Yea.................... the .1
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Yea.................... the .1
definitely try to get all the old fluid out. even though it's compatible, it will still boil before the 5.1, so you can get minor fade/bubbles from that.
i use the RBF600 in my car and it's been great on the track. used to use the ATE, didn't notice any problems with that.
As long as you stay in a compatible system, IE DOT 3, 4, 5.1, ignore the DOT designator when comparing different options. Look at the actual boil temp rating. There are high quality 'DOT 4' labeled fluids that resist boiling better than cheapie 'DOT 5.1' labeled products, etc.
Yea,
I've never been a fan of this proceedure. I could never see the benifit from it.
I've never understood it either. compressing the fluid/trapped air over night is better than just letting it sit? how that does that work? to me it actually seems like the wrong thing to do. when you compress the fluid the air now has to move through a denser material to try to rise to the top.
you're forcing the bubbles to rise up to the master
it could be a myth, but it's suggested very often & it's worked for me in the past.
I can't think of anything bad that would happen but I see no good coming from it either.
If you hold the lever down you will block off the bleed port trapping whatever is in the system in the system. If we are talking about one or two bubbles, I think you would be better off bumping the lever so the fluid moves back and forth and makes the air bubble come unstuck from the inside of the line/caliper/whatever. Then crack the bleeder at either the master or the caliper to let the air out. Sometimes it will work its way out the reservoir but I would not count on that.
If the lever is so soft you can pull it to the bar you need to keep flushing it(or look for something else that could be wrong).
If I can't see the difference in color, I do 1-2 reservoir (about 1/2-1 cup if I had to guess).
the theory is...as fluid does not compress with pressure but gas goes...the trapped air bubbles will decrease in size and possibly work their way up easier.
Constant pressure on the Orings on the pistons in the master cylinder and calipers for an extended period will actually deform them (swell). The next day the lever feels solid,not due to less air bubbles but due to temporry distorted oring seals
Gotcha. air get compressed, moves easier. I still think cycling the system would be a better approach. I know you are not promoting the hold lever down method.
I'm not sure I buy that it would distort the rubber bits, but if you have seen it I'll take you word.
I'm going to ask around about this one.
If air bubbles are trapped in the FLUID (hi Oreo :wavey:) putting them under pressure might not loosen them and allow them to rise. tapping lines, tapping master / calipers would in that case knock them lose whereas the zippy tied lever didn't.
I mentioned one bad thing that can happen. Fresh washers, torqued banjos and fluid, not oil, on the banjo about to drip on the fairing. I left a rag under the master / banjo just in case, glad I did. I really didn't notice a difference in lever feel after the zip tie idea, compared to before. Though Jim is right, it is mentioned a lot. And like I said, the radial nissin master on the gixxers is junk IMO. So perhaps that's why I didn't notice a change.
Well I found a lot of air in the left caliper, so I did like 4 more cup refills. I think it's as good as it'll get for now. I'll have to re-bleed after Friday's practice.