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Just caught this thread tonight props to you. Its nice to get an education from someone who knows there shit and when they let you do the work its even better. Great job bud you did allot of work on that baby it must feel good...)
1993 Honda CBR900RR
1990 Suzuki GSXR1100
1992 Kawasaki ZX750
1996 Honda F3 Trackbike
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
You need to check out that brake return spring or whatever is causing the brake lever to have a shitload of play before putting any pressure on the fluid... once you get the lever in it feels good but there is a lot of slop beforehand.
And get all that ghey chrome off while you're at it.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
You and Chris are starting to act like an old married couple...
1993 Honda CBR900RR
1990 Suzuki GSXR1100
1992 Kawasaki ZX750
1996 Honda F3 Trackbike
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
LRRS/CCS Amateur #514 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / 434racer / Brunetto T-Shirts / Knox / GMD Computrack
...Everyone needs a little Bromance now and then.
1993 Honda CBR900RR
1990 Suzuki GSXR1100
1992 Kawasaki ZX750
1996 Honda F3 Trackbike
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
LRRS/CCS Amateur #514 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / 434racer / Brunetto T-Shirts / Knox / GMD Computrack
LRRS/CCS Amateur #514 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / 434racer / Brunetto T-Shirts / Knox / GMD Computrack
Day 4:
Picked up my new SBS brake pads for the front from Bettencourts
after taking the 2 bolts off for the caliper, remove this hex nut with a 5mm allen wrench. this is the pin that holds the 2 pads in the caliper
install the new pads, and put the pin back in the caliper to hold the pads. if you used your front brakes before taking the caliper out, your pads will probably look close together like this.
very carefully, get a flat head screwdriver between the pads and pry them apart. this will make it easy to get the caliper back on the rotor.
here's the view of the old & new pads
put the 2 caliper bolts back in with a 12mm socket and torque them to 18.1 ft/lbs (this one's for you garage guy)
the old stock Tokico pads
Make sure you pump your front brakes before riding. I broke the new pads in as suggested by Degsy. Go 30MPH down the street, and go to an almost complete stop. Repeat 5-6 times.
After I finished the pads in the driveway, I rode to Degsy's to do the rear brake lines.
Remove the brackets holding the line to the swingarm with an 8mm socket & take the top cover off the rear brake reservoir.
After loosening the bolt on the caliper with a 12mm socket, drain the old brake fluid into a pan & pump the rear brake.
Once all the old fluid is gone, remove the 12mm bolt off the brake line at the reservoir & take the line off the bike.
The new brake lines came with new crush washers & 14mm bolts. Make sure to use a new crush washer on both sides of the brake line & then torque the bolts to 16.5 ft/lbs.
Reuse the rubber grommets from the OEM brake lines & install them on the new lines. Install the brackets that hold the lines to the swingarm.
Once everything is bolted back up, fill the rear reservoir with new DOT4 brake fluid and start bleeding rear brake.
once all the air pockets are gone, you're good to go
just FYI but I would recommend pushing the caliper pistons back out without the pads in. Like you said its fine if you are very careful pushing on the new pads but its a good idea to push them out with the old junk pads in or without pads at all.
got one better for you - if you can let the pads sandwich together and sit on one side of pistons, then you can pry from the backside of the pads - at least thats what i can do on my 636 - then no chunks taken out of your pads
nice work jimbo, did you leave some air in the rear line to leave the brake a bit soft? just wondering as i know how you love doing stand-up wheelies and how you always cover your rear brake.
Denno
Yay Jim!!!!!
And THAT one is for Denno... (T1 )
One of the important things if you ask me is to use a toothbrush and brake cleaner to clean the shit out of the caliper pistons before you push them back in. All that grime on the pistons isn't good for the piston seals/orings.
You can use emory paper, alternately.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
last update for this thread. my bike is now ready for that 225 mile ride in NH i''m doing next weekend. Got my new A* boots and SPIDI Penta gloves, and now it's time for a new(er) tire. My front tire was done, so swapped it out for another one with better tread.
Old vs New - Michelin Pilot Power 120 tire (non 2CT)
took the front wheel off and had Boston Moto mount the tire for me. thanks again guys
the tire wasnt new, but was very slippery on the ride home form NHMS. Took a good day of riding for it to feel sticky again. Thanks everyone for their comments & feedback on this thread.
your pictures = borked
David King | ASRA/CCS/WERA SE EX #484
"Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both."-Benjamin Franklin
pics worked for me!