Voltage/regulator rectifier??

[FireFly]

HEy everyone, Does anyone know exacty what the voltage/regulator rectifier does on the F4i? How does it work? THanks

[R7]

The rectifier changes the AC current from your bikes stator to DC current. You need DC current to charge the battery. The voltage regulator regulates the power output to a set voltage so you don't fry the battery or electrical system

[Hardcore]

Originally posted by R7
The rectifier changes the AC current from your bikes stator to DC current. You need DC current to charge the battery. The voltage regulator regulates the power output to a set voltage so you don't fry the battery or electrical system

You're more smarterer than you looks!!

[Hardcore]

[

[RandyO]

Originally posted by FireFly
HEy everyone, Does anyone know exacty what the voltage/regulator rectifier does on the F4i? How does it work? THanks

most motorcycles have a magneto type alternator for simplicity, unlike a car alternator that regulated the output by regulating the field strength of the armature. motorcycle RRs regulate the output by shunting the excess back to ground and dissapating the energy as heat... the faster a magneto type alternator spins the higher the output, means the more excess that has to be dissapated as heat.

this is why RRs in some bike fail rather regularly, they overheat the semiconductors inside becaust they just don't get enuf cooling air flowing across the heat sink

[Hardcore]

WOW------you're even morer smarterer than mark!

[FireFly]

How could you check one to see whether or not its fried. IS there a simple way without having to plug it onto a bike??

[joberly]

If you have your shop manual, it will tell you what the current should be accross the terminals in the RR, and you can test with a multimeter.

[Hardcore]

Originally posted by joberly
If you have your shop manual, it will tell you what the current should be accross the terminals in the RR, and you can test with a multimeter.

ok------you can join the more smarter club too!

[joberly]

[Awesome]

Have it connected to the bike and check the charge at the terminals. It should be around 14-14.1 or so. If it's around 12 then it's probably junk. I think mine junked out. Leaves me with no bike for Daytona. Unless I go steal Chad's tonight.

[Hardcore]

ok--just for that you're OUTTA the more smarter club!!!

[bigred875]

Originally posted by hessogood
Have it connected to the bike and check the charge at the terminals. It should be around 14-14.1 or so. If it's around 12 then it's probably junk. I think mine junked out. Leaves me with no bike for Daytona. Unless I go steal Chad's tonight.

most proably...i concur...my brothers bike just went through this...it was only making 12ish..replaced it and it was over 14

[RandyO]

be sure to check the voltage after the bike is completely warmed up, when my RR went south, it checked out fine cold, once warmed up, it was bad

[R7]

Originally posted by hardcore
You're more smarterer than you looks!!

Yeah well if I don't look smart, what the fuck do you look like!!!
Shut up PUSSY

I just went through all that crap with my KTM Motaaaahd so it's kinda fresh in me mind. A normal bike should test and hold 14.0-14.3 volts.
My KTM isn't normal and tests 14.9 with no lights on and goes down to and stays at 12.6 with the lights on.

[SVRACER01]

dont forget to check the diodes

[FireFly]

Are the diodes inside the cooling fin portion of the regulator/rectifier??
If they are, how can you get to them without damageing the unit?

[Hardcore]

Originally posted by R7
[I just went through all that crap with my KTM Motaaaahd so it's kinda fresh in me mind. A normal bike should test and hold 14.0-14.3 volts.
My KTM isn't normal and tests 14.9 with no lights on and goes down to and stays at 12.6 with the lights on. [/B]

NO FUCKIN"MOTAHHHHHHD IS NORMAL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ZX-12R]

Originally posted by FireFly
Are the diodes inside the cooling fin portion of the regulator/rectifier??
If they are, how can you get to them without damageing the unit?

The diodes are the rectifier. They allow current to flow in one direction but block it in the other. When hooked up properly, they block the negative half of the AC waveform coming from your alternator. If you look through your shop manual, they will tell you what part of your wiring harness to unhook in order to get access to them. It will have you check a combination of points with a multimeter to verify that the diodes in the rectifier are not shot.

What symptoms are you experiencing that leads you to believe your R/R is acting up?

[Hardcore]

ok--you can be in the more smarter club tooo---but that's it--it's gettin too fuller!

[ZX-12R]

Noice!

[FireFly]

I'm not havin any problems, I just wanted to know how to check. I got an extra Regulator/rectifier for an f4i that appears to be in great shape but looks don't mean much with this type of part. I just wanted to know how to test this R/R without puting it on my bike. Is there a way without having to hook it up to the bike?

[ZX-12R]

You will have to figure out the pinout of the R/R and it will be very easy to check the diodes in it. Checking its voltage regulation is more difficult without having it connected to the bike. You would have to supply the R/R with 20V or more and check the output to make sure it is in the range specified in your shop manual. You normally check its regulation with it properly hooked up and the engine running at 4K RPMs.

[Hardcore]

Originally posted by FireFly
I'm not havin any problems, I just wanted to know how to check. I got an extra Regulator/rectifier for an f4i that appears to be in great shape but looks don't mean much with this type of part. I just wanted to know how to test this R/R without puting it on my bike. Is there a way without having to hook it up to the bike?

fuckin' NO dickhead--read the posts!!

[FireFly]

ThE BAll BuSTER RETurns!!!!!