[Kham]

finally decided to do something about the suspension, went and got this generic spring nut tools to adjust the rear preload. doesn't even work right, scratched up everything. then i check the default settings which is set for 150lbs load and they were somewhat off. the preload was way off, about 15mm. now it rides a lot better. i can tell it made a lot of difference even at 150lbs setting and im around 130lbs.

so now my question is this.

front setting for 150lbs.
rebound - 9 clicks
comp - 7 clicks

if 9 clicks @ 150lbs then 130lbs should = 7.8 clicks. do i just take the difference which is 1.2 click and add to 9 which is 10.2? higher nubmer is softer. does that make sense? if so i can do the same for rear. correct?

if not how much turn should i try for 10-20lbs less than default settings?

[GMAN226]

Originally posted by Kham
finally decided to do something about the suspension, went and got this generic spring nut tools to adjust the rear preload. doesn't even work right, scratched up everything. then i check the default settings which is set for 150lbs load and they were somewhat off. the preload was way off, about 15mm. now it rides a lot better. i can tell it made a lot of difference even at 150lbs setting and im around 130lbs.

so now my question is this.

front setting for 150lbs.
rebound - 9 clicks
comp - 7 clicks

if 9 clicks @ 150lbs then 130lbs should = 7.8 clicks. do i just take the difference which is 1.2 click and add to 9 which is 10.2? higher nubmer is softer. does that make sense? if so i can do the same for rear. correct?

if not how much turn should i try for 10-20lbs less than default settings?

The spring rate is what you want to be concerned with. The clickers on the forks are for damping: Compression, and Rebound. If you have any other questions I would talk to Peter Kates at GMD he knows his shit.

G-man

[Kham]

oh yea that's right. spring rates are different for each bike right? is there a rule of thumb?

[Kham]

spring rate is constant isn't it? hate to pull out a physic book.

[Kham]

im no math wiz but there's got to be a math relationship here but i dunno. it's all physics. starting point is given, you'r weight is known so end point could be found mathematically. what else you need?

any math wiz?

[Kham]

nevermind. i think there isn't 1 good numbers. just realize it also depends on the roads and speeds.

[Rice-rocket1]

post the same question up in the suspension section for Peter and he can give you all the info that you need. Peter is the man when it comes to suspension, had him rebuild mine. just need to get out and ride the damn thing now......

[Paul_E_D]

You can't really guess at suspension settings.

Peter will know what some of the issues with your particular bike and be able to give you a direction to go in.

But you really have to finish the work. Try changing the front 2 clicks at a time and ride it down a stretch of road that has some curves and some bumps and see how it feels. take notes on your impression and setting. You have to live with the settings, so you should be the one to choose them.

That said, now is not the time to do this. I'd wait til it considerably warmer before trying to dial in a set-up. My forks react entirely differently in the cold. I just don't push it while the temps are chilly.

[Kham]

Originally posted by Paul_E_D
You can't really guess at suspension settings.

why not? going by feel is guessing isn't it? if it's exact then there is math involve i think.

we'll see when it's warm and new tires are fitted on.

[oreo_n2]

i dont know about the real springs in bikes these days, but physics class way back when did not have real springs with linear spring rates,
their motions were usually described by 2nd order diff eqs... so the math probably isn't trivial.

i'd go with the voice of experience, but he went to VIR, so you gotta be patient til he gets back.

[hessogood]

it's differential equations, but you don't know the load and forces that you're tuning for so you can't use the mathmatical formula. Go to racetech's website and they have some good calcualtors for spring rates and they'll tell you what your stock spring rate is.

[Kham]

i .

i was just takin the ratio of where the factory sets it. the scale for front rebound is 1 to 13. 1 is hardest setting. so if factory sets it at 11 for 150lbs load then if i weight less than that i only have 2 clicks to play with. factory must be doing some calculation to come up with that setting and it must be for normal street ride condition. so i think.

as far as spring rate, it is constant if the space between the coil is evenly throughout. the variable rate spring has different spacing from one end to the other. that' sall i know.

[GMAN226]

Originally posted by Kham
i .

i was just takin the ratio of where the factory sets it. the scale for front rebound is 1 to 13. 1 is hardest setting. so if factory sets it at 11 for 150lbs load then if i weight less than that i only have 2 clicks to play with. factory must be doing some calculation to come up with that setting and it must be for normal street ride condition. so i think.

as far as spring rate, it is constant if the space between the coil is evenly throughout. the variable rate spring has different spacing from one end to the other. that' sall i know.

These cannot be looked at in a linear fasion, or by ratio calculation. There are curves that for both the rebound and compression due to the shim stacks and the fact that everything works based on fluid dynamics

Gerard

[Kham]

that's what i said the factory must be doing.

would you agree that i can't go lower than 11 clicks because i weight less than set by factory? how much more uncomfortable can i get? it feels very good right now. maybe i'll add 1 more clicks when i have a chance. that should do it.

[Rice-rocket1]

You may find that at 130 #'s, Peter may have to put a lighter weight spring in for you front and rear.

[lee955i]

Originally posted by Rice-rocket1
You may find that at 130 #'s, Peter may have to put a lighter weight spring in for you front and rear.

Exactly. Stop twiddling the little knobs (fnar, fnar) until you set the sag, front and rear. The sag is, basically, how much the bike settles under the weight of the bike and rider (Go to Racetech's site for instructions on how to do this). This is determined by spring rate. Once you get the correct sag numbers(or as close as you can get without re-springing the bike) then start to play with the compression and rebound adjustments. First, though, have an understanding of just exactly what it is you are adjusting and make one adjustment at a time, then try it, so you don't get confused with what adjustment made what feel different. Take notes, also.
Cheers, Lee S.