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Is there any way to push the shifter forward from the foot peg a bit? I'm having a hard time managing to slip my foot under to shift up without having to feel around for it. It's fine in my sneakers, but I've been trying in my riding boots, which are a bit bulkier and considerably more stiff.
If it's like the older ones you'd have to get a longer shifter or do some welding.
If you're riding mostly upright (I'd assume you are) it may have been set up for a more "racey" look. It's REALLY easy/fast to move the shifter up rather than forward, and it very well may solve your issue.
Last edited by "Dangerous" Dan K; 04-25-11 at 06:29 PM.
Should be as simple as twisting the rod that connects the shift lever your toe hits to the "engine" (to keep it simple). Twist one way the shifter goes up, the other it goes down.
You will need to break the lock nuts (nuts on the shift rod) free in order to spin the rod freely. It should spin easily with your fingers. Tighten the nuts to lock it back in place. Watch the thread, make sure the nuts are being turned in the right direction.
If this doesn't make sense let me know. I'll try to find pics real quick as well, but wanted to get this out in case you were anxious to go try it.
edit: Just found a pic. The shifter/shift linkage is just like earlier years. Break the nuts free on the shift rod, twist rod to get preferred height, tighten nuts. Personally I would test the height wearing my riding boots in riding position (with bike on stand, center stand if there) and the nuts loose. Adjust until comfortable, then snug everything up.
Last edited by "Dangerous" Dan K; 04-25-11 at 06:38 PM.
Just looked and see exactly what you're talking about. I'll give it a try tomorrow and hopefully it works out. Thanks for the tip.
Since no one seems to have addressed it, blipping the throttle is a nice and proper way to smooth a downshift. Practice in a parking lot. I make my students do it over and over. It's rewarding when you do it well.
Something MSF won't typically teach: Keep your eyes level with the ground when you are cornering. MSF will teach you to keep your head up and look as far as you can see (good advice), but unless things have changed, they don't teach you to bend your neck so that your head remains upright and your eyes stay level. It helps depth perception and makes lean angles seem less scary.
Btw, the new 250's have a notorious long warm-up time for some reason. Until the weather really warms up you're going to need to use the more choke than you might think. As was said previously though, just flip the choke on, start riding and adjust it so that you idle normally (about 1200 to 1500K if I remember from mine correctly). You shouldn't have to use it for more than 10 minutes no matter what. I also have a full set of Shogun sliders that I never installed on mine. I'll be selling my bike as soon as I get it out of my buddy's garage and those are going to. PM me if you're interested.
I don't find my 250 to need a notoriously long warm up. Usually I'll put the choke around half way to full depending how cold it is. Then I'll get my helmet and gloves on and go. Usually within a mile or so from my house the choke is gone but I slowly bring it down.
As for the lurching with the downshifting I think that will go away the more you practice and ride it. I used to lurch as well downshifting but it starts to go away as you slow on letting out the clutch. Let me know if you have any questions, I'm not the most technical person to ask but this is my third season on a 250.
Don't know about anyone else, but personally, I find the mirrors absolutely useless on my bike. Aimed to see behind and to the side of me, all I get is a nice reflection of my arms. I have no way of seeing behind me without physically turning around.
Thanks for the tip. I had heard the keep the head up part, but never really thought about focusing on keeping it level. Thanks for the tip.
PM sent.
Yes it is a great bike. I met a guy last week who can afford to buy any bike he wanted, and he actually downsized and bought a new Ninja 250R because he feels that he can appreciate it more and doesn't need a long range motorcycle. I totally understand his reasoning as I watch him pin it when he rode off. I saw that model at GBM a few weeks ago Kawi did a great job with it (current blemishes notwitstanding).
That is a beautiful looking bike. I have a 1999 EX250 (Lime Green) and I will probably keep it as long as I can. It is just too much fun, very inexpensive to insure, and extremely reliable, but yours looks much more modern.
Anyone have an Arai helmet? I was attempting to change out the visor, and after I got it in, I decided to take it back out and in for practice. Noticed the tab in one of the pods doesn't seem to "click" when you push it up like the other one does, and seems to be a bit looser. This normal or did I break something?
That looks sick! You'll love the gas mileage too. Good choice for a first bike. Ride Safe![]()
2001 RC-51work in progress
1997 GSXR-600 track only-gone![]()
2001 CBR600 F4i-gone
2002 Suzuki Hayabusa-gone
Nice color scheme man. Try not to let the dings get to you. I've bought 3 brand new bike in the last 8 yrs and every one of them has had tiny blemishes. Shit happens.
That is a wonderful first (and even second!) bike. I would absolutely make the dealer fix that stuff. You paid for a brand new, mint bike.
As a side note, if you find it to be a little hard to start when it's cold, it's worth taking it apart to adjust the idle mixture. It's a pain in the ass but it helps the bike a lot. I did it to my friends 250 and it was worth the time.
I still love the first one. Dig this restored '86 or '7 at Ninjette blog:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=17521
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Last edited by KingCast 650R; 05-04-11 at 09:51 PM.
Hey great bike.. I think 2008 is when they started making the ninja 250's look awesome. Wish they updated the Ninja 500's, but the styling is still from 1994 for those.. (what I have).. If you get bored of the power on the 250, you can also just upgrade the engine. The 500 engine has double the HP and it's almost a direct bolt on replacement for the 250 engine in the 250 frame. Here's a link on the ex500 website of a really cool custom 250 with a 500 engine and a 180 rear tire from a gsxr and gsxr rear swingarm. http://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,30424.0.html
To prevent jerky downshifts rev the engine up to the right RPM and slip the clutch alot. It kinda sounds cool when you down shift and the engine RPM's jump up though. Gotta learn to slip the clutch alot on a 250 cause they can be a bit jerky in the low RPM going from 0 power to some power quickly. Compare that to a bigger big that has power off idle and needs little or no clutch control to get moving and drive smoothly. You don't even need a throttle on a big V-twin just idle it and shift the gears.
Heres a link on how to adjust your shifter. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...the_shifter%3F
Last edited by Tunertype; 05-06-11 at 12:01 AM.