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    Re: New Chain

    Thanks everyone, I’ll probably pick up one of those chain and sprocket kits and a chain tool kit. I’m planning on doing a track day in the near future so I want to make sure the bike is in top shape.

    Is the re-gear worth it? I’ve heard it helps with street riding.


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    Re: New Chain

    Quote Originally Posted by JMD-CBR View Post
    Thanks everyone, I’ll probably pick up one of those chain and sprocket kits and a chain tool kit. I’m planning on doing a track day in the near future so I want to make sure the bike is in top shape.

    Is the re-gear worth it? I’ve heard it helps with street riding.


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    A re-gear is probably worth it, but I think maximum +2 on the rear sprocket.
    -1 front and +2 rear is like adding 5 teeth to the rear. That's going to annoy the shit out of you on the highway and you'll be changing gears every 2 seconds on the street.

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  14. #14
    Lifer Tekime's Avatar
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    Re: New Chain

    Yeah, all depends on how you ride and what you want to get out of it. If you're happy with the power delivery now, no need to change gearing. If you want some more acceleration down low and don't mind losing a few MPH in top speed and a little higher revs while highway riding, start with a small change like Degsy recommended - go up 1-2 teeth on the rear sprocket.

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  15. #15
    Lifer
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    Re: New Chain

    Seems like every chain company has their 'special' O-ring variation. I'm not sure any of them are truly special in a way that matters. What you're really buying is a chain with quality o-rings.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tekime View Post
    Heads up I think you might have linked to an RK Racing knockoff tool - the reviews sound scary! For that price you should expect a real nice set.
    Amazon is tricky because of the third-party seller option. Pretend it's sold by Amazon direct, and 2 third-party sellers. One third-party seller has fakes for an oddly good price. The two real sellers sell off their inventory, people leave good reviews on the real product. Then you come along, and buy the product from the only remaining vendor and get a fake.

    On that RK Amazon link, click the 'Used & new (3) from ____' link. It's available directly from Amazon.

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    Last edited by aldend123; 08-17-18 at 10:48 AM.
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  16. #16
    Lifer
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    Re: New Chain

    I have a $30 ebay/knock-off chain breaker/rivet tool. It works perfectly fine. I've done a half dozen plus chains with it and I've already bent the smaller punch, just like everyone does with the name brand tools.

    I also use cheaper chains. What's the house / Tucker brand chain? BikeMaster? My local KTM dealer sold me one a while back and it's fine. O-ring, sealed chain, just like the rest. Good 'nuf.

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    Re: New Chain

    Quote Originally Posted by nhbubba View Post
    I have a $30 ebay/knock-off chain breaker/rivet tool. It works perfectly fine. I've done a half dozen plus chains with it and I've already bent the smaller punch, just like everyone does with the name brand tools.

    I also use cheaper chains. What's the house / Tucker brand chain? BikeMaster? My local KTM dealer sold me one a while back and it's fine. O-ring, sealed chain, just like the rest. Good 'nuf.
    Im betting you broke the smaller punch because you didnt grind down the rivet first.

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  18. #18
    Your Father csmutty's Avatar
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    Re: New Chain

    I just cut the chain in half with a cutoff wheel now haha.

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  19. #19
    Lifer capitalcrew's Avatar
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    Re: New Chain

    Quote Originally Posted by csmutty View Post
    I just cut the chain in half with a cutoff wheel now haha.
    Yup. If it's junk then it's junk and I cut it off lol.

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  20. #20
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    Re: New Chain

    Quote Originally Posted by csmutty View Post
    I just cut the chain in half with a cutoff wheel now haha.
    That's what I do.

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  21. #21
    Lifer
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    Re: New Chain

    Quote Originally Posted by Degsy View Post
    Im betting you broke the smaller punch because you didnt grind down the rivet first.
    Something like that. Or didn't grind it enough and left too much of the punch outside the guide portion and forced the tool.

    Whatever the cause; the knock-off works fine and is no more fragile as the expensive jobby.

    I now cut chains too.

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  22. #22
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    Re: New Chain

    Quote Originally Posted by nhbubba View Post
    Something like that. Or didn't grind it enough and left too much of the punch outside the guide portion and forced the tool.

    Whatever the cause; the knock-off works fine and is no more fragile as the expensive jobby.

    I now cut chains too.
    Totally agree. I have a cheap and I have the DID genuine expensive one. They both do the same job in the same way. The expensive one looks way cooler though.

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  23. #23
    Junior Member JMD-CBR's Avatar
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    Re: New Chain

    How’s this look?

    ABN Chain Breaker 13-Piece Set with Carrying Case – Chain Cutter and Riveter for Motorcycle, Bike, ATV Amazon.com: ABN Chain Breaker 13-Piece Set with Carrying Case – Chain Cutter and Riveter for Motorcycle, Bike, ATV: Automotive



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  24. #24
    Lifer
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    Re: New Chain

    That's the one I have. It does the deed... works on bicycles too.

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  25. #25
    Lifer backinthesaddle's Avatar
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    Re: New Chain

    I hear a lot of -1 +2, but never hear of -1 +1. My guess would be not as dramatic and the axle basically stays in the same place in the swingarm as OEM. Is the difference in not having to move the axle back not worth anything really? also I figured -1 +1 was a bit less extreme in ratio change from OEM. A bit more punch down low still but maybe more tolerable on the highway than -1 +2 ?

    Thanks

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