Shim under bucket valve adjustment ?s

[03steve636]

Anyone one here have anyexperience in doing valve adjustments? I have an 03 636 with 18k and it is very noisy. I would have the dealer do it but have heard too many rumors on how they do valve adjustments. (drive it in, rev a few times, park in corner and consider it done). I just want to know that it was actually done properly without shortcuts. I also want to do the cam chain tensioner at the same time.

[benVFR]

If you're that worried about the dealer tell them you want a complete report of what all the tolerance were before & after they made their adjustments.

If they would go so far as to give you fake documentation on top of not doing the work they are obviously extremely shady & you would want to call Kawasaki or something to complain.

Also you can put paint dots or something on the head bolts to see whether or not they've actually opened the bike.

I think the main thing people worry about with dealers is whether or not they check the valves at the 600 mile inspection... not whether or not they do it at 12,000 or 16,000 miles when you bring the bike in and ask them to do it.

[ChicknStripEatr]

I've done the valves in my kawi twice (not that hard, just time consuming). Two best tips I can give you: 1st pick up the Haynes repair manual on Amazon, usually pretty cheap there, they word it so the average Joe can do the most complex jobs. And secondly, don't forget to make a HIGHLY VISIBLE mark on your timing chain and correspond those marks to some marks you make on the cam shafts.

As I side note, I had my first valve job done by a dealer, didn't notice a single difference in performance. When I did them myself the throttle response was a LOT peppier. To add to your list of nightmare stories about dealers.

Oh, and my Kawi has had problems in the past with the Cam Chain Tensioner, that might be the reason for your noise, the original spring that came from the factory was too weak. The noise came from right side of the bike just under the gas tank, if that helps at all.

[Tricky Mike]

Fun stuff...
Actually, it's not too bad. Way too much to describe here, though...
If you don't already have it, go out and get the factory service manual. If this is going to be a DIY project you'll most certainly need it. Get the real deal factory manual if you can... I haven't liked many of the Haynes or Clymer manuals I've seen... especially not when compared side by side with the factoy manual. Buying both ain't such a bad thing. Manuals are relatively cheap and can usually be found used (that's how I buy mine).
If you have any reason to suspect the CCT and it's making noise, I'd investigate thoroughly ASAP. If that chain jumps a tooth or three it's gonna do a real number on your top end (obviously).

[03steve636]

thanks for the info guys. im thinking the cct is bad. really noisy. i know kawis are noisy normaly but it sounds really loud to me. I will probably mark some head bolts and have the dealer do both the cct and adjustment. Any ideas on what it should cost me?

[ChicknStripEatr]

Any ideas on what it should cost me?

IMO if you take the time to remove everything to get to the head bolts most of the manual labor is done. Why not continue on to the valves? You have to check to see if your valves are in spec before you remove the cam shaft anyway. If you feel that you can get to the head bolts you definately have the knowledge to do the valve job or replace the CCT. Pick up the manual, they describe everything in great detail.

[The Snowman]

thanks for the info guys. im thinking the cct is bad. really noisy. i know kawis are noisy normaly but it sounds really loud to me. I will probably mark some head bolts and have the dealer do both the cct and adjustment. Any ideas on what it should cost me?

Head to GMD Computrack in Bellingham and have Peter's crew do it. That's where my bike is right now having that and a few other items done.

Not sure what the cost, it'd be by the hour, but he gives NESR members 10% off arts & labor. Plus, you get to chat it up with him about everything on 2 wheels.

[RandyO]

IMO if you take the time to remove everything to get to the head bolts most of the manual labor is done. Why not continue on to the valves? You have to check to see if your valves are in spec before you remove the cam shaft anyway. If you feel that you can get to the head bolts you definately have the knowledge to do the valve job or replace the CCT. Pick up the manual, they describe everything in great detail.

when did a simple valve adjustment become a full blown "valve job"

[ChicknStripEatr]

when did a simple valve adjustment become a full blown "valve job"

When the bike has 18K miles on it. And given the fact that it's a shim under bucket design, the only way to adjust the valves is to replace the shims.

[rebelpacket]

You can "sand" the shims down on fine grit sandpaper and a peice of smooth glass. Its pretty simple. The shim under bucket just means you have to pull a glorified "bucket" off to get at the shims.

[RandyO]

When the bike has 18K miles on it. And given the fact that it's a shim under bucket design, the only way to adjust the valves is to replace the shims.

yes, that's called a valve adjustment

a valve job is when you pull the heads, put in new valves, guides and have new seats cut by a machinist

[ZX-12R]

If you are going to do it your self and don't feel like waiting for new shims to come after you measure them, have a look at this kit. I've posted it before but and it is still a good deal.

HotCams valve shim kits

3 each of every size from 1.20mm to 3.5mm in 0.05mm increments. The kits are available in 9.48 and 7.48mm diameters. It is by far the best price I have ever come across for shims.

[03steve636]

Thanks for all the help guys. I think im taking it over to GMD and have him do it (plus some other things). Have heard really good things about his work and need my suspension set up. Trying track days for the first time this year and want the bike set up good to start off.

[Bgcj5]

WOW that is a very good price for that shim kit. I am going to order it it in the next few days as I need to do my valves also before the season starts. I found a very good write up on it on Kawiforums, I am looking forward to doing mine after reading evreything involved. After all I am about to graduate with an auto tech degree (but hopefully working on bikes instead) so this is right up my alley.

[Bgcj5]

Here is 2 links for a kawi, The 636 should be similar. Calamarichris.com: ZX9R Valve Adjustment, page 1 ZX-6R (2000) routine maintenance

[stoinkythepig]

Just so you know, as the miles pile up, the valve lash gets tighter and the valve noise decreases. If you hear more noise, it's not because the valves need adjustment. Follow the recommended adjustment interval.

The CCT is quite likely automatic. If it's like mine, it gets absurdly noisey just before it adjusts iteself and then it's nice and quiet again.

[bobr]

(drive it in, rev a few times, park in corner and consider it done)

I'll guarantee i've never seen this and over the last 18 years I've worked at a few dealerships. i expect it's exactly as you described it........a rumor.

[nerijusj]

The noise you hear is CCT. You can find lots of usefull info on Kawiforums.com Just do a search.

[SVRACER01]

hey sometimes you can do the shim shuffle. i did the race bike 2 seasons ago and after measuring each shim that came out and needing to adjust just about all of them. i moved some shims around and only had to buy 3

[KB]

I love doing the shime shuffle. It's a good way to pass some time.

KB