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  #1  
Old 08-05-07, 02:46 PM
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Love me some countershaft nuts.


I guess I got a little bit of leverage with the 4 feet of pipe I was using......

I used this 3/8" extension as a wheel stop as I attempted to remove my front sprocket nut on this )(*#)*$ Kawi, which calls for 94ft/lbs of torque.....

I guess next time I'll be sure to use the 1/2" extension.

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  #2  
Old 08-05-07, 02:48 PM
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Now you can tighten nuts around corners.
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  #3  
Old 08-05-07, 03:39 PM
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Get yourself a cheap electric impact from Northern or somewhere like that.
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  #4  
Old 08-05-07, 05:46 PM
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Love me some countershaft nuts.


I concede that the electric impact is the most real world way to go.I've used one on a couple of my bikes' front sprocket nuts. My Ducati though,uses a lockplate with two little 6mm screws.Now THAT is easy.
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  #5  
Old 08-05-07, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DucXl View Post
I concede that the electric impact is the most real world way to go.I've used one on a couple of my bikes' front sprocket nuts. My Ducati though,uses a lockplate with two little 6mm screws.Now THAT is easy.
Seriously, why cant anyone else come up with a better solution than just "torque it to 150ft/lbs and you should be all set".
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  #6  
Old 08-05-07, 07:02 PM
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Love me some countershaft nuts.


I think the proper tool for holding the sprocket is called a "Chain whip".It'll
hold the sprocket so the torque required doesn't travel through the transmission or the drive chain.

Holding the sprocket independently is the key to this task.That,and a good 3/4" drive Snap-on breaker bar to remove and a good 3/4" torque wrench.
But....there aren't many applications to justify such a costly tool.There ARE plenty of applications though for an inch pounds torque wrench as well as foot pounds to 100 or so.
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  #7  
Old 08-05-07, 08:17 PM
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i just changed mine recently and all i did was keep the chain on, have the rear brake held, put it in first, and used a 1/2" wrench thats about 2' long and it came right off
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  #8  
Old 08-05-07, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DucXl View Post
I concede that the electric impact is the most real world way to go.I've used one on a couple of my bikes' front sprocket nuts. My Ducati though,uses a lockplate with two little 6mm screws.Now THAT is easy.
DO NOT USE AN IMPACT!!!

KB
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  #9  
Old 08-05-07, 08:31 PM
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You can do this with the old chain on the bike so you can leave the bike in gear and use the brakes to hold the bike still.

Yah I know it's totally logical to take the chain off first...
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  #10  
Old 08-05-07, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmbbikes View Post
DO NOT USE AN IMPACT!!!

KB
Why not, as long as the bike is in neutral it's not going to hurt anything.
I've done it that way for years, never had a problem
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  #11  
Old 08-05-07, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benVFR View Post
You can do this with the old chain on the bike so you can leave the bike in gear and use the brakes to hold the bike still.

Yah I know it's totally logical to take the chain off first...
Yeah, thats all I did, but left the bike in neutral.

I think my favorite part was at one point when the sprocket carrier came flying out of the rim and the cush drives popped out all over the place.
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  #12  
Old 08-05-07, 08:54 PM
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Yeah Electric must be nice, But I like my Cornwell Neumatic...
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  #13  
Old 08-05-07, 09:01 PM
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I went big, got a 1" electric impact with 750ftlbs of torque...this thing will snap the bolt free before it even thinks about loading the transmission with torque The little impacts do put a lot of stress on the transmission IMO
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  #14  
Old 08-05-07, 09:11 PM
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Love me some countershaft nuts.


The proper tool would be a socket driver with links that grasp the sprocket fitting between the teeth and applied a reverse torque in proportion to the torque applied to the socket.

Sadly, it would be a complex tool to manufacture, and would require different adapter plates that fit the various link sizes (520, 525, 530, etc). I doubt that a tool could be produced that would fit within the budget of the shade-tree mechanic. Plus there's the problem that there's no standard for the distance between the countershaft nut and the sprocket teeth.
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  #15  
Old 08-05-07, 09:18 PM
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With that in mind Darrell, I once again refer back to earlier today where I said "FUCKING SPROCKET NUT!".

I didnt start my coolant overflow on fire with the torch though, so alls well that ends well.
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  #16  
Old 08-06-07, 02:11 AM
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You haven't done the timing belt on that Civic yet have you, I'll await that thread

((But I'll loan you my compressor and 650 ft/lb. thump gun first, to make life a little easier.))
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  #17  
Old 08-06-07, 02:19 PM
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Love me some countershaft nuts.


Ducati spec theirs to a low torque (17ft/lb maybe?), use lots of thread locker and have fasteners made out of crumbly cheese.

I should know, I stripped one front sprocket screw (out of two) and two clutch slave cylinder screws (out of three) using t-handled hex key.

Fuckers.
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  #18  
Old 08-06-07, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmbbikes View Post
DO NOT USE AN IMPACT!!!

KB
??? I always use an impact gun for countershaft bolts. Have it in neutral and hold the rear brake. piece of cake.
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  #19  
Old 08-07-07, 10:23 AM
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As a general rule, impact wrenches are a no-no on parts with gears feeding them. Some people crack teeth off their gears, some people do it their whole life with no problem. I don't do it though...

Jeff, don't stick anything through the wheel like that. The swingarm and the wheel are not designed to take stress that way. As suggested, put the bike in neutral, rear brake on full lock with the chain on, and torque away. Might help to whack the nut with a piece 3/8 steel rod a couple times to loosen it up. I'm sure its got assembly loctite at a minimum.

Just my .02$
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  #20  
Old 08-07-07, 06:14 PM
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Love me some countershaft nuts.


I would have held the rear brake, but I was too busy trying to fold that socket extension up using my wheel and swingarm.
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  #21  
Old 08-07-07, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rebelpacket View Post
As a general rule, impact wrenches are a no-no on parts with gears feeding them. Some people crack teeth off their gears, some people do it their whole life with no problem. I don't do it though...
Just my .02$
Yeah, it must be true, I read it on the internet.

How about 160hp bangin' down a gear or two then wringing it wide open with no clutch at 15krpm??? Just a tad more than an impact wrench, per chance?

Jesus people, think about what you're saying before just regurgitating stuff you hear or read on the interweb.

hey, that's just my $0.02c. I might be completely wrong.

derek
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  #22  
Old 08-07-07, 06:36 PM
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+1 but I use a 2x4 & brakes for years. I might be completely wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Degsy View Post
Yeah, it must be true, I read it on the internet.

How about 160hp bangin' down a gear or two then wringing it wide open with no clutch at 15krpm??? Just a tad more than an impact wrench, per chance?

Jesus people, think about what you're saying before just regurgitating stuff you hear or read on the interweb.

hey, that's just my $0.02c. I might be completely wrong.

derek
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  #23  
Old 08-07-07, 06:38 PM
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+1

I've always hit them with the gun.
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  #24  
Old 08-09-07, 05:17 AM
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Sport Rider Hands On tech tip-Motorcycle Engine Removal and Installation
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  #25  
Old 08-09-07, 07:41 AM
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Sorry Degsy. My personal opinion, not gospel. I don't know enough about the physics and dampening system in a motorcycle's drive-train to know if it is or is not the same amount of force that a 100psi air-impact wrench would deliver. I just try to play it safe when it comes to engine internals, and advise others to do the same. You are probably right. Its not uncommon for me to be wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Degsy View Post
Yeah, it must be true, I read it on the internet.
How about 160hp bangin' down a gear or two then wringing it wide open with no clutch at 15krpm??? Just a tad more than an impact wrench, per chance?

Jesus people, think about what you're saying before just regurgitating stuff you hear or read on the interweb.

hey, that's just my $0.02c. I might be completely wrong.
derek
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