School me on bike tools

[NH848]

I'd like to start doing more "basic" maintenance on my bike (Duc 848). Seeking guidance on 1) which tools I should focus on first and 2) any particular brands you guys like.

Tools I have:
- basic set of allens, socket, etc. - problem is it's a pain to get into those hard to reach areas
- pit bull front and rear stands - can get tires off ground but don't have anything to support swing arm
- axle tool

What I know I need:
- torque wrench; you guys recommend digital? Brand?
- do you guys use t-handle hex or allen wrenches for getting into hard to reach places?

Many thanks in advance.

[Chippertheripper]

Get a set each of 1/4" drive and 3/8" drive Hex bits for ratchets. They might not solve your clearance probs, but you can at least get them on a torque wrench.
T handle hex with the spinny shaft sleeves are the tits, but I can't have nice things like that.
A cheap set of Jack stands (if you have rearsets on the bike) are great for supporting the bike if you need to pull the swing arm.

[RandyO]

not sure the protocol for European bikes, but all Asian bikes use JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) for those screws that look like Phillips

someone please correct me if I am wrong, you can get away with using a JIS on a Phillips screw, but not vice versa as Phillips is actually designed to cam out and damage the fastener first

[butcher bergs]

As far as brands, since your frequency of use will be low, the tools found at Lowe's, HD, Autozone, etc will suit your needs just fine. I own several items from the places I mention, many of which have taken a beating, most have surpassed 10yrs of service. The failures have been legitimate as they are throw away tools and were treated as such.

A torque wrench is a tool used for beyond what I would consider "basic" maintenance so it begs the question, what are you considering "basic"? Personally I do not trust electronics in this application so I would recommend a good ol' fashioned click wrench.

As far as hex keys, minimum of two sets.... t-handle and right angle, always ball end

[Petorius]

Sounds like you have the basics covered. Buy new stuff as you need it.

+1 to everything Chip said. You can also hang the bike from the rafters with some ratchet straps under the subframe instead of using jackstands.

I can't think of a any "basic maintenance" applications for it, but i have been saved by my Dremel many many times. Other things that don't have obvious basic maintenance applications, but I end up using a lot, unexpectedly: MityVac, cheap vice, big hammer, needle nose pliers, soldering iron, spare lengths of vinyl tubing.

[number9]

I like using Craftsman tools as the regular hand tools (sockets, wrenches etc.) have a lifetime warranty and you don't need receipts. If you break something, you just take it back and they give you a new one. This doesn't apply to power tools or air tools, though, for that you only get the normal warranty.

[Kurlon]

On Ducati fasteners, where possible don't use ball end Allen keys, that's just asking for them to round out. If you think you'll have to, see if there is something Ducati expects you to remove first to get more access.

On JIS screws, in a pinch drywall bits are a usable substitute for a proper JIS screwdriver. That said you can get a nice 5 piece JIS screwdriver set off Amazon for short money so why not add it to the toolbox?

[nhbubba]

T-handles are great for working fasteners quickly, not necessarily for working tight spaces.
I would make sure you have everything covered in sockets for 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2" drive, plus all the needed extensions, u-joints and ratchets. Add a torque wrench and you can torque anything you have a socket for. Add a hand ratchet and it is almost as effective as a t-handle.

T-handles are what I'm adding to my tool box these days. They are so useful. I started with allen/hex drivers. I now have 2 metric sets; one for home and one for the track. Recently I bought a set of metric socket wrench t-handles. So nice to not have to futz with removing a socket from the ratchet/driver and attach another. Just pick up the t-handle and go. No good for heavily torqued fasteners or torquing anything though.

I 2nd what Randy points out about JIS drivers. I bought the JIS drivers and now use them on just about all "cross" type screws, philips or JIS. If it is philips, the JIS driver works. If it is JIS, the JIS driver doesn't destroy the head like a philips driver will. Philips drivers now have no place in my toolbox.

A flexy magnet on a stick is handy as hell when you drop that screw or bolt.
Also a nice drop light. Go LED nowadays.
I picked up some of those divided plastic hobby boxes with the snap top. Parts go into that as I disassemble. This gives me a fighting chance of getting the right fastener back in the right spot on re-assembly.

[RandyO]

a hand impact driver is a must in any tool box, it's my go to tool on any fastener that even has a remote possibility of being seized

[imstuner]

I like Bondhus for Allen heads and it puts my Snap-On Allen heads to shame.

[aldend123]

Get the basics, then learn what you need based on the bike and buy as-needed. Sometimes it's just personal preference. One person might prefer T-handles, while another wants a ratchet. Different sized extensions (or stack of) can help get in the right spot. A U-joint for a ratchet might help tricky spots, though they aren't the most fun to use. Does the 848 really have a lot of difficult spots?

For occasional home use, pretty much any brand is fine. Quality considerations are finer tolerances for better fit (less chance of rounding), better ratcheting engagement, and maybe nice touches like easy to read large-print sizes. I'm not convinced there's too much difference between any of the store brands. The pro brands are generally all a league above, but often cost more than twice as much.

IMO, a torque wrench isn't necessary for most stuff. But that's pretty controversial. There's usually two camps: torque wrench on everything, and those who only get it out for headbolts (or other stretch bolts), and high torque applications like drive sprocket nut or rear wheel bolt. The catch to not using one is that there is a learning curve. And it often results in at least a few striped threads, broken bolts, or bolts that backed out. I once chewed through some threads over torquing a cam cover bolt WITH a torque wrench because I misread the setting indicator and set it just one click too high. Super soft aluminum, but wouldn't have happened if I was doing it by hand

[MattR302]

I picked up some of those divided plastic hobby boxes with the snap top. Parts go into that as I disassemble. This gives me a fighting chance of getting the right fastener back in the right spot on re-assembly.

I use these as well. Harbor Freight has them cheap. 18 Compartment Small Storage Container
I label each bin with a sharpie, #1-18 or whatever. Then on a piece of paper I tape to the inside of the lid, I'll write #1=mirror bolts, #2=fairing screws, #3=tank screws, etc. Also helps with reassembly order.
Also, take pictures as you go. That way, when you're reassembling days/weeks/months later, you can go back and check things like how cables were routed, or where connectors plug in. You can also make masking tape labels for both mating ends of connectors or hoses.

I like Bondhus for Allen heads and it puts my Snap-On Allen heads to shame.

At work, we've switched to Wera Hex Plus drivers for many of our socket head screws. The profile helps reduce stripping out the heads of the screws. Hex-Plus: Wera

[number9]

IMO, a torque wrench isn't necessary for most stuff. But that's pretty controversial. There's usually two camps: torque wrench on everything, and those who only get it out for headbolts (or other stretch bolts), and high torque applications like drive sprocket nut or rear wheel bolt. The catch to not using one is that there is a learning curve. And it often results in at least a few striped threads, broken bolts, or bolts that backed out. I once chewed through some threads over torquing a cam cover bolt WITH a torque wrench because I misread the setting indicator and set it just one click too high. Super soft aluminum, but wouldn't have happened if I was doing it by hand

I use a torque wrench on anything that the factory supplies a torque setting for. I'm not a materials engineer, but I know a few people that are. There's a reason that fasteners have torque specifications and that those specs aren't merely "as little so it doesn't fall out" nor "as tight as you can fucking get it".

This is a great book about race car preparation when it comes to fasteners. It all applies to bikes, too.

[aldend123]

There's a reason that fasteners have torque specifications and that those specs aren't merely "as little so it doesn't fall out" nor "as tight as you can fucking get it".

Right, it's in the middle. It's just tight, not overtightened. Pretty sure most things have a factory spec if you can get the service manual.

So we know which camp you're in. I once watched the owner of a trucking company hand tighten 20-something oil pan bolts. I checked a handful with a torque wrench. They were all dead on. He also seemed kind of annoyed that I was checking, and told me they'd all be to spec.