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I posted something similar to this on svrider, but I sometimes question the knowledge over there:
I bought my '03 SV last year thinking the suspension was well sorted by the previous owner, and after riding it for a while, have decided that it is not. I posted about this here last year, and decided to switch to a Penske shock, but I still haven't swapped it. Will be doing that one of the next few weekends. Now I'm worried about the front end.
The setup:
Front- .90 kg/mm springs, RT emulators (unsure on emulator spring setup), damper rods drilled per RaceTech method (extra holes), heavier oil (unsure what weight PO used).
Rear- zx10 shock, an odd year, fits ok, was not revalved. I know it needs to go, will be putting the Penske on soon with a 525 lb spring.
The symptoms-
The front end is harsh, and by the looks of the bug splatter on the tubes it appears that I am not getting full travel. Big bumps hurt, and bumps mid-corner are very unsettling and cause the front wheel to feel as if it is skipping to the outside of the corner. It is NOT confidence inspiring by any means.
The rear is also harsh, and catapults me going over big bumps. I have a Penske double clicker ready to go to replace the zx10 shock, but havent had the chance to do the swap yet.
Questions
What is a good resource I can use to try and tune the front end before I consider altering the internals? Is there a common suspension tuning "bible" that someone can recommend? Maybe ask PK for help?
Are Traxxion rods/stockers drilled per the Zoran method that much superior to stockers drilled per RaceTech? The front feels bad as is.
Hitting mid corner bumps is terrifying right now, I'd like to change that and get my confidence back. I don't feel super comfortable riding it hard at the moment.
PS I weigh about 195
Last edited by Petorius; 05-07-13 at 06:07 PM.
How about tthe motorcycle suspension bible... http://www.amazon.com/Techs-Motorcyc...cle+suspension
I haven't read it, but understand there may be some members who have a copy.
I don't know anything about the SV. Is there a way to set the preload on the front? If yes have you adjusted for static sag?
Yes. PK could help.
I was going to point out that RT writes a book that is literally called the suspension bible. But Jason beat me to it.
I have it. I read most of it. I understand about 10% of it, despite calling myself an inganeer. Worse, I have the tools, expertise, and assistant to do a half-ass-job of implementing nearly none of it.
I plan to just hand PK some money when at the track in a few weeks. Mostly 'cause Jason told me to.
I have a V-Strom, not an SV. But they are similar. I agree that it sounds like your preload is jacked way too high. I had the opposite problem. But then I weigh a lot. I stepped up to 0.95 springs and emulators and was underwhelmed at the performance improvement.. until I actually got a helper to help me measure and set the sag. Wifey (aka helper) was not terribly interested in helping, so we only did a cursory job of it. But wow! What a difference!
I recently upgraded the rear damper. I have not fiddled with clickers much. But overall I think the forks effected handling more; the rear shock mostly effected ride.
Take the time to get it right.. you'll be glad you did.
http://www.sonicsprings.com
^ this guy has a spring rate calculator on his site, and is will respected on svrider.
2nd gen oil weight standard is 15w.
It's my suspicion that the thing feels so wonky because its unbalanced. I have no idea what the stock zx10 rate is, and what the linkage geometry of the 2 different bikes does to it.
I do not understand why people slap those things in there and expect miracles. Sure it's a "better" shock, but it was built for something totally different.
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Close your eyes, look deep in your soul, step outside yourself and let your mind go.
I have the sonics too. If you buy his springs, read the docs he shoves in the box with them. His way is right, the internets are wrong. Ask me how I know..
With those springs at your weight (which sound like they're in the ballpark), I'd say your compression is way too stiff. Either reduce fluid height, go to a lower weight or back off on the compression settings.
-Pete LRRS/CCS #81 - ECK Racing, TonysTrackDays
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The Garage: '03 Tuono | '06 SV650
This was simply based on the fact that after listening to PK talk when John invited him to the suspension part of the ARC class I was about to hand him money even knowing that there was no effing adjustments on my bike (the one button you press to adjust the rear preload doesn't count when the maximum setting is too soft (given my "fun size")).
Yep. Could be compression as well. No doubt.
What I've read (I know nothing) indicates to start with getting the preload right by setting static sag.
The other thing I've read is adjust one thing at a time. Ride. See how it feels. Adjusting everything and expecting to know how to fix it afterwards is reserved for people like PK.
I'd go 10w with the RT emulators, make sure your holes are drilled higher than they call for in your rods (the lower hole is 80% covered by the inner bushing thing making it useless if it is anything like the Wee internals), run a bit lighter springs on the RT's, etc.
It's cheap and easy to try things for yourself. Just buy a bunch of fork oil and go to town.
Also, verify your fork oil height. Easy to make a gauge out of some fuel line, a syringe and a metal rod/long drill bit.
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2020 BMW R1250GS Adventure Exclusive
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
I used a turkey baster with some tape wrapped around it at the appropriate depth.
Does the fork oil make the turkey taste funny?
I was buying some other stuff. http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-...fork+oil+level
This, however, doesn't mean that I got my level correct. The manual gives me a level before putting in the spring. Since the spring I'm putting in now has more volume than the one that I took out, I used slightly less than the recommended amount of oil.