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Repacking aftermarket exhaust

  1. #1
    100 X slower than Gerard scootertrash's Avatar
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    Repacking aftermarket exhaust

    I have a D&D carbon fiber exhaust canister on my ZX9R. The bike only had a few thousand miles when I bought it, and it came with the D&D. I've put over 50k miles on the bike since then, and it's getting a little loud, so I figured repacking the exhaust would be a good winter project. I did a little research online and found good feedback on the Two Brothers universal repack kit, so I ordered it. What I received was a sheet of steel wool (at least that is what it looks like) which is about 11"x17" and about one-quarter inch thick. I just drilled my exhaust canister and took it apart. What was inside was a tube of very dense and thick fiberglass. It is a tube of fiberglass about 1 to 1-1/2 inch thick, so it is about 4 -5 times as thick as the replacement kit I ordered.
    Anyone have experience with repacking a carbon fiber canister? Is that skimpy 1/4 inch replacement packing going to be good enough, or should I buy a couple more "kits" so I can wrap it around a few times? Or should I buy a different type of packing material? It is such a difference in thickness, I worry that it will be too loud.

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  2. #2
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    Re: Repacking aftermarket exhaust

    The extra space in the canister (assuming there is not a ton) helps absorb the sound actually. Part of the reason the D&D is so loud is because they pack so much shit in their that it doesn't even absorb the sound.
    I think you will be fine if you use the packing they gave in the kit.

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  3. #3
    Lifer Kurlon's Avatar
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    Re: Repacking aftermarket exhaust

    You just wrap multiple layers on to build up the packing.

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  4. #4
    Why Lie? It Was Me.... HO-HUM-R1's Avatar
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    Re: Repacking aftermarket exhaust

    I think you will find that just the metal mesh material is going to leave too much space betwwen the baffle and the outer can. Most packing kits use a metal mesh and then wrap that with the fiberglass paking material until you fill the can.. Leaving all that empty space in the can will not only make it sound horrible and hollow but will also keep too much heat inside the can and on a carbon fiber exhaust it could burn it. Most shops have the fiberglass packing material, I would suggest wrapping the baffle with the metal mesh. and then wrapping it with the glass packing until it takes up the air in the can.

    How tight you pack in the glass material will determine how loud the exhaust is when you're done. Packing it faairly loosely will be louder and raspier, tighter will be deeper and smoother..

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    2006 Yamaha R1, Graves Full Exhaust, BST Carbon Fiber Wheels, K&N Air Filter, EGR Blockoffs, Factory Pro Velocity Stacks, Power Commander 5, Stealth 520 Conversion -1/+1, FP levers, Ohlins shock, Ohlins fg327 forks, Ohlins steering damper, Sato racing rearsets, Goodridge SS shadow brakelines, EBC Extreme pads, Braking SK wave rotors F&R. few other appearance mods.

  5. #5
    Why Lie? It Was Me.... HO-HUM-R1's Avatar
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    Re: Repacking aftermarket exhaust


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    2006 Yamaha R1, Graves Full Exhaust, BST Carbon Fiber Wheels, K&N Air Filter, EGR Blockoffs, Factory Pro Velocity Stacks, Power Commander 5, Stealth 520 Conversion -1/+1, FP levers, Ohlins shock, Ohlins fg327 forks, Ohlins steering damper, Sato racing rearsets, Goodridge SS shadow brakelines, EBC Extreme pads, Braking SK wave rotors F&R. few other appearance mods.

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