End of season oil change?

[Pittenger5]

Ok both my bikes are due for an oil change anyway, so I figured Id get them out of the way on the assumption that I dont want any metal shavings ni there all winter. Now Ive heard some people say that you should change it again in the spring cause you dont want oil sloshing around thats been sitting all winter?
Any truth to this, or just change it now and rip it in the spring

[hammadown]

Someone will prob have a more expert answer on this (enter Degs, Pk, et al) but I do one before storage and one after. My thoughts are you dont want all the crap sitting in there all winter to corrode etc, and in the spring, there may be some water that has condensed inside and the oil could degrade over time (though I don't know this for fact, just my intuition).

[nt650hawk]

Just tear the engine apart. Then you won't have to worry about it.

Just don't ask Dan about what to do!

[Pittenger5]

I thought the lack of oil was for weight savings? How much oil does an engine really need anyway?

[LuvDog]

Plenty of differing opinions on this...

I change the oil pre-winter and then ride it out in the spring.

[Pittenger5]

I figured there is as many opinions on this as tires, types of oil and break in procedures, just wanted to hear what people had to say.

Ive always just switched it when it was due, regardless of the time of season, havent seem to have any problems. But I gotta switch it now anyway.

[Pittenger5]

Haha, theres obviously no exact answer. Ive never taken the battery out of the bike, and never put it on a tender, never had problems. But oh well, maybe Im just lucky

[brewmaster]

1) Fill tank up with stabilised gas
2)Ride her till she's warm. (wheelies & burn outs optional)
3) Pop a beer.
4) Change the oil/filter.
5) Fog the engine.
6) pop next beer.
7) top tank off with stabilised gas.
8) take battery out and put on tender in the basement.
9) Pop next beer.
10) review if tyres need replacing from step 2.
11) Adjust valves if a Ducati.
12) Start bench racing on NESR until spring. (assess beer supply for winter)

[Degsy]

I tend to just change the oil in the spring. Never had a problem. A few times I have felt energetic and put cheap crap oil into the crankcase for the winter, then changed again in the spring for the good stuff.

I keep my bikes on a tender all winter, I fill the tank and add stabil, then run the bikes once or twice a month for about 10 minutes. I wheel them outside so that the brakes don't seize up.

derek

[akira700]

I just change before winter but for me no need since
my last change was recent (like a month or so ago)
Then I ride in the spring.

Once now and once in the spring I think is excess
for no really good reason in my opinion.

[Manny]

This thread sucks.....winter sucks.....

[Pittenger5]

Hmm, I did not know this. It is gonna be in a semi-heated garage, but since the batterys under the seat, maybe Ill go all out and throw a tender on it.

[CEO]

A buddy of mine on another forum is very mechanically inclined and a great bike tech. I trust his opinion on these topics very much. Here's what he has to say about winterizing:

A few tips...

Put the stabil in at the gas station.
Add the stabil in before you pump your gas. This way the gas mixes the stabil for you. THink about it.

Change the oil in the fall just before you put it away. Change the oil, start it to wet down everything. Then kill it.

There is much debate on drain carbs or not. But for you it don't matter with FI.

Wash it well, wax it, air up the tires. Put on stands. Clean and lube chain.

You don't have to pull the battery if you put it on a tender.

AND DO NOT START IT DURING HIBERNATION. NO... I REPEAT NO "WARMING IT UP" CRAP!

Doing so, especially in colder areas, creates condensation in the drivetrain (motor, tranny, clutch, exhaust, everything), not to mention drain out gas, which I will get to in a min. But condensation makes rust and we all know that is bad. If you understand what causes gasoline to gunk up is really caused by air. So the less air you have in the system the better.


Then in the spring, pull it out, check the tires, check the fluids, start it. let it warm up. While warming up, check for leaks. turn it off, let it sit and check fluids again and lube chain.

Now the oil is still basically new. I tend to run 500 miles on this. Then change the oil and the plugs.

The reason you don't change the oil before you get it out, is simple. During its hibernation is when o-rings and/or gaskets can dry out and fail. If you change the oil right away, you could end up doing it again right away. no reason to do it twice or for no reason. Further, its still basically new. However it has been sitting in a high condensation area. That is why I suggest changing it after about 500 miles.

REMEMBER: Oil is cheap, motors aren't!

Change the plugs then (after the 500 miles) cause you would have easily went thru a few tanks of gas and burned out all the stabil.

Good luck!

If any of you have better/more info, feel free to rip away at it. Just thought I would post his thoughts.

[Stoneman]

A few tips...

Put the stabil in at the gas station.
Add the stabil in before you pump your gas. This way the gas mixes the stabil for you. THink about it.

Change the oil in the fall just before you put it away. Change the oil, start it to wet down everything. Then kill it.

There is much debate on drain carbs or not. But for you it don't matter with FI.

Wash it well, wax it, air up the tires. Put on stands. Clean and lube chain.

You don't have to pull the battery if you put it on a tender.

AND DO NOT START IT DURING HIBERNATION. NO... I REPEAT NO "WARMING IT UP" CRAP!

Doing so, especially in colder areas, creates condensation in the drivetrain (motor, tranny, clutch, exhaust, everything), not to mention drain out gas, which I will get to in a min. But condensation makes rust and we all know that is bad. If you understand what causes gasoline to gunk up is really caused by air. So the less air you have in the system the better.


Then in the spring, pull it out, check the tires, check the fluids, start it. let it warm up. While warming up, check for leaks. turn it off, let it sit and check fluids again and lube chain.

Now the oil is still basically new. I tend to run 500 miles on this. Then change the oil and the plugs.

The reason you don't change the oil before you get it out, is simple. During its hibernation is when o-rings and/or gaskets can dry out and fail. If you change the oil right away, you could end up doing it again right away. no reason to do it twice or for no reason. Further, its still basically new. However it has been sitting in a high condensation area. That is why I suggest changing it after about 500 miles.

REMEMBER: Oil is cheap, motors aren't!

Change the plugs then (after the 500 miles) cause you would have easily went thru a few tanks of gas and burned out all the stabil.

Good luck!

This is great advice, and I do the same almost exactly. I DO NOT bother with the plugs. With today's fuel delivery systems, newer streetbikes can go a lifetime without needing sparkplug replacements (that's a slight exaggeration)...

If you don't have stands, park it on a piece of thick carpeting or non-pressure treated wood. You wanna avoid prolonged contact with concrete or cement from what I'm told...

[stoinkythepig]

This is great advice, and I do the same almost exactly. I DO NOT bother with the plugs. With today's fuel delivery systems, newer streetbikes can go a lifetime without needing sparkplug replacements (that's a slight exaggeration)...

Totally agree on the spark plugs. I'm on my second set in my 9R with about 60,000 miles. I only changed them the first time because it seemed like the right thng to do (at 15,000 miles, if memory serves). Now, after putting 45,000?? miles on the second set, and they still look great and give excellent fuel economy, I'm thinking the originals would probably still be fine.

[akira700]

Why is everyone talking about hibernating their bikes ?
Where I am its 60 degrees! Maybe a little wet but I'm riding!

[Stoneman]

Why is everyone talking about hibernating their bikes ?
Where I am its 60 degrees! Maybe a little wet but I'm riding!

Where I am it becomes virtually impossible to get my bike outta my driveway and down the dirt road (mud season). Unless of course, you're riding a dual-sported 150,000 mile SV or a similarly outfitted V-Strom...

[akira700]

Where I am it becomes virtually impossible to get my bike outta my driveway and down the dirt road (mud season). Unless of course, you're riding a dual-sported 150,000 mile SV or a similarly outfitted V-Strom...

You need some pavement, my friend! Dont they have that stuff out
in NH nowadays !

[Stoneman]

You need some pavement, my friend! Dont they have that stuff out
in NH nowadays !

There's a little scattered about here & there...

[Pittenger5]

I actually changed the oil in all 3 bikes last night, and was gonna winterize the street bike. I just couldnt bring myself to do it. I can feel another couple nice days coming. So as always, Ill be outside freezing my ass off in 15 degree weather trying to wash my bike to put it away for the winter. But that is better than missing a nice day cause its already winterized

[smf]

1)Ride her till she's warm. (wheelies & burn outs optional)
2) Pop a beer.
3) pop next beer.
4) consider putting battery on battery tender
5) Pop next beer.
6) Start bench racing on NESR until spring. (assess beer supply for winter)

fixed that for ya

[Pittenger5]

Im with Scott on this one

[brewmaster]

fixed that for ya

Thanks! I was getting thirsty just thinking about that list.

[978chris]

10) review if tyres need replacing from step 2.

haha

I have *read* that changing the oil before storage is a good idea because oil that has been run in a motor develops acids and other shit that is corrosive (effects which are magnified upon the specific area/parts the oil settles into all winter).

I have NO IDEA WHATSOEVER if there is any truth to this. It's cheap and easy though, so I'll do it.

[Pittenger5]

Yeah, fortunatly I was due mileage wise around now anyway, so I took care of it last night. I know I wouldnt do it in the spring either, that first nice day I barely check tire pressure I just wanna hop on and ride the thing. Let alone spend that day doing routine maintenance