well if you need some extra ones to play with, I will have some for sale. I think I currently have 1's and 3's (whatever gives 29mm and 31mm offsets) with the matching Scotts damper mounts. Also have the 0's they come with, no damper mount.
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well if you need some extra ones to play with, I will have some for sale. I think I currently have 1's and 3's (whatever gives 29mm and 31mm offsets) with the matching Scotts damper mounts. Also have the 0's they come with, no damper mount.
easy 675 motor in a R6 frame.:naughty
Posse Adjustable Steering Stem WrenchQuote:
Originally Posted by island boyeee
tempting... thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Kurlon
I carry mine with me in my track tool box. Damn handy on bikes. If you're at NHMS for the opening round I'll have it with me.Quote:
Originally Posted by island boyeee
just ordered one for $32 shipped on fleabay. thanks for pushing me to finally do it! very few tools missing from my collection, this was one of them. Guess I'll ride this weekend with the inserts currently installed.
+1 carry it all the time
McMaster-Carr
So after riding Savas' bike...I had to have a quick shifter. I viewed all my options, or at least what I thought were options. Stand alone Bazzaz and PC quickshifters are a fortune and may require hard-wiring. OEM Triumph units won't work cause my bike is too old.
I ended up going with Annitori. It is a strain based gauge. The earlier versions received a lot of complaints as it would sometime kill the engine on downshifts. However, in their latest version, they've allowed you to de-activate any direction you want. This means there is no hassle with push vs pull...you can just turn off the direction you don't want to use. It is incredibly easy too. It bluetooth connects to your phone and allows you to turn off/on push or pull, adjust the sensitivity, adjust the kill time, and adjust the RFX (whatever that is) in both directions. They give you recommended settings and then let you adjust. It only took a few rips down the street to have it dialed in. Its a pretty slick looking set-up, I'd say the right amount of cable length, and lots of color options. I was able to store everything in my battery tray since the lithium ion battery I have is tiny. I used all those foam pieces that Shorai gives you to snug it up ever better.
I was able to test it out at Palmer on Sunday and it worked flawlessly. It was pretty wet out too, and it held up great to the elements. Not even a glitch.
$260 with a shift-rod.
The sound of that bike. :giggity:
Couldn't agree more. For those of you who have not heard the pleasure of the noise a triple makes...Quote:
Originally Posted by Rada
https://www.facebook.com/1823786/vid...26091004642836
I dug through my box of parts and found that I actually have the #2 inserts with damper mounts. So I got my scotts back on with the new settings. Woot! I ride Loudon next and I don't think no damper is a good idea! I can't believe I rode it like that at Thompson with the busted rib. Tank slappers HURT.
I guess I need to start pushing the pace, I have been running without a damper and not having any problems. I may need to grab few laps in your tow at Loudon next week and see what I can do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_E_D
The 7-8 flip was always a tank slapper on the motard...if it wasn't that was a sign I wasn't on the gas nearly hard enough.
Corner speed was never my strong point. I typically got it done on the brakes and getting back on the gas hard. This is easy to do on a motard for a few reasons: they're light so they stop real well, they have much less power so there is very little fear of 100% cracking open the throttle, and my front end had so much damn rake to it that it would chatter almost instantaneously.
With a big bike, this has all completely changed, and corner speed is something I'm working on this season. A can't stress enough how much this past Sunday at Palmer helped. It was wet in the morning, had a drying track, and an eventual dry track. Temps were never warm, and there was a stiff, cool breeze that was taking a lot of heat from the pavement. Running street tires (Q3s) in the rain and then a cool track really helped me get a feel for when things start to slip. Dealing with a drying track helped taper into it. This was probably one of the most informative days I've ever had. Never leave a wet track day. Ever. Once it dried out, I felt pretty tight on the bike, the front end did not feel planted and I struggled to lean it over anywhere near as much as Thompson a couple weekends ago. It took me about one more session to realize this was just feedback, not something wrong with me or the bike. By the end of the day I was able to very safely approach this level around the whole track.
On Track Media LLC | TTD_Palmer_5-8-16
At Thompson the only issue is if you don't feather the gas over the crest onto the straight. I have had some crazy shit happen there. The 675 motor is perfect for that spot. Literally hold it pinned and loft the front wheel. The downhill run will cause it to automatically come back to earth just past the second bump. When you wimp out and feather it the wheel hits the second bump and it can get pretty harsh. Or the rear can spin while wheelieing...THat can get pretty wild too.
I short shifted that hill just about every lap on my bike. I kept it pinned, but never really had a major wheelie like you're talking about. Again, I think I need to bump up my pace to start needing a dampener.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_E_D
To 100% confirm your theory of that 675 being perfect for that spot....the only time I didn't short shift over that hill is when I road Savas's bike, because short shifting the r6 kinda made it fall on its face in that spot. I road a pretty large wheelie on his bike over that. It most definitely felt faster, but it also puckered up the butt hole a bit.
I shift before the hill for sure. I think a lot of people carry too much speed through the last turn and are not able to get the throttle wide open soon enough. It's a REALLY long straight. It's faster to roll off enough for that last turn, get the bike pointed with a sort of quick turn, and fire out on the gas really hard and early. Otherwise that whole zone after the last turn and before the crest is wasted at really high lean angle trying to get the bike pointed in the right direction to crest the hill.
Interesting..
Ooops, I shouldn't reveal all my secrets here. Someone might be listening...
Even an SV can wheelie through that spot. :twofingerQuote:
Originally Posted by JettaJayGLS
The bike is more than capable of wheelieing there. I decided to just be a pansy and prevent it.Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac_
Same here. I seldom wheelie Fanny over the hill. I respect the hill on that bike. Not so much on the SV...Quote:
Originally Posted by JettaJayGLS
That was just my poor attempt at saying what you said. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by JettaJayGLS
My sv never lifted even a little bit there.
Twist the throttle moreQuote:
Originally Posted by csmutty
Or do what I suggested... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Rada
All my research lead me to go with the Annitori as well, whenever I decide to dump more money into this thing.
I have #3 inserts up for grabs with the Scotts mount, if anyone is looking for a change. I went back to #1 with 5mm of fork showing (Riders Discount setup).
"wheelie hill" is definitely a make-or-break it spot for a lot of people at Thompson. I used to ride in 3rd, and shit myself with the wheelies/wobbles. Now I short-shift to 4th after the chicane (running -1/+1), and drift wide on the gas, roll off as I climb the hill and point it towards the pit out, so as I come over the hill I'm already standing it up and pinning it. I pass many 1000s here. The ones with extra balls will get back by me by the tower though.
I do find that I don't like the Scotts damper nearly as much as my GPR... wish they would make an attack mount.