Looking for a track ready motard bike

[lrrs428]

I did not blow up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I dropped 19's all weekend on it where is this coming from?

You really asked Clark about being reliable? He blew his up on the last weekend.

[lrrs428]

And that was two years ago Chip

Not to mention shooting the rod through the bottom of the thing and shopping for cases ALL of last year.

[nhbubba]

For the price of a nice tard, you can get a decent sv, AND a dirty with a plate, as suggested above.

For comparison, I dragged home two new additions to my garage this year: a retired SV650 racebike with some goodies and a used dual-sport. Total outlay for the bikes themselves was under $3k. Both need/needed some wear items and TLC. But I would be shocked if a comparably priced 'tard did not need the same or more.

You could probably get a real dirty only 2-stroke for less than what I paid for the dual-sport. I wanted something platable.

The catch (if you see it that way) is an SV at that price is going to have a non-streetable title. So you will be restricted to track only. Although that could be a good thing.

On the other hand, there are several DRZ400SMs and/or SM'ed DRZs on CL right now. Seems like the asking price is $3500-4k, only a bit ahead of my outlay. I am not sure they would qualify as "track ready" and you know they'll need wear items. These probably qualify as "commuters" in your description and do not have any of the upgrades you list. Nor do they have off-road bits. Although my research shows the off-road bits are but a few fleabay clicks away.

[Tricky Mike]

If you want a track weapon, you should be ignoring DRZs completely.

[nhbubba]

That's what I've been told. I offered up my DRZ findings because that's what I've been looking at and figured the pricing is an interesting reference. My impression is that a real track 'weapon' will cost significantly more. This further reinforces the idea of a cheap track toy (ie SV, maybe EX) and a dirty toy on the side for the OP's requirements.

DRZs also seem easy to convert from track/SM to dirt use. I'm not sure if that is universal for all SMs.

[Point37]

http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/...0R-some-extras

[Ductard]

The catch (if you see it that way) is an SV at that price is going to have a non-streetable title. So you will be restricted to track only. Although that could be a good thing.

I've got a streetbike already so I'm less concerned whether or not it's streetable. Mostly something I can crash at the track without breaking the bank.

I can do some light tinkering on a bike but I'm nowhere near having the time or ability to do rebuilds on my own, so I'm having some second thoughts about tracking a 'tard.

Anybody have any thoughts on how often and how much $ I'd be looking at for rebuilds, etc. with a motard? I'm guessing a pure motocross bike like a CRF or a YZF would be on the higher side and something like an SMR or a DRZ would be a little more reasonable.

Also, keep in mind that at the beginning of the thread I said this past season was my first time on a track, so I'm not too concerned about having a bike that's super-competitive.

[nhbubba]

Mostly something I can crash at the track without breaking the bank.

...

...I'm not too concerned about having a bike that's super-competitive.

I really can't help but think you are looking for an SV or at least something similar. Maybe it's because I adore mine. Maybe not.

I asked the class some of the same questions you are, albeit from a very different angle. The overwhelming answer was: just go buy a fucking SV already. I did. And I'm glad I did.

I crashed twice at track days at NHMS this year. (Yeah, yeah, I know. ) I have not actually added up the total expense from damage, but I am sure it is less than $300 all out.

The 2nd crash was a low-side in T6. Everything straightened with liberal use of pliers and a hammer except the rearset foot peg. Miles from S&C sold me one for like $40 or something. He had a box of them next to the register. I missed the remainder of the session I crashed in, but was on track at the start of the next one. Bike ran like a top for the balance of the day.

As far as maintenance goes.. it's a fucking SV. You do oil and maybe check the valves now and then. The carbs on the 1st gen are pretty easy to work with. Even swapping coolant is easy. Especially on a track prep'ed (read: stripped down) 1st gen like mine.

Problems I have so far include false neutrals every now and then going into T11 if I get candy ass with the shifter. And every now and then the starter is a little wonky. Other than that I just keep riding crashing it and it just keeps asking for more.

[Manny]

If you want a track weapon, you should be ignoring DRZs completely.

Common now tricky. Don't be a hater!

[Manny]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adLWPz3Likw

[Ductard]

The 2nd crash was a low-side in T6.

ha, I lowsided in T6 too. Is there a club for us to join?

What is it about SV's? I know they're v-twin, relatively cheap / abundant, but that's the bike everybody talks about. There's not even a close second.

[csmutty]

I did not blow up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I dropped 19's all weekend on it where is this coming from?

I was going off of that which was just posted on your fb. Guess that was just an old pic of the carnage from 2 or 3 years ago.

[Chippertheripper]

I've got a streetbike already so I'm less concerned whether or not it's streetable. Mostly something I can crash at the track without breaking the bank.

I can do some light tinkering on a bike but I'm nowhere near having the time or ability to do rebuilds on my own, so I'm having some second thoughts about tracking a 'tard.

Anybody have any thoughts on how often and how much $ I'd be looking at for rebuilds, etc. with a motard? I'm guessing a pure motocross bike like a CRF or a YZF would be on the higher side and something like an SMR or a DRZ would be a little more reasonable.

Also, keep in mind that at the beginning of the thread I said this past season was my first time on a track, so I'm not too concerned about having a bike that's super-competitive.

At a noobs pace, as long as the valves stay in spec, once every off season for peace of mind. If you wait for something bad to happen it's going to be CONSIDERABLY more expensive.
If you build it right the first time (i'm talking about a build for reliability as opposed to power) it should be relatively cheap <$500 a rebuild after that. Depending upon LOTS of different things, but that's an average. Could be cheaper if you're just doing bearings and rings, could be more when it's time for a new piston and rod.

I also think it all comes out in the wash, comparatively. Ride a 600, spend the same money on tires as you would on a tards' upkeep. It's an expensive sport . It's manageable until you get to a certain level as an expert RACER, and them it gets considerably more expensive for smaller gains . If you have little aspiration towards that, and want to just be a fast td guy, or a better rider in general, you can all but forget the big tire budgets, and big $ suspension components, and totally have a blast and learn on ANY machine. If the latter is the case, I'd say the cheaper and smaller the better. Because even though you might get smoked on the straights, zipping around on the brakes or inside/outside depending on the passing restrictions is boss.

[nhbubba]

..they're v-twin, relatively cheap / abundant..

That's why. That's why I bought mine anyway.

Plenty of other options.

EX500's, although those have limited racing avenues now that the LRRS class is going away.
Older 600's, but those are relatively hard on tires and reportedly don't crash quite as well.
Hawks, IIRC these make less power and are not as common as the SV. (Although a fine, neat choice IMO.)

[Ductard]

Hmmm....hard to decide. Here's a question - what tracks are there in the Northeast that are good for a motard? - I'm in Boston specifically.

I'm asking because this year I mostly rode Loudon on some Friday's, I rode NJMP Thunderbolt but I don't know if I'd want to take a motard there, and I've never been to NYST (and I've heard some guys say they feel a little uncomfortable riding there).

I don't want to take a bunch of Fridays off to go ride Loudon (I think Saturday and Sundays are usually races?) so if that's the only place that most people really like riding motards that might tip the scale torwards an SV.

[union]

You can go race at Boxshop in Maine. Its a supermoto track.

[Chippertheripper]

Nyst is a turd friendly track. The front straight is a bit longer, but the rest of the place has tard heaven written all over it.

[Tricky Mike]

Common now tricky. Don't be a hater!

Yours is the one exception.

[xrocket21]

You might kill yourself with that stunt. Dispersed flour works as a fuel/air style explosive, google it, it's crazy the boom you can make with that stuff.

Protip: nondairy creamer

yes, nondairy creamer is extremely flammable when atomized!

[Ductard]

Protip: nondairy creamer

yes, nondairy creamer is extremely flammable when atomized!

True dat:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWcR5nv1N8I

[Manny]

Wirelessly posted

Common now tricky. Don't be a hater!

Yours is the one exception.

Better.

[Ductard]

Ok, so another question for the group - So the KBB motorcycle values are nowhere near what people are asking for their motards - BTW I'm not surprised by that, because the value would be for just the dirt bike, not all the work that's done.

So is there a better way of figuring out what a motard is worth than researching all the work that's been done to it, putting a big discount on that number, and adding it to the cost of the base dirt bike? I'm getting a feel for it just by looking at craigslist, but any advice here would be helpful. Not expecting anybody to have a magic formula.

[Kurlon]

As you stated, it's a dirt bike with a bunch of work done to it. So price the dirtbike portion according to it's condition, then roll in the mods from there.

http://www.motostrano.com/Supermoto-...its-s/1820.htm gives you an idea of what the costs can be for this stuff new.

[Chippertheripper]

Go to smj and look at the classifieds. That'll give you an idea of what the market is.
Figure $3k north, depending on year/make/model/mods. Just go buy trickys, you won't find anything remotely as good for as cheap.
Kbb, nada, and craigslist are worthless as pricing guides.

[nhbubba]

I didn't exactly have incredible patience in my shopping, but I have looked on and off for quite a while at DRZ-SMs. IIRC most regard these as a 'budget' SM as it is all OE hardware. I have never seen a DRZ-SM priced as low as Tricky's KTM. That leads me to believe that his bike is a really good value.