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#1
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safety wire?Need a little info. I've got the diagrams from LRRS's website on which way to twist and how to wire and all that junk, I've wired a couple bolts and such on Dan's bike a couple times this past season (hopefully that turn 1 crash wasn't my fault ) . Which bolts do I need to wire though and what do I wire some of them to if it's only a single bolt/nut? The axle nut for example? Also, what size drill bit, and is there a certain type of bit? I've been told to keep spraying with WD40 or some other lubricant to keep the heat down while drilling and to make sure the force on the drill is linear. Should I drill the the stuff while it's on the bike or do I have to take everything up to RMBBIKE's house tomorrow afternoon to use his table vise and drink all his beer? thanks kids |
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#2
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safety wire?wire anything you don't want to lose. Caliper bolts, axle pinch bolts, exhaust bracket, rear axle, and chain tensioners, oil filler cap & drain plug. Suggested: brake pad pins, handle bar grips, ignition key, transponder bracket & cotter pin. Anything I missed Degs? Oh, if there's beer, do that; else, leave the fasteners on the bike. |
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#3
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safety wire?Buy about fifteen 1/16th drill bits and Go here... http://www.slideruleracing.com/Workshop/srprep.htm Last edited by Paul_E_D : 01-07-05 at 06:21 PM. |
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#4
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safety wire?I "think" you need to have the brake pad pins wired, i know mine were checked once while on the pre grid. I got a lecture on safety wire by the older guy in tech and he checks everything and lets nothing slide (which is the way it should be). I had a little bit of slack in the wire between both mounting points and he said it has to be tight like a guitar string, so be sure to spend the extra time and make it as tight as you can. I used a cordless drill and bought some 1/16" cobalt drill bits, buy at least 10 of them. WD40 works great as a lube for drilling as well. Most bolts on my bike were easy access so i drilled them in place. Drilling them in place will also make sure the hole is in the proper possition so it can be wired in a way it can't losen up. I think your allowed up to a 6" span in the wire from one point to the other so finding a spot for that lonely bolt shouldn't be a problem ![]() |
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#5
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safety wire?Call me bizarre but I've found used m/c specific dino oil works killer for drilling nasty stuff. It's cheap too Use cobalt bits and you'll need <15 too (DeWalt and Craftsman both offer these) if else the Bosch ones (TiN coated, not Cobalt, but still cheap and 2x a pack) work decently. Definetely get yourself a vise, I got a cheesy drillpress vice @ HD for 10$ and it works better then the 20$ jig I bought did. An automatic centerpunch comes in really handy too if your bits like walking on the harder stuff. If you need a funky jig for drilling hex head bolts or whatnot (or think it would be of value) drop me a line I'm right around the corner from you. |
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#6
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safety wire?any oil will help the bits last longer, cutting oil is preferred brake pads retaining pins are NOT required, just suggested. required items for LRRS are: oil fill oil drain oil filter water drain (if it has one) outer header exhaust bolts muffler hanger bolts calipers mount bolts (front and rear) axle pinch bolts front axle rear axle should have R-clip held with safety wire i also do: exhaust connector springs grips (prevents them from twisting on you) items I have seen done which are not necessary but might be considered good ideas: radiator cap brake retainer pins shift linkage brake banjo bolts (caliper and master cylinder) Others orgs such as WERA request you wire all the exhaust header bolts, the front engine galley plugs, as well as put a dap of silicone over the side engine cover plug (where you can access the crank bolt). I don't think I forgot anything ![]() |
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#7
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safety wire?Pages 20 thru 22 in LRRS rulebook............. ![]() |
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#8
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safety wire?Quote:
Nah, that would require Hessogood to put down the ho's and cameras, AND have reading comprehension. ![]() |
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#9
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safety wire?PB blaster works as a good cutting oil too. and not mentioned yet... keep the drill on a low speed! High speed will heat, blue, dull and break your bit quick. You dont want a fatigued hunk of drill bit snapping off in your hole.. That is a MAJOR PAIN THE ASS to remove if its "in" the hole with no parts sticking out to grab with pliers. |
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#10
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MOST IMPORTANT!!!!WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES!!!! Those small hardened bits fly like crazy when they break. I was drilling with no shirt on once and one embedded in my chest! Had to have the wife do some digging to get it out. Imagine if that was your eyeball! Lecture over, Lets race already!!!! |
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#11
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safety wire?Quote:
Quote:
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#12
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safety wire?where can I grab a copy of that book? |
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#13
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safety wire?Quote:
We'll be having a staff meeting at the banquet to review the suggestions, along with corrections and any ideas to add to the draft. Once we're done reviewing everything, the rulebook will be sent to the printers. The only stuff different for the upcoming year is the rider classifcations, points structure, and advancement criteria. Also some gaps in the rules are filled regarding red flagged races. |
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#14
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safety wire?Riders Number on the helmet? That's funny. Let LRRS blaze that that path! Why not riders name and number on leathers too....just like baseball or football!.....ooooh..that hurt to say that. |
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#15
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safety wire?Quote:
The purpose is to help CW's and safety crew identify a rider in the case of a multiple bike incident and you don't know who belongs with which bike number for indentification. |
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#16
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safety wire?Quote:
I'm checking the 2004 rulebook, and the number on the helmet was already required. I don't know why it was underlined in the 2005 draft. This was something passed down from CCS that made sense, so we went with it right away. |
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#17
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safety wire?think i'll resurect this thread.... just lookin at the oil drain plug... she's gonna be a whore, ain't she anyone recommend drilling just a little ways into it, then tryin to stab it from the top at a slight angle making an L or \_ in it? or maybe drilling diagonally through the side at a 45* & punchin out the top? figured that might be a little easier than tryin to go through a full 17mm of bitch Last edited by OreoGitorio : 03-19-05 at 01:56 PM. |
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#18
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safety wire?I wouldn't bother to drill all the way through. Get the bit started and slowly angle the bit as you're drilling, just be carefull when the bit starts to come out the bolt head on a angle, it'll probably brake the bit. The only bolts i fully drilled on my bike were the 8mm ones, all the rest had that little outer ring on them which is great for just getting a corner hole.![]() |
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#19
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safety wire?ahhh, i gotcha... aight, my drain plug has that lip but i wasn't sure if it was enough... i'll try & use that like you did. definitely alot easier than drillin through 17mm of bitch thanks for the pic bro |
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#20
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safety wire?How does one attach the safety wire to the hose clamp around the oil filter? |
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#21
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safety wire?Check out the website Paul posted up... they got this pic ![]() |
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#22
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safety wire?Anybody got a pic of their thier helmet with race numers on it? What size are the numbers...decals or paint.....what color?.....assuming that the numbers must be able to be seen clearly...black helmet..white or yellow numbers?????..And now you have a fancy replica paint scheme...so what color should be used? |
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#23
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safety wire?Here's the ones that Degs got for the team last year to give you an idea of what they should be like. A lot of people just put a peice of duct tape on their helmet and just put their number on with a sharpy |
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#24
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safety wire?Yeah, trackdog. I think you're misunderstanding the purpose. It's not so people can see it from a distance. It's just in case of a multi rider pile up, the EMTs can quickly ID you even if you are unconcious and they can check you medical record for any issues... |
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#25
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safety wire?Pete hit me up if you need a hand with the wiring. I've gotten pretty damn good at it. |
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