[Sidewinder]

I'm thinking of getting one. A coupe v8 witha 390.

[beet]

First car I drove on the street 67 289 hipo 4 spd look out for rust the 390 is bullit proof one of the best motors ever made.

[RandyO]

especially look for rust & metal fatigue on the inner fenders in front. as the inner feners become weak, the nose starts to cave in on itself

[beet]

LOL they squeek.

[SSearchVT]

Look out for rust. Buy one of those magnetic bondo detectors and go over the entire body a few times. Get underneath with a small screwdriver and poke. It can all be replaced - but it all costs money and takes time. Are you looking for a toy, or a show/collector car? If you go the toy route you can make it a fun reliable car real quick by upgrading the electrical system and ignition, brkaes and suspension. To make it a show/collector is a lot of work.

[DaSpence]

I know Gordon had a old mustang mach 1 where you at Gordo

[Stoneman]

Talk to Gordon, period...

[cexley]

67 Mustang with a 390....what color?....Dark Green
Can you say Steve Mcqueen Bullet......
390 was too heavy for the mustang. You will want to upgrade the front suspension. While you are at it, upgrade to Disc Brakes.
Also, look in the trunk, another rust prone area, around the gas tank.
All parts are readily available, and upgradable. You can turn that car into a straight line Monster, or a track Demon. Great car if you are mechanically inclined, and into the Pony car era.

[cbrburns]

I had two 66 Stangs, both 289 4spd cars. Lots of fun, but like everyone else has already said, you need to upgrade the brakes and suspension to make it drive nice. And the rust is usually everywhere, especially the fender wells, floor pans, trunk and rear frame rails. Look at the under side of the doors as well, they hold water and rot out. Good luck, fun little cars.

[Sidewinder]

I lied its a 290 automatic. According to the owner there is no rust frame and chassis is straight as a button. Paint is a 10 out of a 10.

Any ideas of what said car is worth?

[beet]

Alot if he's not lieing not as much as a 4sp
look it up Zip Code

[beet]

Low Retail Average Retail Value High Retail
Base Price
$6,175 $12,600 $21,000
Options

289/225 HP V8 Engine 15% 15% 15%
TOTAL PRICE $7,101 $14,490 $24,150
in ct

[Doc]

I had an old 69 Mustang with the inline 6 rust bucket but i loved that car.

My brother has a 67 Coupe that he has completely redone (welll is redoing) with a 460 talk about heavy!.

The 289 is not a performance motor. Is this a New England car? Bone stock? Stock Paint?

[SVRACER01]

Originally Posted by Sidewinder

I lied its a 290 automatic. According to the owner there is no rust frame and chassis is straight as a button. Paint is a 10 out of a 10.

Any ideas of what said car is worth?

buttons are round

[burnham]

You can look through Hemmings Motor News to get an idea what these cars are going for, best selection of old cars from around the country.

[snaggle]

If you buy this I have the whole drive line (200I-6, C-4 Auto, axle) that came out of my '68 when I swapped to a 302. You can have it all if you come get it!

[dhuze]

Mustang didn't have a 290 in 1967. They did have a 390. It would have an "s" code in the vin. Thats the 5th letter in. The 5th letter in the vin will tell you what should be there if you are looking for an original. U= 200 6 cyl, C= 289 8 cyl 200hp, A= 289 225hp, K= 289 271hp, and S= 390 320hp.

Base price in 1967 was $2,461.46 for a 2 door hardtop.

[scootertrash]

Places you need to check for rust, just to know what you are getting for your money:
- Floors
- Torque boxes (where the front part of the frame connects to the front suspension area)
- Frame
- Rear quarter panels
- Open the doors and look at the bottom of the doors with them open
- Trunk floor
- Air box (look down in the grill area at the base of the windshield)
These areas will almost certaintly have rust unless they have been repaired or the car is a real cherry.
If you are good at body work, that's great. It will save you a lot of $.
The good news is that replacement parts are readily available from places like Mustangs Unlimited in Manchester, CT. The bad news is that even doing the work yourself, you may easily put more into the car than it's worth if there is a bunch of rust, especially since this is a coupe. A coupe will never be worth a bunch, even in cherry condition. Fastbacks and convertables bring in big dollars, mostly because they were all made in much smaller numbers. Ford made a kajillion coupes and they are not nearly as desirable so the prices don't get way up there.
The 390 is a big block, same block as the 428 I believe, but just not punched out as much. That means it is a heavy motor. The car will go in a straight line fast, but won't corner for crap without major suspension work.

1967 Mustang
Check the 5th VIN digit and make sure it is an "S". If not, it came from the factory with a smaller motor and the suspension may be inadequate. (in fact, all original mustang suspensions were inadequate...that's one thing that needs to get upgraded in all cases.
I've restored many Mustangs over the years. I have a 69 Mach I and a 70 Mach I right now. My dad also happens to have a great project car if someone wants one to build up. It's a '67 Fastback. It's in good shape but needs some body work and a re-assembly. I totally lost interest when I got into road racing and he's not up to restoring cars anymore. I think he wants around $5k for it as is. (1967 Fastback = valuable once restored)