That's prolly it, check against a service manual if you gots one.
The burping part is MOST important, if you're not familiar, you have to lean the bike way over, requires some help from a friend so you don't drop the bike.
LRRS\CCS\WERA #486
OK let us say I am going to do it with the cap. My cap is on the right side of the bike.
Can you tell me exactly what I should do?
Like run the bike for x minutes and then lean it which way and then open the cap while leaning and running
I am just not sure
Thank You
Fill it, run it a minute (not to warm but to circulate). Shuit it off, remove the cap: if the rad. cap is on the right side, lean the bike over to the left, the idea is to make the bubbles rise to the cap-neck and out of your radiator; thus the burping analogy.
Next, run her to temp and shut off, then burp again.
Repeat a few times (3 total) while the engine is warmed up.
LRRS\CCS\WERA #486
My race bike being burped
LRRS\CCS\WERA #486
You should tip the bike LEFT to burp it. The water filler cap is the highest point in the colling system.
derek
I'd highly suggest leaving the cap OFF when you warm it up to operating temp. Not a good idea to remove a radiator cap while the coolant is hot...
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
OK so I did not really do a good job of the whole bleeding thing and I am still loosing coolant out the overflow but I have two other concerns.
Everyhing is good as far as, the bike starts right up everytime and I have not lost any power but I think I am burning some oil. Not alot but some, I am also not too sure how much because I screwed up on something so this part could all be part of my HYPERCONDRIA
The second thing is easier to be sure of. OK, after my engine rebuild I was getting about 180miles before I hit reserve and before the rebuild as the engine was wearing I was getting about 150miles per tank.
Well I just hit the reserve yesterday at 135milesand that was all fast riding but all highway. Like The fastest was 160mph and not like the whole 135miles. I would guess the average speed for those miles was about 100mph which is faster then my normal Massachusetts - New York commute speed but not alot.
Sorry for the long post. Please Help!
At this point, I would recommend that you take the bike to a shop that you trust to let them determine the source of the problem.
I wish I could get my RC to go 135 miles before the reserve light comes on.
lolOriginally posted by guru_lou
At this point, I would recommend that you take the bike to a shop that you trust to let them determine the source of the problem.
I wish I could get my RC to go 135 miles before the reserve light comes on.
Well I was hoping to find out if it is possible I am just being crazy?
So I was waiting for you and LegalSpeed to post.
I guess I missed the part about the engine being recently rebuilt.
How many miles have you got on the bike since the rebuild? And, did the cooling problem appear immediately after the rebuild, or did it run OK for a while first? Who did the engine rebuild?
Well I had a few cooling issues after the rebuild because the guy that did it was sloppy and I got a hole in the radiator because of it but we fixed that. This new thing kind of showed up recently. Well I do not have a full sized overflow so I realize I am causing my own problem. I am moving stuff around this week and going to get a bigger overflow in.Originally posted by guru_lou
I guess I missed the part about the engine being recently rebuilt.
How many miles have you got on the bike since the rebuild? And, did the cooling problem appear immediately after the rebuild, or did it run OK for a while first? Who did the engine rebuild?
I have ridden about 8000 miles since the work was done.
The overbore was done by Bob's Bikes on Long Island New York. He sucks so badly. If you bike was on fire do not stop just drive about 4 more miles east to Xtreme Motorsports.
Does that help?
Actually, that helps a lot. It adds a few other things into the equation. The overbore could be some of the cause of the problem.
But back to the overflow.....is the system an overflow or a reservoir? An overflow will be just that, a place for the excess to go. It doesn't matter if it is located above or below the highest point in the cooling system (the radiator cap). If it's a reservoir, the hose going into it should go deep into the bottle and should contain some coolant in it at all times. The bottle should also be located at a point higher than the radiator cap. There would be a second hose coming from the top of the container that will act as the overflow for the container. Also, the volume in the bottle (or container) will increase when the bike is hot and will get sucked back into the radiator when the bike cools down.
That means, if your system is designed as a reservoir, which I believe it is, and you have it set up as an overflow, the system will send the coolant that has been created by the expansion of the liquid as it heats up, out to the overflow bottle. If it is a true overflow bottle, as the coolant cools down, the system is sucking back air rather than coolant. Now the system is running low and the coolant will run hotter, causing more expansion, more loss of coolant, and eventual overheating. The big bore kit exacerbates the problem because the water jacket around the cylinder heads are now closer to the combustion process, thus absorbing more heat. Big bore also means more power which means more heat.
If you want to talk about it off line so you don't have to wait the extra day for your answers, you can email me or call me at 603-878-4731.
Lou
It is a reservoir system but I have a really small one on now so yes it is sucking air back in.Originally posted by guru_lou
Actually, that helps a lot. It adds a few other things into the equation. The overbore could be some of the cause of the problem.
But back to the overflow.....is the system an overflow or a reservoir? An overflow will be just that, a place for the excess to go. It doesn't matter if it is located above or below the highest point in the cooling system (the radiator cap). If it's a reservoir, the hose going into it should go deep into the bottle and should contain some coolant in it at all times. The bottle should also be located at a point higher than the radiator cap. There would be a second hose coming from the top of the container that will act as the overflow for the container. Also, the volume in the bottle (or container) will increase when the bike is hot and will get sucked back into the radiator when the bike cools down.
That means, if your system is designed as a reservoir, which I believe it is, and you have it set up as an overflow, the system will send the coolant that has been created by the expansion of the liquid as it heats up, out to the overflow bottle. If it is a true overflow bottle, as the coolant cools down, the system is sucking back air rather than coolant. Now the system is running low and the coolant will run hotter, causing more expansion, more loss of coolant, and eventual overheating. The big bore kit exacerbates the problem because the water jacket around the cylinder heads are now closer to the combustion process, thus absorbing more heat. Big bore also means more power which means more heat.
If you want to talk about it off line so you don't have to wait the extra day for your answers, you can email me or call me at 603-878-4731.
Lou
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