Charging test?

[R7]

Spent a few hours cleaning the carbs, got it all back together and it ran perfectly. Ran the same test again and the numbers were a bit lower, 12.5 at the battery with the engine off, and 13.5 at 4500-5000. Said screw it, went for a 25 mile ride and everything seemed fine. I shut it off and started it several times, never once a hint of a low battery. However, I did hook up the tender just because, and this time the light never went green, so i'm guessing the battery may be on it's way out and has an intermittent issue?
Not sure if the RSV4 battery is the same, may try it just as a trial, may look it at that tomorrow

[nhbubba]

A 12V battery is a 12V battery. As long as it fits and has enough amperes to turn 'er over.. rip it!

[stoinkythepig]

Spent a few hours cleaning the carbs, got it all back together and it ran perfectly. Ran the same test again and the numbers were a bit lower, 12.5 at the battery with the engine off, and 13.5 at 4500-5000. Said screw it, went for a 25 mile ride and everything seemed fine. I shut it off and started it several times, never once a hint of a low battery. However, I did hook up the tender just because, and this time the light never went green, so i'm guessing the battery may be on it's way out and has an intermittent issue?
Not sure if the RSV4 battery is the same, may try it just as a trial, may look it at that tomorrow

I have a couple of different sized, good batteries you could use to test. Are you near me? Sure sounds like a battery on its way out...

[R7]

I have a couple of different sized, good batteries you could use to test. Are you near me? Sure sounds like a battery on its way out...

Unfortunately no, I'm in RI. Thank you for the offer though.

[Jim]

Check the posts on the battery and everything that goes onto them. Your readings are definitely good enough

[duganc1717]

Spent a few hours cleaning the carbs, got it all back together and it ran perfectly. Ran the same test again and the numbers were a bit lower, 12.5 at the battery with the engine off, and 13.5 at 4500-5000. Said screw it, went for a 25 mile ride and everything seemed fine. I shut it off and started it several times, never once a hint of a low battery. However, I did hook up the tender just because, and this time the light never went green, so i'm guessing the battery may be on it's way out and has an intermittent issue?
Not sure if the RSV4 battery is the same, may try it just as a trial, may look it at that tomorrow

You put that battery from the RSV4 in that poor little R1 and it probably will never run right again.

[R7]

Little update...
I rode the bike a few times local, and all seemed fine. Ventured down to the dealer to pick up some parts, about a 55 mile round trip and noticed as soon as I pulled in the dealers lot, the dash flickered a bit. Went in, did what I had to, got back on the bike and it started normal, so thought it was a glitch. Get a mile down the road and the dash went out every time I hit the brakes, or the turn signals. I knew it had stopped charging at that point. I was still 20+ miles from home and gambled riding it rather than tow. Pulled the plugs for the headlights to save the battery and made it home. Once home I shut it off, went to start it, and nothing at all happened, not even a click! Charged the battery back up and it started again. Put the tester on, did the same tests, battery showed good, but also showed the same with the engine running, and the same 12.6 at 5k rpm, so it obviously isn't charging at this point.
Did some poking around on the R1 forum, first thing I have to do is pull off the side panel to get at the stator wires and test that. According to the forum, the most common cause is a burnt RR wire..or the connection plug. Looks like I know what I'll be doing this rainy weekend!

[Paul_E_D]

Hmmm, I have the same problem on my Triumph. Brandy new R/R but still not making quite enough juice.

[R7]

Hmmm, I have the same problem on my Triumph. Brandy new R/R but still not making quite enough juice.

Seeing what I see with my R1, I'd check all the connections first before replacing anything.

I finally got around to testing the stator today, according to the service manual, it is within spec. I think my problem is exactly what i read about on the R1 forum, corroded connections. I don't have the correct tool to pull the wires out of the connectors, but that is what I need to do to clean them and tighten them up. The main stator connector has quite a bit of corrosion and appears to have been very hot at some point and melted a little bit. I'm going to clean them best I can, and put some di-electric grease on there and see if it makes any difference.
I thought about trying to find a used harness on ebay, but what are the chances of the new/used harness not having the same corrosion issue?

[stoinkythepig]

Just replace the entire stator to R/R connector with three marine-rated, heat shrink sealed, male and female, pairs of spade terminals. There's no polarity with three phase, so you can't mix them up.

[RandyO]

Seeing what I see with my R1, I'd check all the connections first before replacing anything.

I finally got around to testing the stator today, according to the service manual, it is within spec. I think my problem is exactly what i read about on the R1 forum, corroded connections. I don't have the correct tool to pull the wires out of the connectors, but that is what I need to do to clean them and tighten them up. The main stator connector has quite a bit of corrosion and appears to have been very hot at some point and melted a little bit. I'm going to clean them best I can, and put some di-electric grease on there and see if it makes any difference.
I thought about trying to find a used harness on ebay, but what are the chances of the new/used harness not having the same corrosion issue?

when I had corrosion issues a couple of years ago, I could not find a used harness for my V-strom that was not compromised in some way

I ended up shelling out the $$$ for a new harness and DeOxit electrical cleaner & conductive and not conductive grease

[R7]

Spent some time the past couple days cleaning connections, and again second guessing my test of the stator..so I tested it again. Still with in spec, actually was on the higher end, but in spec. Just for the hell of it (or a suggestion to do so on the R1 forum) I pulled the stator cover to look for burnt coils...all looked good.
I couldn't find any way in the service manual to test the R/R, but a little research told the symptoms of one going bad.
Called the local dealer yesterday, they had one in stock, went and picked it up today and installed it. Done deal, that was the problem. All tests were on the high end of in spec..13.2v at idle, 14.2V at 5k, 12.9V at the battery with the key off.
Just came back from a 20 mile test ride, and all seems fine once again

Now it's time to rack up some miles on the old girl!

[lopycam]

Now it's time to rack up some miles on the old girl!

I hear there is an opening for the deals gap trip. Should be able to rack some miles up on that trip. Fun miles too.

[The Snowman]

Shoulda bought a Honda.

[Stromper]

Plus one on clean your battery teminals to shiny metal

Also if you can find and check your negative ground.connectors on

THERE is a small possibility that some diodes etc. in the R/R could be heat sensitive from short to open and thus give intermittent readings

[R7]

I hear there is an opening for the deals gap trip. Should be able to rack some miles up on that trip. Fun miles too.

I wish I could, but already have a trip planned in the fall that eats up a chunk of my vacation time. You're gonna love it down there on the WR!

Shoulda bought a Honda.

I've already got one problem child (aprilia) I don't need another