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Day 1 - Saturday, July 5th
Unlike the past 6 Canadian Sport Tours, this year I decided to forgo the Maritimes and explore some some of the hinterlands of Quebec and Ontario. While there were definately some great sites, next year its back to Nova Scotia, Cape Breton and PEI!
John and I met at the Shell station off EXIT 5 in Londonderry at 7:00. It was foggy and rather than spend time on familiar roads we agreed to slab north to the border.
A few miles north of Concord we broke out of the fog and by 8:00 as we approached Franconia Notch the weather had turned perfect. The early morning light off the cliffs, the nearly empty roads, and the 70 degree temperature made this one of the nicest 'slabs' I have ever ridden!
We crossed the border at Ct. Lakes and after a short and friendly chat, crested the hill and looked down over a plateau between the mountains in southern Quebec.
The rest of the day we rode more or less due North, stopping for lunch at an oversized trailer in some little town. In addition to dogs and burgers they also offered up Poutine. (Poutine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) In the Maritimes this classic Quebecois comfort food of french frys, gravy and curds is pronounced 'Poo taine' but in Quebec its 'Poots in' ...sort of!
Mid afternoon found us in Trois Riviers north of the St. Lawrence. We pushed though this city and followed the river about half way to Quebec City where we checked in to a small Motel in St. Anne De La Perade.
The weekend we were here was the 400th anniversary of Quebec City and there were TONS of bikers everywhere. It got to the point where I simply got sick of waving but everyone waves to everyone there and the folks are really friendly!
After dinner we got talking with a couple of Quebec couples that were staying at the same motel. This guy was awesome and gave me a ride in his sidecar! What a riot!!!
Not to be outdone, his buddy insisted I take his 97 Custom Harley for a spin...
Once I got it rolling it was surprisingly comfortable and pulled like a tractor! This picture doesn't show it but it was beautifully painted and had lots of bling.
Day 2 - Sunday, July 6th
Sunday dawned with clear skys and after a quick breakfast we continued northeast along the St. Lawrence. While not the sort of road sought out by sportbike riders, it was very enjoyable and scenic and encouraged a relaxed, moderate pace! Once I accepted it for what it was I found it to be most satisfying.
We found our way through and around Quebec City, (Zumo rocks), continued along the St. Lawrence, and stopped for a quick break at this tourist information spot somewhere near St. Anne de Beaupres.
Just before we turned off the St. Lawrence we stopped at Baie St. Paul, a scenic small city famous as a Whale Watching site. The weather was holding and we took a few pictures, including this one snapped by a couple from Quebec whose daughter lives in Nashua and works for one of my customers! Small world...
View without the disctractions of the old guys..
Whale watching tour operator...
At this point we joined Rt. 170 which wound its way due north and became the Fiord Route as it followed the Saguenay River toward Lac St. Jean. The stretch before it reached the river was astonishing. If was like riding through Yosomite with many more 'El Cap' like cliffs, bluffs and mountains. It was also an awesome 'sporty' road and after the previous day and a half of 'touring' I was unable to stop the 'spirited' pace long enough to slow down or stop for pictures. You'll have to take my word for it but this piece of road...about 50 miles...is worth the ride!
Once we reached the river we took a couple detours to little towns along the way and had a quick lunch in L'Anse St. Jean. On the way we passed this waterfall...which gives a little bit of an idea what I was trying to describe...
Unfortunatly we also arrived at the tail end of a fire that completely destroyed what looked to be a restaurant/gift shop...
Once we reached Chicoutimi the road followed Lac St. Jean. Compared to the riding earlier this was a bit of a slog and when we arrived in St. Felician we were happy to check in to La Maison de Cedre, an absolutly perfect B&B right on the river. (La Maison De Cedre)
Our room was really nice with giant down thingys you sleep on top of and dark cedar walls and ceilings. And the whole place was plunked down in the middle of these nice gardens...
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After sitting for a while by the river, John and I had dinner at a nice place in town.
Gillaine, the owner, was very friendly and even insisted we park our, by now fairly filthy, bikes in her garage. Sweet! Unfortunatly, if you are considering a visit to Lac St. Jean, she tells me that the Quebec Minister of Health has made an offer to buy Maison de Cedre which she will probably accept...
Day 3 - Monday, July 7th
After Gillaine served up a wonderful breakfast, we loaded up and headed north and west along Rt. 167. About 150 miles of dull, flat, terrain running through awful Spruce forests that were decimated by logging, fire and acid rain,
brought us to Chibougamau...a non-descript town in the middle of nowhere.
However, finer attention to the small things did bring a little color into the scenery...even if it was hard to see cruising along at or above a ton...!
From there, another 150 miles west and south along Rt. 113 of the same, and dropped us into Val-d'Or. We checked into a 'Business' motel catering to sales and technical folk servicing the mining and logging industrys. Val-d'Or (Gold Valley?), is a mining town...mostly gold...and riding into town you're greated by a huge Open Pit mine. The main street is a 5 or 6 block stretch of Saloons, Bars, and Clubs. But seedy, not cool.
After a remarkably bad meal at a Chinese joint, we retired to our room and tried to decipher French weather reports...
Day 4 - Tuesday, July 8th
I woke up at 6:15 and pulled back the curtains. Rain...hard rain...greeted me. John and I had breakfast in the motel and by the time we got back to the room the rain had slowed to a very soft drizzle. We loaded up our geat, anxious to put the past two days behind us, and looking forward to nicer riding and scenery!
We headed west and south out of Quebec and crossed into Ontario mid morning. It continued to spit but we were both well equipped so we just smiled and rode on!
The riding was much nicer, the signs back in English, and the weather gradually improved. On the way to North Bay we passed through beautiful farm country and miles of these golden fields.
I always see these when I ride through Canada on my CSTs and could never figure out what they were. I finally asked someone and was informed that these are Canola fields. (Here's another ...not mine!)
We pulled into North Bay Ontario about 3:00 and found a rough hewn but clean motel/lodge right on Lake Nipissing. (I assume this name was a Native American joke that we failed to catch...)
Here's a view from out room...
...and a view OF our room!
After hanging stuff up to dry, riding to a car wash to spray off our bikes, and relaxing by the lake for a couple hours, we walked next door to the White Owl Bistro for an astonishing and memorable meal. If you are ever in North Bay...(begging the question of why)...this unassuming little restaurant is worth seeking out...!
The White Owl Bistro Dinner Menu
Day 5 - Wednesday, July 9th
We rose to a grey drizzle which and mostly stopped by the time we loaded our gear. We discussed whether to cover our tank bags and after scanning the sky, licking my finger and sticking it up, and sniffing the air, I concluded there would be no need as it would soon burn off. At that very instant it began raining in earnest and we quickly donned gear and covered out tank bags.
We headed due south and the weather eventually cleared. After a couple stops to shed gear we entered Algonquin Park and had a nice sporty ride through wonderful twisty roads, elevation changes, and countless little lakes. From there we continued east to Calaboogie where we stopped at the track for a few minutes. Then we had a quick lunch in town and turned south on Rt. 511. This was a really fun, fast ride with sweeper after sweeper running though farm and dairy lands. From Perth, an pretty little town...
...we followed the Zumo to the border where we stopped at the 1000 Islands Skydeck Tower. The moment we stepped out of the elevator at the 400' top of this tower the weather had cleared and we had wonderful views of the 1000 islands!
After an uneventful border crossing we quickly found our way to Alexandria Bay, a funky little town in the heart of the 1000 Islands.
We soon checked into Captain Thomsons Resort Motel right on the seaway with this view from our deck.
After dinner we hung out at the Marina for a while....
...watched the sunset...
...and retired early!
Day 6 - Thursday, July 10th
I programmed the Zumo to get us into the Daks as quickly as possible and by 8:00 we were into the park and swooping along the seemingly endless set of roads offered up by this favorite of mine! We stopped in Tupper Lake for a hearty breakfast at the Lumberjack Inn!
Even though the ride from Alexandria Bay to Lake Placid can be done in a couple hours, my route was far from direct and included tiny back roads, a little dirt, park roads with tight turns and long sweepers, lots of highs and lows and lakes, rivers, fields, and forests.
We checked into the Crowne Plaza in Lake Placid about 2:00. This is one of my favorite destinations! This hotel sits atop a hill right up from main street and the Lake Placid Olympic Hockey Stadium. There are beautiful views of Mirror Lake, the Ski Jump hill, and the surrounding area.
After a quick whirlpool we walked around downtown and eventually decided to go see Hancock which was playing in their wonderful 'old fashioned' theatre. I liked the movie!
Afterward we walked a bit more and visited several shops.
Then a short ride to Saranac Lake for dinner at the Historic Hotel Saranac. Will take a pass on that next time as the food was overcooked and the menu uninspired.
Day 7 - Friday, July 11th
Up early and an hour ride to Ticondaroga for breakfast at the famous Hot Biscuit Diner which specializes in Biscuits and Gravy (aka SOS).
Then a short ride to the Ft. Ticondoroga Ferry where John chatted up a 70 year old women who was setting off on a 100 mile bicycle ride! Seriously...
Accross the river I spotted a weird looking boat and asked our Captain about it. Apparently its a 'Harvestor' that they run up and down the river to control Millfoil, a parasitic plant that can clog waterways and kill native plants. It was remarkable to watch it work down river with the huge wheel churning the water like an old fashioned paddlewheel.
The rest of the trip was a great ride through VT, over the App Gap where a deer ran in front of me just after exiting one of the tighter turns! Then more back roads past St. Gaudens and on home by early afternoon.
All told 2300 miles, no tickets, no crashes, and real rain for less than 1/2 a day. Another successful CST in the books and planning for 2009 underway!
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Originally Posted by mycirus
