Cleaning Spark Plugs

[stoinkythepig]

The factory pilots are slightly lean, but the mains are on the rich side to avoid toasting the engine at big throttle settings. The shims are probably not necessary. If the air filter has only 500 miles and the problem started about 500 miles ago... You see where I'm going with this right? It's probably over-oiled. If it's like mine, it just needs a mist of oil on the furry side. It does not need to be saturated.

Could be a mouse nest in the air box too. I had one of those in my Concours airbox once and it ran horribly.

[greenmonster]

Dave-Ive only put 500 miles or so on her since this past June. At that time, I put on new chain, sprockets, air filter, plugs, etc. Around July/August, Rye and I did some carb fine tuning, (carb sync, etc.) along with replacing the CCT. Bike ran great. Very responsive throttle. By the end of August, I began smelling the raw gas smell after riding around for a while and shutting her off. Go into a store, 10 mins later go to start her up, only she would crank longer before finally catching. In October, I cold started, and thats when I had the whitish/blue smoke from the exhaust that didnt disipate after a few seconds like most bikes will do as they warm up. I hadn't seen this condition before, so I shut her down and havent started her again since I didnt know if I was frying the engine or what. After all Ive read here and talking to Rye, I'm leaning towards some sort of fuel delivery/mixture problem....or like you said, the shims may be playing a role too. Right now, Ive got the tank, etc. off, down to the carbs. I just hope the gas in the bowls isnt turning into fahking varnish! Damn, I wish my garage was heated!

[stoinkythepig]

The fuel smell may mean you have a leaking float valve. It can let gas dillute the oil if it gets past the intake valves and rings, but it can also cause hydrolock which can be really bad news.

The whitish blue smoke could be oil seeping by the valve seals. When a bike gets old and sits a lot between rides, they can do that (especially if the oil is dilluted with gas). It'll usually go away with a ride and it would surely cause what you saw on #4 if you shut it down right away.

I'd fill with fresh gas, inspect the air filter and ram air plumbing, remove the shims, clean out the fuel bowls, and inspect the valves and seats; if you find nothing wrong, take it for a nice 50 mile ride and look at the plugs without starting it again. It's gonna suck waiting 'til the weather's good enough for a 50 mile ride though.

The fuel in the bowls is easy to drain. There's valves on the bottom of each bowl. They usually take a 3 or 4 mm allen wrench to open and close.

[greenmonster]

Thanks for all your advice, Dave. And everyone else, of course. Ive now got some good ideas on how to approach this. EFI must be such a blessing!

[FireFly]

I would also check the gap on the plugs after you clean them. Scrubbing w/ the brush may bend them a little. That way you dont introduce another issue.

+1 Especially if you use Iridium type plugs which are somewhat delicate, wouldnt use a regular gapping tool on em either, use a wire gauge feeler.