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  #26  
Old 06-05-08, 04:16 PM
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Re: FAILED my inspection for: wait for it.... wait for it.........


Do you live in Attleboro? Try M1M Motorsports in Mansfield, right of Rt. 106. I've never had a problem there with any of my bikes. As long as your tires and lights are good your all set. Heres there web site homepage

Its alot closer than Brockton Cycles.
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  #27  
Old 06-05-08, 05:57 PM
stoinkythepig's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Raymond NH
Age: 42
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Re: FAILED my inspection for: wait for it.... wait for it.........


I was failed last year for front brake pads. I replaced them, went back, and after my sticker was in place, whipped out the old pads, a dial caliper and my factory service manual to show the guy who initially failed me why he was wrong to do so. He was very apologetic. My old pads had at least 50% of life left.

My rear brake pads are original and look like new with 62,000+ miles. I only use them to keep from rolling backwards when starting off uphill. They have about 1/8" of wear material.
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  #28  
Old 06-05-08, 08:29 PM
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Location: Salem NH
Age: 24
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Re: FAILED my inspection for: wait for it.... wait for it.........


Quote:
Originally Posted by Loun View Post
that happened to me last year (rear brakes as well) they give you a rejected receipt that lets you ride on it for 20 days. then in that 20 days you swing back by that same dealer and the check to make sure you fixed the issue and give you a sticker... i have one now because one of my tail lights didnt work when i went there the other day to do mine. im riding back by today, but i have the rejected receipt in case I get pulled over.
You're kidding right? That little piece of paper doesn't mean you can ride around for 20 days. All it means is that you have 20 days to bring it back before you have to pay the re-inspection fee. It is a safety defect so it MUST be fixed before you go riding around. Trust me, I've gotten tickets for that and the cop explains it to me the same way I just did to you.
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  #29  
Old 06-05-08, 08:37 PM
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Re: FAILED my inspection for: wait for it.... wait for it.........


Not to mention if he really wants to bust balls he can have your bike/car towed for a safty defect..
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  #30  
Old 06-05-08, 08:43 PM
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Re: FAILED my inspection for: wait for it.... wait for it.........


Quote:
Originally Posted by Josephd14 View Post
Not to mention if he really wants to bust balls he can have your bike/car towed for a safty defect..
I forgot to add that part. I always got threatened with that one.
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  #31  
Old 06-05-08, 10:55 PM
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Re: FAILED my inspection for: wait for it.... wait for it.........


Quote:
Originally Posted by xrocket21 View Post
Honestly, I think the old guy just didnt like sportbikes, he came out after I already passed with the attitude of finding soemthing to fail me on.

At least he didnt take my money, he gave it back. He tried mto send me to some other place but I never found it.
He tried sending you to another place? Why wouldn't he just pass you instead of helping you find another place to pass to just miss out on your $15? Seems like he got you good by not only failing you but sending you on a wild goose chase.
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  #32  
Old 06-06-08, 01:19 AM
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Re: FAILED my inspection for: wait for it.... wait for it.........


Anderson Cycle failed me last year for stearing bearings. Couldn't believe it. You had to raise the front tire and rotate the handle bars to feel a very slight tick.

Wanted $250 to change them. Did them myself, it sucked. Should of had them done, but gained some experience, and once opened up the old ones were crap.

Had to stick the stem and races in the freezer to shrink them down a bit to fit the bearings...




Picasa Web Albums - Joe - Untitled Album



FIt like a dream after the freezer. It's a good thing too, I didn't want to have to put the bearings in the toaster oven...

Same deal for me. Wouldn't pass me, but wasn't going to charge me or fail me either, so that was cool..

Last edited by hambonez : 06-06-08 at 01:34 AM. Reason: link
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  #33  
Old 06-06-08, 05:01 AM
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Re: FAILED my inspection for: wait for it.... wait for it.........


WOW what a douche ...you rode 40 miles in the rain/drizzle to get rejected for rear brake pads

if you had only ridden 5 miles on a sunny day you would have used up less rear pad and prolly woulda passed no matter where you went
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  #34  
Old 06-09-08, 12:31 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Mass
Posts: 320

Re: FAILED my inspection for: wait for it.... wait for it.........


Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang183 View Post
Do you live in Attleboro? Try M1M Motorsports in Mansfield, right of Rt. 106. I've never had a problem there with any of my bikes. As long as your tires and lights are good your all set. Heres there web site homepage

Its alot closer than Brockton Cycles.

SOMEONE BUY THIS MAN A BEER.

Thanks dude! all set now
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  #35  
Old 06-09-08, 02:13 PM
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Re: FAILED my inspection for: wait for it.... wait for it.........


Well looks like you're all set... but for those interested in what SHOULD actually be inspected:

Quote:
540 CMR 4.00

3) Brakes.

(a) Brakes must be adequate to stop a motorcycle from a speed of 20 m.p.h. in not more than 19 feet. Each motorcycle shall have either a split service brake system or two independently actuated service brake systems which, upon application, act on front and rear wheels. Any motorcycle which has a number plate issued under the provisions M.G.L. c. 90, § 6A (Plates for antique motor cars) which was not manufactured with either a split service brake system or two independently actuated service brake systems shall be required to have one brake system adequate to stop said motorcycle within the aforementioned distances. For more recent model motorcycles observe whether the motorcycle utilizes a brake anti-lock equalizer system which proportionately controls braking pressure to the front and rear wheels.

(b) Mechanical Brake System. Inspect the linkage, cables, pivots and bearings for high friction, wear and broken or missing parts. Reject motorcycle if:

1. Brake adjustment changes under any steering or loading.

2. Cotter pins are missing.

3. Pins or clevises are worn more than 25% of the original diameter.

4. The cam operating lever has been repositioned on the shaft as a means of avoiding replacement of worn cam, shoes or lining.

5. Any cables are frayed (two or more broken strands).

6. Any brake adjustment mechanism which will not maintain an adjusted position or is adjusted to its maximum extent.

7. Front brake cable is routed so as to be pinched between fork and frame.

8. There is any roughness, binding, or jamming in levers or pedals.

9. Less than 1/3 reserve remains in hand or foot brake when brakes are applied.

10. Modifications make the pedal or lever inaccessible for adequate leverage or operation.

11. Any portion of the brake hand lever is broken or missing.

(c) Hydraulic Brake System. Visually inspect the condition of the hydraulic system. Note: Do Not Remove Wheels. Reject the motorcycle if:

1. Hoses or tubing leaks or they are cracked, chafed, flattened, restricted or are improperly fastened.

2. Master cylinder leaks or the reservoir capacity is less than the manufacturer's recommended safe level if known or less than 1/2 total capacity.

3. There is any leakage in the brake system.
4. The push rod is improperly adjusted.

5. Wheel cylinder or caliper leaks or fails to function.

(d) Hydraulic System Tests. Test motorcycle in a standing position. The inspector should be able to maintain brake or hand lever reserve under moderate force (40-60 lbs.) for 15 seconds. Reject the motorcycle if brake reserve cannot be maintained for 15 seconds or if there is less than approximately 1/3 of the total available pedal or brake lever travel remains. The brake lever and pedal should exhibit smooth, firm and responsive action.

Allow wheels to turn freely when not in the braking mode. Reject the motorcycle if binding occurs and wheels do not turn freely.

(e) Visual Inspection of Brake Pads and Discs. Where pads and discs are visible check and reject if:

1. There is any substantial crack extending to the edge of the disc or pad.

2. There is evidence of mechanical damage other than wear.

3. Friction surface of disc or pad is contaminated with oil, grease or brake fluid.

4. There is excessive roughness to the disc.

5. The disc is warped or bent.

6. Pad is broken, loose or worn beyond replacement indicators.

My guess is 6. Pad is broken, loose or worn beyond replacement indicators. was your issue...

The entire inspection guide for MASS can be read here RMV - 540 CMR 4.00
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