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'02 Ducati 998, '08 Ducati HyperMotard 1100S, '14 Subaru XV Crosstrek
Possibly easier cheat would be to crack the bolt to the line off the master. But just have spare crush washers on hand in case it won't seal back up.
When disassembled, are you able to see the seat for the ring? What if you put the lever back on, and give it a slow push all the way in? Then maybe it won't spring back out as far?
When I click the picture to expand, it looks like it has some dark photo effect filter (e.g. instagram) on it. But the photo is normal in the thumbnail. That just me?
Last edited by aldend123; 10-03-16 at 10:57 AM. Reason: Thought someone was suggesting removing the line from the slave. Think I misunderstood.
nedirtriders.com
curious to know how the snap ring seats without the seal and plunger installed. that would be an easy way to test the snap ring position and fit without pushing all the parts in farther.
Beta 200RR
Don't disconnect the line, it's a closed system (or was until this fuckery). Unbolt the slave from the side of the motor so the pushrod isn't pushing against you.
Cliff's Cycles KTM
NETRA enduro B-vet
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I think I misunderstood what was being suggested. Loosening the slave from the bike makes more sense.
nedirtriders.com
It stopped being a closed system when he pulled the internals of the master cylinder apart to replace them. He will need to bleed the system when he is finished no matter what he does and if he can avoid blowing the piston in his slave cylinder out past the snap ring that might save him a little bit of a headache as well.
I suggest jack oil or tractor oil if you can buy a small quantity
I think Tractor oil has more anti corrosion but both are kind to seals
0wt suspension oil would be great too
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