[97BladeRider]

Any recommendations for brake lines for my CBR?

[richw]

Happy with Spieglers

You also may think about going direct to each caliper from the master instead of a cross over hose, if you have one

Bleed bleed bleed ... wait 2 weeks bleed some more.

[union]

Originally posted by richw
Happy with Spieglers

You also may think about going direct to each caliper from the master instead of a cross over hose, if you have one

Bleed bleed bleed ... wait 2 weeks bleed some more.

I think most aftermarket braided lines are ment to go direct instead of through the cross over. Might as well do the rear while youre at it too.

[97BladeRider]

Originally posted by union
I think most aftermarket braided lines are ment to go direct instead of through the cross over. Might as well do the rear while youre at it too.

I had planned on it. I'll be needing new front pads, so I'll probably do all of it at once.

I found Gafler lines, here:
Gafler Stainless Steel Brake Lines . How are they compared to Spiegler?

[union]

Originally posted by 97BladeRider
I had planned on it. I'll be needing new front pads, so I'll probably do all of it at once.

I found Gafler lines, here:
Gafler Stainless Steel Brake Lines . How are they compared to Spiegler?

People I know that used Gafler have been happy with them. Not that Ive heard anything bad about Spiegler either. I also have my clutch done as well. Some people might say its a bit overkill but if you have the extra money might as well get that done too if you have a hydrolic clutch. If you want to see my setup let me know. I dont think Im too far from you , maybe 30min.

As for brake pads. Im running Vesrahs right now. They work great.

As Ive said in a couple of threads I purchase most of my stuff from Brian Van at www.sportbiketrackgear.com. Hes a very easy guy to deal with and he wont sell you something that you dont need.

[duey]

lines on my SV are Galfer, with ebc pads (which i'm changing soon).

[Billy]

Keep in mind that if you do the rear, you run the risk of locking up the rear more because of the increased braking power.

[union]

Originally posted by BadBoyBilly
Keep in mind that if you do the rear, you run the risk of locking up the rear more because of the increased braking power.

hmm never had that problem. The rear shouldnt get a lot of use anyway let alone get stomped on enough to lock up. I suppose if you really had to stop fast like say something was in your way I guess its possible but even when I have stood on the rear brake it never locked on me.

[s a x m a n]

Originally posted by union
hmm never had that problem. The rear shouldnt get a lot of use anyway let alone get stomped on enough to lock up. I suppose if you really had to stop fast like say something was in your way I guess its possible but even when I have stood on the rear brake it never locked on me.

???


is there fluid in your rear brake line?


its SO easy to lock up the rear

[union]

Originally posted by s a x m a n
???


is there fluid in your rear brake line?


its SO easy to lock up the rear

Yep freshly changed too. Even brakepads in the real caliper. Ive seen my rear lock up once and it was when the dude inspecting my bike decided to take it for a ride around the parking lot. And then he blamed me for the patch in my tire that he made.

Like I said Ive never locked up my rear. It is used sparingly but I have yet to lock it.

[Uncle Snake]

+1 on the Galfer lines.

[RandyO]

Originally posted by BadBoyBilly
Keep in mind that if you do the rear, you run the risk of locking up the rear more because of the increased braking power.

there is no increase in braking power with stainless steel lines, only a difference in feel

braking power is determined by the area and material in your pads

there really isn't that much differnece in feel either unless your comparing to old rubber lines

[richw]

I always nag about solvent cleaning your rotors of road spooge. Best way to return 1 finger braking.

People have been known to play with rear brakes to prevent lock up including deliberately not bleeding them well.

I got stainless line to increase the length when I put on my ape hangers. I still used the crossover.

Spiegler will come with a little wrench that allows you to rotate the banjo if need be I don't know that from gaffer..

[Punjistick]

Originally posted by s a x m a n
its SO easy to lock up the rear

+1
I might actually let some air in my rear as it seems to be locking all the time when I brake.

[s a x m a n]

Originally posted by RandyO
there is no increase in braking power with stainless steel lines, only a difference in feel

braking power is determined by the area and material in your pads

there really isn't that much differnece in feel either unless your comparing to old rubber lines

i disagree ... the pressure you apply is all going into the calipers instead of expanding the rubber lines and going into the calipers ... that should have some effect on the force of braking.

[Evil_Weasel]

Originally posted by s a x m a n
i disagree ... the pressure you apply is all going into the calipers instead of expanding the rubber lines and going into the calipers ... that should have some effect on the force of braking.

exactly with steel lines you get the same power with less lever travel, or more power for the same amount of lever travel.... however you prefer to look at it.

anyways i've used mostly gaffler stuff in the past... loved their lines, pads, and rotors. i think the NSR has EBC pads and goodrich lines...no complaints there either.

personally i like a crisp and effective rear brake, some people don't...depends on riding style i guess. i use the rear for things other than just stopping though. like keeping the front down when cresting hills hard on the gas.

[RandyO]

1000psi hydraulic force is 1000psi force regardless of type of lines

the only way to get more braking force out of the potential of your master cylinder is to change the area or material of your pads

again, lines don't change the amount of force, maybe travel, but that's not force

disabling the rear brake by admitting air into the system is STUPID btw

learn to use brakes properly

[LuvDog]

I've got Spiegler brake lines on my 7R.
Wolford brake lines and Galfer clutch line on my 916.

I don't notice ANY increased tendency to lock up the rear wheel with the SS verus the old rubber.

With both bikes I went away from the cross over front and went with the double banjo direct line to each caliper.

[Tricky Mike]

HEL brakelines use stainless fittings, FWIW...
This is what happens when you use AL fittings and stainless lines:



Electrolytic corrosion, yo, electrolytic corrosion... Most metals don't play well together in the presence of a liquid... even those that don't rust.

HEL USA website

[union]

Originally posted by RandyO

disabling the rear brake by admitting air into the system is STUPID btw

learn to use brakes properly

+1 to this. The time you need your rear the most is when the sir bubble will come back to haunt you.

As I said I have had 0 issues with locking my rear. Can it happen? Sure it can the tard that decided to ride my bike around the parking lot durning the inspection did it. You can lock the rear with the stock lines. Its all in weight transfer and how you apply the brake. If you just stomp on it while having the fronts pinned down youre going to lock it up. If you brake properly you shouldnt have an issue especially on the street.

[Degsy]

Originally posted by RandyO
1000psi hydraulic force is 1000psi force regardless of type of lines

the only way to get more braking force out of the potential of your master cylinder is to change the area or material of your pads

again, lines don't change the amount of force, maybe travel, but that's not force

disabling the rear brake by admitting air into the system is STUPID btw

learn to use brakes properly

Randy's right. Force is force. The difference in steel brake lines is feel, which is VERY important in performance riding. I'm not with Randy on the rear brake thing, though. I believe there is never a need for rear brake on a modern bike unless you are backing it in or trying to settle the rear suspension. In both of those cases, you need very very little rear brake. I run with a bubble in my rear brakes for that reason (to get more play so the brakes engage slower).

[Tricky Mike]

Originally posted by Degsy
I run with a bubble in my rear brakes for that reason (to get more play so the brakes engage slower).

that's an interesting idea... does it ever work it's way back into the reservoir and firm up again?

My current sole use for rear brake to keep from rolling backwards at stoplights... that's about it... well, that and reigning in the ocasssional wheelie about to loop... not that I ever wheelie

[RandyO]

Originally posted by Degsy
Randy's right. Force is force. The difference in steel brake lines is feel, which is VERY important in performance riding. I'm not with Randy on the rear brake thing, though. I believe there is never a need for rear brake on a modern bike unless you are backing it in or trying to settle the rear suspension. In both of those cases, you need very very little rear brake. I run with a bubble in my rear brakes for that reason (to get more play so the brakes engage slower).

modern bike.... sure if it's got the latest in suspension,

I have a SV, using the front brake only with stock suspension is asking for disaster, but with proper application of front AND rear, the suspension settles evenly and you stop quicker

and as you know Degs, I only use my brakes when I am stopping

I actually prefer a drum brake in rear on my XV, it has solid linkage to the shoes, I have no problem locking the rear if I want to and it's much easier to modulate the drum/shoe without locking

[Billy]

Union,

Keep in mind you have a pretty heavy bike so it's probably harder to lock up your rear.

On my F4 I was always locking up my rear even with the slightest touch (with the SS lines). It got to the point where I just didn't use it no more. Before when they were the OEM rubber lines, I never locked them up.

[union]

Originally posted by BadBoyBilly
Union,

Keep in mind you have a pretty heavy bike so it's probably harder to lock up your rear.

On my F4 I was always locking up my rear even with the slightest touch (with the SS lines). It got to the point where I just didn't use it no more. Before when they were the OEM rubber lines, I never locked them up.

Ya its a bit heavy. Listed as 439lbs dry stock. Mine has been on a bit of the diet so Id say more in the 415-420ish dryarea. Most of the weight came off the ass end in forms on pipe(big loss), under tail and a new link which are much smaller losses but as still losses in weight. Id say both sides of my satos weight less then one side of the stock exhaust. Add in the about 6lbs per gallon up front in the tank so thats another 30lbs closer to the front wheel.

The brakes do lock up and if you have little feel for the brakes you can lock them easily especially when all the weight is transfered to the front end when actually braking. Its a feel thing and I have yet to experience the rear locking up on me but I dont stand on the rear brake and like most sportbikes I really dont need to use it often at all. I dont have to put much pressure on the rear to get them to do their job.

You can run an air bubble in the hose like Degsy but its not something I would do unless it was a track only bike and even then I doubt I would do it. Just when you need them to stop the most it will come back and bite you in the ass.