Fuel Tank Repair

[gregp]

I just picked up a 1996 DR650 with only 3000 miles on it. It had been sitting in a barn for a couple of years. I had to give the carb a good cleaning before it would run, but it seems to run well now.
I have found that it has a fuel leak from the lower right hand seam of the tank (stock, steel). The seam is covered with a thin black moulding that I have yet to pull off. When looking into the tank, I can see some rust on the frame hump, but I have seen much worse.
I am looking for recommendations for repair. I have never used any liners, such as Kreem, POR-15, or Caswell's, but I have been told that it must be at least 60 degrees to use any of these (my garage is not heated).
I have also been considering Permatex fuel tank repair, which would possibly allow me to repair the tank from the outside without creating an eyesore.
The tank is beautiful, and does not have a scratch on it, so I would like to preserve it one way or another.
Thanks!

[DuncanMoto]

Get the seam welded and Kreem the inside of the tank.

[Rambunctous]

How about fiberglass and plastic tanks?

[gregp]

I have access to a TIG welder, but I am concerned about messing up the beautiful stock paint job.
I have also considered purchasing the IMS (4.9 gal?) tank for this bike, but I really did not want to invest the $250+.
So, this is all about saving the stock tank at this point. I was curious to see if anybody here had any experience with sealers or liners.

[gregp]

For those curious, here is what it looks like:

[DuncanMoto]

Nice bike, but it looks like your kickstand is leaking oil.

[Degsy]

Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry8330/4.5.0.77 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/105)

Be very very careful if you go near that tank with a welder. Even old old gas in tiny quantities can make a big big boom, especially in small quantities that vaporise.

[gregp]

Yes, that is a small spot of melted snow that the kickstand is sitting on...
As far as the big *Boom!*....yes, I am aware of that as well. I hope to get the tank off and remove the moulding this weekend to get a better idea of what I am dealing with here. While the tank is off, I will remove the carb again and drill out the fuel screw plug to richen up the idle a bit. I have read that I should also remove the screen in the carb fill spigot, as it can lead to problems down the road.
While the tank is off and empty, I will remove the entire petcock assembly and clean the inlet filters, as well as the entire tank out really well.
This bike is intended for my daughter, who wants to move up from her Ninja 250. I intend to lower the 650 with the factory recommended procedure.

[Kitt]

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Be very very careful if you go near that tank with a welder. Even old old gas in tiny quantities can make a big big boom, especially in small quantities that vaporise.

x2

kreem goes on THICK, I would think that would solve all your problems, a safe and (not so easy) way. get a bunch of SS hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, whatever)... then you pour something that will help break up the rust, and shake the tank for... ohh, a couple hours. Then apply kreem - it's pretty damn thick, and i may be wrong, but I think you can apply more than once if you want a thicker liner.

[gregp]

Thanks, Kitt. I have read the "insert screws and shake" recommendation as well.
Have you used the Kreem liner method yourself? If so, how long did the entire process take?
I saw a HD tank with a "failed" Kreem liner attempt, and it had large, hard, chunks of the stuff rattling around in the tank, with well over 50% of it still attached to the inside of the tank. I do not want to end up there!
I read that the Caswell stuff is an epoxy type, and it remains somewhat flexible after it is cured.

[FAST GSXR750]

I had a radiator shop weld the tank on my 81 gs then they sealed it right there. Cost about $100. They cleaned it and pressure checked it after also. The seam had like 6 or so rust thru spots.