bought the gen2 intake cams today, ill do that along with my valve adjust, rather than wait till later. :shredder:
still need rearsets and a rear shock, tach, and im skipping the tank/bodywork till i get back from my deployment i think...
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bought the gen2 intake cams today, ill do that along with my valve adjust, rather than wait till later. :shredder:
still need rearsets and a rear shock, tach, and im skipping the tank/bodywork till i get back from my deployment i think...
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Shoot me your e mail and ill send over the directions on the swap. The ones I got are idiot proof, very well written.
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I hooked mine up to the kill switch. It was pretty easy, if you lived closer is give you hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by darkduc7a couple reasons. the key was bent to shit. igition was pretty sticky.Quote:
Originally Posted by SVRACER01
and...im fucking retarded when it comes to remembering stuff, like when i forgot my key to my f2 this past summer. drilling out that freaking bulletproof honda gascap before tech and spending 95 bucks on a vortex after was a serious pita.
so, 1.95 for a toggle switch, an a little confusion cutting wires, and 30 bucks for a gas cap online...all i need to remember is the bike, leathers, helmet and boots. :jackie:
I'll look at a wiring diagram and see if i can come up with answer.
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Looks like basically, replace the O/W and O/B wire at the kill switch with the O and R wire from the ignition.
Run R where O/B was
Run O where O/W was
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I almost forgot. You'll need a cam chain tensioner holder to put the tensioners back in. I have a Clymer manual that has the specs to make one. I used a small flathead screwdriver and cut the tip off of it.
Pick up one of these Clymer manuals though. Good to have.
Hey can you mail this idiot the idiot proof idiots guide to the idiotic cam swap.Quote:
Originally Posted by SVRACER01
KB
you caught that too? :spit:Quote:
Originally Posted by KB
oxx, thanks for the info. i pm'd you my email. i also found a writeup for the cam swap on BARF, seems pretty doable for me. the cam tensioner holding tool was news to me, thanks for the heads up...you said a small screwdriver will do the trick?
i had planned on wiring in a toggle switch for my main on/off, but i suppose i could just go to the kill switch like you did. im assuming i'd still have to wire in a 100ohm resistor like i would have for the toggle?
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I don't know about the resister or why you would need one. its just a switch.
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I don't get your joke...Quote:
Originally Posted by KBHey can you mail this idiot the idiot proof idiots guide to the idiotic cam swap.Quote:
Originally Posted by SVRACER01
KB
ok...
rearsets, sliders, tank, tail, cam swap/valve clearances, air box/jetting, done.
all i need is a rear shock. looking for a reasonably priced penske, sprung for a 200lb with gear rider.
gonna have my forks refreshed too.
after that, ill just need some tires to throw on, and its g2g. oh, and i gotta wire up a tach, wire some bolts, and make a bracket for the front end to hold the tach, and make steering stops.
:shredder:
You got quite a bit checked of your list.
There are a couple used penske shocks for sale but they are fir gen2. Gen 1 goes quick.
yessir!Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlief
i wasnt aware there was a difference between the two with penske...?
I'm no expert but I'm thinking there is. But then again I'm an idiot! Just ask my wife!Quote:
Originally Posted by darkduc7
haha. i'll do some research but i think the only model that requires a different shock is the one with abs because of where the abs box is...Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlief
Sending you a pm
Link with penske for sale