chain installation..

[benVFR]

I bought a motion pro rivet tool ($30) which I'm super glad I did, I can't see how I could have gotten it together with vise grips as I was advised.

Any tips on getting that link absolutely flawlessly riveted? Mine is not kinked, and when the chain is under tension it straightens out as it comes off the sprockets just like the others, but if the chain is not tensioned it does not rotate as freely as the standard links if you rotate the links with your hands.

I'm guessing there is a way more expensive tool out there that can press both pins at once to ensure the plates are perfectly parallel? Anyone seen one? I didn't find one online.

[JeffL]

Nope, just gotta be meticulous when you're doing it to ensure you rivet the plate on evenly.

[benVFR]

Yah I spent a good deal of time getting it as precise as possible.

I'm going to see how it goes, in any case I don't think that link has any more resistance then all the links on my old chain had.

Sucks that the chains are so expensive. The procedure is almost the same as bicycle chains but bicycle chains are so cheap I can just toss them any time a link is not perfect.. no way I'm doing that with a MC chain!

[ssg]

I have a DID KM500 that does the task you are asking about I think...it's sitting in my shed at the moment, wanna borrow it?

[benVFR]

Maybe next time.. I got it set up pretty nice.. the chain/wheel spins quite nicely when it's up on the stand in neutral now.

My freakin clutch (hydraulic) burped fluid when I had everything apart though. (ARGH!) I had to completely replace the fluid and it took a long time to bleed. The instructions basically said to plan on doing it but I thought I was going to get away without doing it.

[KB]

the only way to get it perfect is to use a micrometer.


KB

[benVFR]

Hey Somestrangeguy.. can I borrow that tool sometime?

I may buy one for next time but at the moment I'd rather not spend the money.

All I need to do is flare/stake the pins so maybe I could ride over sometime and do it quick.. depending on where you live.

I rode about a hundred miles yesterday and everything seems to have turned out great, the new chain is very smooth and there is no sign the master link is going anywhere but I guess I'm paranoid and want to flare the pins properly.

Ben

[ssg]

Sure, I'm back on tour again so I'll drop you a pm with my whereabouts and schedule.

[ChR1s]

That KM500 is kick-ass, man.

[Currently]

I got one of those DID tools too.

Still a virgin ... gonna be broken in sometime this year.

Anyone know what the part number for a master RIVIT link for a stock chain is?

I picked one up from someone that had less than a hundred miles on it for real cheap. (He was doing the 520 conversion thing)

I got chain and both sprockets for 75 bucks.

And yes ... that chain does have less than a hundred miles on it.

[stoinkythepig]

I don't think it's a good idea to ride it with the pins not flared, would really suck if it came apart.

I use dial calipers to make sure the side plates have the same spacing as the other side plates; and that the spacing is the same front and back so that the plates are parallel. Kinda tedious, but really cheap; especially if you borrow the chain tool from someone on here and already own some dial calipers.

[Currently]

Originally posted by stoinkythepig
I don't think it's a good idea to ride it with the pins not flared, would really suck if it came apart.

I use dial calipers to make sure the side plates have the same spacing as the other side plates; and that the spacing is the same front and back so that the plates are parallel. Kinda tedious, but really cheap; especially if you borrow the chain tool from someone on here and already own some dial calipers.

That is a great idea ... never thought of that.
I do have a set of dial calipers ... as for the tool, I am willing
to lend it out as long as I come with it.