Idling issues with my EX500

[luukasama]

Hey guys,

So now that Spring is finally here (and I'm not freezing my ass off in the garage or outside), I decided to do some maintenance and clean my carbs to start. As I took them out, I was reminded of the idling issue I had and was wondering if there's something else I need to check, so here goes:

Before winter, I noticed that my Kawasaki started having idling issues. What basically happened is that I would take it out, start it and let out the choke to warm it up for about 15 - 20 minutes. Normally, that's enough and everything is golden. However, whenever I would slow down a stop, the bike would just idle out. It would generally sit at 1.5k rpms, but kept going to 1 and below, which of course would make it stall. This would happen for about an additional half an hour past the original warm up time. I would have to keep the throttle constantly revved for that additional period when I stopped, otherwise it would stall. After a while, this issue goes away. Is there any reason it would do this, and why? Do I have to adjust my idle level, if I'm saying this right, and if so, is it because the idle level just drops overtime or something?

Any info would be appreciated. I'd like to take care of this issue before I finish cleaning the carbs and put everything back together. Still learning, so don't hate on me, please. Thank you in advance.

[TheIglu]

It's your low speed jets. A good (and completely thorough) carb cleaning will resolve it. Make sure you can blast carb cleaner through ALL the ports freely. Use the straw that comes with the can, that's what it's there for.

Have you drilled out the little aluminum plugs that cover up your low speed jet adjustment holes? You'll need to if not. Then gently tighten them first until they stop (GENTLY, don't keep going!), counting the turns as you go for each one. Then remove them completely making sure you get out the spring/o-ring/washer. It's best to do all the work over a clean plastic tub so you aren't chasing down parts on the floor.

You'll have to google it to find out the best initial adjustment on those, but setting them back to what they were is also a good option. See this link for pictures of what I'm talking about, though keep in mind that this tutorial also has a jet kit install in it which you aren't doing:

http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...27s_Airbox_Mod

The other option is water in your gas. I'd drain it all out and start with a fresh tank.

[b0xmonkey]

^^What he said^^ Also if you can, I'd balance them when you get it all back together. Often overlooked.

[aldend123]

I think the guys above are likely right.

But if that isn't it, I had a similar issue and it was my valve lash. IIRC, the funky idle started first, then difficult to start, followed by impossible to start. Before it was impossible to start, I thought for sure it was the carbs and was very surprised to take them apart and find them clean.

[TheIglu]

I think the guys above are likely right.

But if that isn't it, I had a similar issue and it was my valve lash. IIRC, the funky idle started first, then difficult to start, followed by impossible to start. Before it was impossible to start, I thought for sure it was the carbs and was very surprised to take them apart and find them clean.

That tends to happen and get worse when hot (valves getting tighter to the point where then never close all the way once hot). This seems to be opposite of that.

[TheIglu]

^^What he said^^ Also if you can, I'd balance them when you get it all back together. Often overlooked.

That reminds me, don't take them off the "rack" unless absolutely necessary. Right now they are at least somewhat sync'd to each other. Leave them bolted together and just rebuild them both. Then you won't be adding another variable into the troubleshooting process. Then once she idles and runs halfway decent, you can sync the carbs to smooth it out.

[luukasama]

Hmm, I am in the process of cleaning the carbs right now and they look spick and span to me, if those are the right words. I've had to nearly remove the airbox to get the carbs out, what a pain in the ass that was. I'll still go ahead and spray it through, but I don't have much confidence that this will do anything, so I'll try to take a look at the pilot screws (is that what it means by low speed jets? I can't find any good info).

BTW, what is a valve lash? I know that the valves must be adjusted sometimes and I've seen my boyfriend check their clearances, but I've never hard of a "valve lash."

[TheIglu]

Lash is clearances. So if that has been checked, you are good.

Yes, pilot screws/low speeds jets are the same terminology in my mind. There are some technical differences in reality but for our purposes, it's those screws under the caps.

[TheIglu]

How old are the spark plugs? If you are going this far, it may be in your best interest just to change those out with fresh ones if they are old.

[Tunertype]

Also check your boots for cracks. A leak could cause problems.

[luukasama]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the advice. Learned new terminology and how to clean carbs now! They have now been reassembled and the pilot screws set back to 2 1/2 turns, so we will see what happens. The only thing that I noticed was fairly dirty were the main jet and pilot get needles. Not dirty as in gunk in them, but their color was a very muted brass color, and after I soaked them in the carb cleaner, they certainly regained their shine.

I did not think of the spark plugs at all. I don't think they were changed out before I got the bike, and certainly not after. So I guess I am overdue for that. Thanks for the reminder. I'll add that to my list of things I need to get at Autozone.

Tuner, what do you mean by boot? I thought it meant like the boot that's covering the spark plugs, but it looks like that's not it. I did not see any kind of leaks, but better be safe than sorry.

[TheIglu]

Boots as in what connects the carbs to the engine. If they are dried out and cracked, you'll get air leaks and it'll run lean.

[jasnmar]

I know nothing about the EX, but I assumed Tunertype was referring to rubber boots that are used to connect the carbs to the heads (if it's constructed anything like my I4).

Probably part 16065 in http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oe.../cylinder-head, called a "Holder - Carburetor"

[luukasama]

Gotcha, I understand now. Everything looked to be fine. The boots did not seem cracked, and all the hoses seemed good to me.

HOWEVER!! I did find something curious which may have been the cause of my issues. I found this out only because I had to take the airbox apart to get the damn carbs out. Glad I did. The breather tube that's attached to the bottom of the airbox, like a leech I might add, was found to be actually loose and popped off the engine. There was enough grease on there that I wasn't able to pop the thing back on until I cleaned it, which I did. Seems to be stuck on there, but I'm wondering if I should ziptie it just in case?

The only thing I've got left now is to refill the coolant (I drained it as part of the process), replace a broken fuse, rewire the turn signals (it's like a fucking chimera, I swear), and put the fairings back. I've had to epoxy one plastic piece that broke when I got into the accident with my best friend. I think I wrote about it here. My bottom fairing is half destroyed because of it, but no other damage to the bike. In any case, I'll let you guys know how it goes once I get this all back together! Thank you so much for the advice.