0


OK, so I ran this bike as it came with the wimpy stock pegs, and it felt fine! I was faster on this bone stock bike than my Aprilia, so I said to myself I am not going to go down the path of rearsets and dialing in rearsets and fine tuning rearsets and fiddling with the angle of the shift rod and spline and all the other agonizing issues related to rearsets.
I just wanted more meaty pegs. So I went and bought these Chinese pegs that are a bit fatter, mount in the stock rearsets and are also 'adjustable'
As you can see in this photo, the peg is beefier and I got it to sit up a bit forward and higher than the stock peg. So far so good right?
But two problems. a) they are still folding pegs; I would have preferred fixed pegs that also act as a slider aka woodcraft pegs. b) the hardware they provided is totally wimpy and the whole peg seemed to have some give when I stood on it or tried to twist it by hand.
So I replaced the hardware with my own, these go in deeper and take more threads. The pegs feel more solid now. Generous use of Blue loctite of course.
So a couple of questions -
a) Do these seem kosher to you?
b) Is there a way to 'convert' folding pegs to fixed pegs? A simple google doesn't bring up anything. Any safe way to jam something in the bracket to keep the peg from folding up?
Last edited by xxaarraa; 07-23-17 at 02:09 PM.
I've actually got a set of those but never used them. The local kid I bought my Givi rack from had them on his bike when he totaled it and gave them to me. One of them got a little rashed but they survived the crash.
This post just reminded me I had them, and 2 weeks ago I was scraping pegs on my FZ6 at Palmer, so I might try then if I track the FZ6 again.
I don't know of any way to turn stock rearsets into folding pegs, sorry.
The peg must not have a notch to prevent it from spinning. Maybe just get one of those locking washers that bite into the metal between the bracket and peg.
Shoulda just bought woodceaft
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Isaac LRRS/CCS #871 ECK Racing | Spears Enterprises | GMD Computrack Boston | Pine Motorparts/PBE Specialists | Woodcraft | Street & Competition | MTag-Pirelli | OnTrack Media
Bike: SV650, Bride of Frankenstein
Weld
Hardware looks sketch. In general you want thread engagement that is 1.5x the diameter (M8 bolt, you would want 12mm engagement). That's for normal stuff. Footpegs see a ton of force, so you would ideally want a lot more. A longer bolt isn't going to fix the problem either, because that piece that fits into your clevis only looks like it's 10-12mm thick anyway. If a footpeg breaks off you're pretty much guaranteed to go down. Since you're familiar with rearsets, go look at a quality set. Generally an M10 bolt with around 30mm engagement.
That said, I have no problem riding sketchy shit, so if you're going to keep them, at least make sure you have some grade 8.8 or 10.9 screws.
Cool design, though.
OK so an update on this. After a brief and successful collusion with China, I chickened out and did the right thing and threw Woodcraft rearsets on. The Chinese pegs held up fine for the three days I used them, so no diss on them, but I just didn't have the stomach to put up with the continued anxiety on something as critical as foot pegs on a race bike.
I left my shift pedal alone on the left side so it was a breeze. Right side was very intricate on this bike due to all the plumbing (combined braking) but it all went together perfectly as you'd expect from Woodcraft.
![]()
Last edited by xxaarraa; 08-30-17 at 10:15 AM.
I don't care for Yamahas, but the yellow & black paint scheme is![]()
'02 Ducati 998, '08 Ducati HyperMotard 1100S, '14 Subaru XV Crosstrek