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Howdy folks.
Funny story, I usually don't use the horn. I don't think to use it, and by the time I find the damn button its already too late. Today however, some crazy minivan is trying to pull out, I *know* they aren't going to see me, I go to press the horn and nothing! I end up swerving around 'em cursing. Park and try the horn, nothing. It worked fine for inspection in May. Can someone give me some horn maintenance 101? Not sure where to start.
If this has been covered somewhere else, please post linky, thank you much![]()
Ehhh... Just use your throttle and your finger...
LRRS/CCS Amateur #514 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / 434racer / Brunetto T-Shirts / Knox / GMD Computrack
but my SV makes no noise
but the new yosh can I bought for it will change that soon![]()
do you leave the bike out in the rain?
2004 C32 AMG modded
2005 Ducati 749 Termignoni Exhaust, Sargent Seat, Performance GP Tail, DP Rearsets, Carbon Stuff
2006 CBR600 F4i Hindle Titanium High-Mount, Flushmounts, Lowered, Hotbodies Undertail, Smoked DB SOLD
same issue here...I started by buying a new horn off ebay and wired it up in place of my old one, turned on bike and nothing....now I plan on buying the handlebar controls with the horn button in it, plug that in and if it doesn't work I'll just sit there and go WTF COCK MF etc...
take the control assy apart and spray the contacts with......take a guess......contact cleaner (just be careful not to get it everywhere).
Put a dab of dielectric grease and BAM!...done.
To elaborate on what bergs said, problems with failed electrical accessories boils down to one of two issues:
a) the accessory is broke.
b) the accessory isn't getting it's 12V power from the bike
With something really simple (like a horn or non-HID light), you can often pull the accessory from the bike and touch the leads either to your bike's battery or to your car's battery. If the accessory powers up and works, then the issue is the circuit that should be supplying power on the bike; if it doesn't, it's probably the accessory (just make sure you're actually getting a good connection and the battery you're using has good juice, i.e. you can still start the vehicle).
If the circuit isn't working, then it's usually either a switch (as bergs suggested, cleaning the contacts and applying some dielectric grease for weather resistance will often help), a fuse, or wiring. The first two are generally a lot easier to solve than the last, unless there's an obvious cut wire.
obtain a multimeter, or befriend someone that possesses one. disconnect the horn & connect the multimeter using one of the following scenarios:
1. two wires run to the horn: connect the multimeter between both leads.
2. one wire runs to horn: connect multimeter between lead and frame (ground) of bike.
once you're hooked up, check for approximately 12v when the horn button is pressed.
multimeter shows 10-12v: horn is defective, replace.
multimeter shows between 1-9v: wiring/switch is corroded/damaged. follow previously posted suggestion for repair of switch, and check all wiring. to eliminate switch from scenario, disconnect switch and short (connect) both leads going to it.
multimeter shows 0v: wire is cut, switch is completely broken, or you don't know how to use a multimeter.
if you need help, i've been known to travel with a multimeter and diagnose electrical problems upon request.
Make it to Bike night some Tuesday, I'll pack a multi meter and with the amount of *cough* talent that is there I am sure we can atleast figure out what is wrong with it if not fix it.
Doug
hmm ok, thanks for those helpful tips. Sheppo- not a bad idea, if I can make it to the next bike night I'll PM you.
Obtaining a multimeter is great idea--the $40 or so I paid for mine is definitely one of the higher bang-for-the-buck tool purchases I've made, perhaps behind only my breaker bar and ratchet handles--but if you have a 12v test light that you can hook up in place of the horn, that would be another option for testing the circuit. Nice, bright light = defective horn. Dim light = defective circuit (i.e. more than 1 but less than 12 volts). No light = broken circuit.