[loridin64]

are you going to route the blowoff back into the exhaust or have it open environment?

[Big Draggo]

Took me two years and over 30k$ to get the turbo on my Busa completed and runing right (430hp). Best money I ever spent...

Have fun, sounds like a great project.

[Loun]

definitely sounds better with a BOV however on a smaller motor like that unless you have a tiny vent or a really stiff spring you are going to run pig rich when you shift. A BPV obviously is better since its keeping metered air in the system but definitely lacks the "Look at me" Factor.

I have an 84 dodge colt turbo I added an intercooler and BOV to, it sounds amazing since it is a 4x2 transmission so i could shift 8 times lol (confuses the hell out of honda people hearing the BOV that many times..) but upon shifting it vents so much air it almost stalls..

depends on which you want better, performance or wow

[Brit-Triple]

when you say it almost stalls, is that with down shifting?? The bov will not make your car stall, and if you are upshifting and almost stalling, then it is def not that either.

My galant used to have issues with the downshifting stall because the idle control is a cork piece in the throttle body. Even a slight turning of it could make the idle race or almost die.

this guy said it better than me:

"The purpose of a blow off valve or compressor bypass valve is to prevent large pressure spikes in the intake pipes when the throttle plate is closed while boosting, preventing the turbo from surging. The BOV sits between the turbo and the throttle body and has a vacuum line that is attached to both the other side of the BOV valve and the intake manifold. When you are boosting the pressure on both sides of the valve is essentially equal because the pressure in the intake manifold is the same as in the intake pipes. When you close the throttle plate while boosting all that air slams into the plate and pressure spikes. At the same time the intake manifold pressure drops to a vacuum, and thus so does the pressure on the other side of the valve. The result is the valve opens wide to allow the pressure to vent out. Also included in a good BOV is some form of spring to aid in keeping the valve closed during modulating part throttle situations so that the BOV doesn't open and cause drivability problems."

Your motorcycle should function fine, you are not making stratospheric demands from it. You are going low boost and keeping it simple. You didn't skimp on the parts. Usually people run into problems when they take something old and then try to blow it up with insane amounts of boost pressure and then demand too much from oil supply and everything else.

keep the updates coming.

[Loun]

after that lengthy description of what a BOV and BPV does, one of the biggest things it does is reduces turbo lag in between shifts because the pressure release allows the turbo to continue spinning..

But regardless... If you are upshifting or downshifting and you release already metered air (at least in a car) then you are going to run rich. Ratio of X (fuel) to Y Air is supposed to be a known variable by the ecu for tuning. You change that ratio by releasing "metered" air then there can be an issue. With that said I dont know if your bike or other bikes really have an air meter before that BOV. if not then none of this matters. If you run too rich, compounded by a small motor and a large vent and yes you will stall or bog if the air you release is already accounted for. Thats why most factory turbo cars come with a BPV. (although they all run rich from the factory as a safety factor for motor longevity)

but if we disagree thats fine no need to keep adding more to this post that wont help him

[superbrew]

It's carburated, so soesn't that mean there is no measuring of the air flow through the intake?

[Loun]

i dunno what bike it was on thats why i mentioned that none of this would matter if theres no metered air We took the other debate to PM lol.

That bikes going to be mean though and is incredibly well fabbed, really clean.

[Kurlon]

It you're at 114hp now, you need slightly less than 1 atmo to hit 200, assuming no other losses, so figure on 13lbs of boost to do the deed.

[superbrew]

dunno what bike it was on thats why i mentioned that none of this would matter if theres no metered air We took the other debate to PM lol.

I was more asking if I was correct than trying to debate with you.

[Loun]

oh wasnt debating at all I think if its carbed then its not an issue but i honestly have no clue on carbs

[Bandit12k]

STARTED IT UP TONIGHT!!!!!wOOT WOOT! a little bit of happy and a little bit of angry :angry:

Turned the bike on, turned the switch for the fuel pump and oil sump (the inline pump)

heh heh heh.... Well the plan for the inline Outboard Boat engine fuel pump didn't stack up as an oil return sump. More like a PLUG! Oil filled up in the turbo, and out the seal. She became a mosquito killer!


^mosquito killer.

I'm running the oil return back to the oil filler hole on the clutch cover.

SO... we just bypassed the "oil sump" and ran the hose straight back. Turns out she ran very well after that, turbo was goin good... except a little steady stream of oil back out the exhaust.

Also found out the #2 exhaust runner has a leak where it goes into the head. Damn... TIme to pull it ALL OFF and get some orange high temp silicone in there

Where's a good place to buy a scavenger oil pump / sump? I'm hopin less than 100$

I don't want to tap into the oil pan itsself. Not a happy idea to me. Plus there really arn't any good places to tap either.


Fluid Transfer Pumps, Electric - summitracing.com
seems to be the best price, hope someone can find a cheaper one!


Here is a video of tonight you may get some info on the setup.
no sound, sorry.
YouTube - TURBO suzuki bandit 1200 streetfighter hayabusa killer

~Kevin
PS- I WANT THIS DONE FOR LACONIA!!!

[rg500]

where did you get the oil feed from? It is possible that your feed pressure is too high. A restricter in the oil line could also help.

Electric Oil Feed and Scavenge Pumps

Turbo Oil Scavenge Pump - 12V (DC)

Porsche turbo upgrades and oil scavenge pumps

Here are a few scavenge pump options. They are all in the $250 range. Alex or Bill at Dentsport might have a few suggestions.

[Bandit12k]

i really like that rbRacing one... i'm going to see if my local parts guy has some.

Oil feed came off the main oil galley off the oil pump. The banjo bolt on the oil inlet on the turbo has a restrictor built in.. so its not overpressurizing the turbo, i know that for sure.

[Bandit12k]

mechanically together and sound! 8)
But now its not running very well :7

So, with the bike running before the turbo, all i had was the stock 100 main jets, with the air/fuel screws 3 turns out.

So i started the BASE tuning with 152.5 main jets, 2 shims under each needle, and the float bowls lowered 2mm each to 15mm final. Also running 2psi fuel pressure.
Bike idles GREAT and starts easily.
HOWEVER, anything more than 1/8 throttle, it just dies. Not even put put... just poof. dies.

So... i figured it could have been a number of things... So i went back to the easy idea... eliminate all variables... Put the stock jets in, and removed the shims...
Same problem... SO MUST BE FLOAT HEIGHT.

Now, i was told to lower the floats 2mm... i did... I'm doubting this now, so i'm going to bring them back to stock height. 13 mm. Should be runnable from there.
Then maybe i'll throw the 140 jets in that i have, and put the shims back in. Yup, that's the plan, any other comments?

Until then, heres some Eye Candy.

[size=10pt][size=10pt]New video[/size][/size]... YouTube - the NEW ghost rider turbo hayabusa killer
I NEED A CAMERA WITH SOUND! gF has one... comming soon.

[img width=640 height=480]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y214/turbohonda/P5170190.jpg[/img]
[img width=640 height=480]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y214/turbohonda/P5170189.jpg[/img]
[img width=640 height=480]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y214/turbohonda/P5170188.jpg[/img]
[img width=640 height=480]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y214/turbohonda/P5170187.jpg[/img]
[img width=640 height=480]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y214/turbohonda/P5170186.jpg[/img]

[JohnnyV]

DAMN man the thing looks SICK. Next time I'm cruisin' down to RI to meet up with my bro we'll have to get together for a ride or something, I wanna see this thing in person.

[Bandit12k]

sure, just send me a pm~

[bigred875]

Originally Posted by Bandit12k

mechanically together and sound! 8)
But now its not running very well :7

So, with the bike running before the turbo, all i had was the stock 100 main jets, with the air/fuel screws 3 turns out.

So i started the BASE tuning with 152.5 main jets, 2 shims under each needle, and the float bowls lowered 2mm each to 15mm final. Also running 2psi fuel pressure.
Bike idles GREAT and starts easily.
HOWEVER, anything more than 1/8 throttle, it just dies. Not even put put... just poof. dies.

So... i figured it could have been a number of things... So i went back to the easy idea... eliminate all variables... Put the stock jets in, and removed the shims...
Same problem... SO MUST BE FLOAT HEIGHT.

Now, i was told to lower the floats 2mm... i did... I'm doubting this now, so i'm going to bring them back to stock height. 13 mm. Should be runnable from there.
Then maybe i'll throw the 140 jets in that i have, and put the shims back in. Yup, that's the plan, any other comments?

Until then, heres some Eye Candy.

[size=10pt][size=10pt]New video[/size][/size]... YouTube - the NEW ghost rider turbo hayabusa killer
I NEED A CAMERA WITH SOUND! gF has one... comming soon.

looks great dude

[OreoGitorio]

Reminds me of a commercial....

"You... orange, now?"?
no...
"You... Leppard now"?
no....


oh if I could only remember how it goes


*que KB*

[JohnnyV]

Originally Posted by OreoGitorio

Reminds me of a commercial....

"You... orange, now?"?
no...
"You... Leppard now"?
no....


oh if I could only remember how it goes


*que KB*

I was thinking more along the lines of.....

"It's grrrrrrrrrrrrreat!!"

[schleppy]

Absolutely sick.

[Brit-Triple]

Great to see the finished product and hope you work the kinks out soon.

The fit and finish are amazing. Congrats.

[wicked13]

That is a very cool set up. Awesome fab work. What are the toggle looking things under the tail?

[Bandit12k]

Thanks everyone. Really took my time on this build.

Originally Posted by wicked13

That is a very cool set up. Awesome fab work. What are the toggle looking things under the tail?

Those are just clevis pins to hold the undertail on. holds it really secure, and easy to get in and out to the battery / fuses / fuel pump and regulator etc. And it's how i have to get to the bottom of the seat to unlatch it.
They're kinda like Hood Pins on a car. Got em at Lowes.

[loridin64]

absolutely awesome man. is it in Nash or RI? im only a couple minutes from Nash, i'd love to come check it out.

[Bandit12k]

Float bowl height back to stock 13mm, Stock jets, No shims, only carb mod is a/f screws are 3 turns out.

well, here a draw up of exactly how i have all the boost / vaccuum / and fuel lines set up.

[img width=640 height=439]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y214/turbohonda/HELP.jpg[/img]

I'm 100% sure the boost reference is not seeing vaccume, as you can see in this picture, it only goes to the bypass regulator and to the bowl overflo's.

The vaccume nipple on the #4 carb that goes to the petc*** in stock formation, is what i'm using for the Blow off valve, and Wastegate plumbing. That see's vaccume... you'll see in the video.

But... what doesn't make sense, is that if i pinch the boost reference hose, i can rev it up just once... then it'll die. HHhmmm

Help!!! Whats wrong?!?!/! I'VE BEEN ITCHING TO RIDE HER! I'm out of ideas.

VIDEO W/ SOUND YouTube - tuning the turbo bandit WITH SOUND