Countershaft issue

[Pittenger5]

Ok, on the RMZ the countershaft has been spaced out to allow the chain clearance of the rear wheel. Originally the sprocket is held on by a circlip thing, but because of the spacer that wont work. I have no fucking idea how it was held on before, but theres no threads in the shaft now. Ive been trying to drill it out, and was hoping to helicoil something in there, but it seems to be hardened, and I cant even drill it out, and Im not sure I could get threads dug in for the helicoil anyway. Anyone else have any other suggestions?
Anything I could jam in there and then drill and helicoil that? Would JB Weld hold, maybe Mighty Putty, Billy Mays said that could do anything. Course he's dead, and Ill be fucked if Im gonna listen to a dead man.

[slammp]

Probably not a good idea but you could spot weld it in place? Youll never change it again, but it would hold.

[ptk-napalm]

Bad idea.

Buy some new parts to that bike. Do yo want to die by just doing a temporary fix?

If you can't keep your bike in proper maintenance, don't ride it because it could kill you. This is not car where you have four tires so what if one blows out you still have three more type scenarios.

Enough said.

[Kurlon]

It can be drilled and tapped, just like it had splines and a circlip ring cut in it as part of the mfg process. I think it's going to require better tools than what you can find at Home Despot though. Time to get a machinist involved.

[Pestilence]

. Time to get a machinist involved.

You could put the sprocket on a lathe and face out some of the material to allow room for the circlip

[Awesome]

Bad idea.

Buy some new parts to that bike. Do yo want to die by just doing a temporary fix?

If you can't keep your bike in proper maintenance, don't ride it because it could kill you. This is not car where you have four tires so what if one blows out you still have three more type scenarios.

Enough said.

What's written here is, I don't know what you're talking about, but let me do some preaching anyways.

Too much said.

[Sheppo]

What's written here is, I don't know what you're talking about, but let me do some preaching anyways.

Too much said.

[Kurlon]

You could put the sprocket on a lathe and face out some of the material to allow room for the circlip

If I remember correctly, the sprocket is already dished to provide some offset. Carving more material away will reduce the width of the sprocket where it meets the countershaft, which may cause it to wear rapidly. not to mention be even less stable thanks to running offset.

Edit: Oh, and if you have a lathe, you have access to the tools to repair the countershaft! : )

[Pittenger5]

And yes, cant lathe that much away, the circlip trench is basically behind the sprocket now. This thing is offset like a mofo.

[obsolete]

Got a picture?

[Pestilence]

And yes, cant lathe that much away, the circlip trench is basically behind the sprocket now. This thing is offset like a mofo.

Then a drill and tap sounds like the best way to go. Not going to be easy especially if it's hardened steel.

[Sheppo]

I do know a machinist if it comes to this...

[FTMS]

Got a picture?

Can you get a picture of this special sprocket by itself and on the bike?

Was it held in place by a set screw on the back side of the sprocket?

[Kurlon]

Depending on the offset needed, you could get hella-ghetto with an 'offset adapter' setup like I run on my mini. (Oh yeah, here's where great plans start...)

1st, find a sprocket mfg that will make custom front sprockets. Sprocket number one is setup as normal for your bike, but no teeth. This sprocket goes on your shaft, and is retained by the circlip.

Sprocket number two is splined for your shaft, and has the desired number of teeth. On the back side a recess is cut to provide room for the circlip when this sprocket is pressed against the first. Both sprocket will need two bolt holes drilled so they line up through the sprockets. The holes in the 1st sprocket need to be threaded, the second are through holes.

Assembly is slide on 1st sprocket, retain with circlip. Slid on second sprocket, bolt to first with two bolts, lock wire bolts.

This will give you an offset front sprocket that will work with stock mainshafts.

[Pittenger5]

its not a special sprocket, just a normal sprocket with a spacer behind it. And it was held on by a bolt that survived 7/8ths of the season, which we cant figure out how it stayed.

But I will snap some pics when I get home

[Awesome]

occam's razor

[obsolete]

The bolt was threaded straight into the shaft?

[Pittenger5]

The bolt was threaded straight into the shaft?

No threads there currently. But thats the idea Im going for.

[obsolete]

Does it look like it was thread at one point and they blew out or not at all.

[Pittenger5]

Doesnt look like there was any.

[Kurlon]

Had to be some threads in there originally, that bolt wouldn't just friction fit in there for a whole season+.

[obsolete]

Maybe it had a dry wall anchor on it. lol

[Pittenger5]

Shit pictures, damn my dads camera sucks

1. Obviously the sprocket on, thats how it sucks, essentially flush with the end of the counter shaft
2. Sprocket off, thats the spacer
3. Pulled the spacer out, the outside edge is at the groove for the circlip
4. Bare shaft (giggity) you can kinda see the groove for the circlip.

[obsolete]

Use the same hopes and dreams that held it on this season.

[R7]

Before the spacer was there, what held on the sprocket, the circlip?
I never liked the idea of spacing a countershaft, it's a lot of added stress in the area.
I spaced the rear sprocket on my YZ but not the front. Figured I'd rather sacrafice a little sprocket life than have other issues...and after 7 trackdays, some squidly road riding, and countless trail riding hours, my sprockets still look good...and there's no rust on them