GP Shift

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Originally Posted by CEO

If you switch to a bigger gear, then it would be MORE necessary for you to shift there, because you will probably hit the rev limiter before the treehouse.

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I don't downshift for 6, then I get kind of a bad drive out, and I don't hit the limiter at all before 9. I probably should be downshifting for 6 currently. I am hoping that with the 46 rear, I can get a good drive out of 6 without downshifting for it, then graze the limiter as I come by the treehouse.

First time I used GP shift was during an endurance race upon Maddie. After the first practice session I never had to think twice about it. Don't let muscle memory be an excuse not to use it, it really isn't that hard.

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Originally Posted by Paul_E_D

If everyone did what they were comfortable with, no one would ever get faster!

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I agree with that sentiment, but my guess is Petorious has more time to be gained by focusing his $10 worth of attention elsewhere...

I guess if he has any other bikes he's gonna ride with STD shift (street, track, or dirt) I'd recommend sticking with STD, cause it's going to consume some attention every time he gets on the GP shift bike.

If he's only going to ride GP shift bikes, take the plunge - it's only an investment of $38 plus half a day or so to get used to GP enough to form an opinion on it.

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Originally Posted by CEO

If I could have changed my motard to GP I would have.

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When I dream about spending time and money I don't have, I think about either using a linkage on the motard or having somebody fabricate a reverse shift drum. But among various reasons, I suspect that would make the bike harder vs. easier to sell when the time comes. I mean, there might be one guy out there that REALLY wants GP on a motard, but would probably find 20 guys that would pass on the bike for it for every one that wanted it.

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Originally Posted by Ductard

I agree with that sentiment, but my guess is Petorious has more time to be gained by focusing his $10 worth of attention elsewhere...

I guess if he has any other bikes he's gonna ride with STD shift (street, track, or dirt) I'd recommend sticking with STD, cause it's going to consume some attention every time he gets on the GP shift bike.

If he's only going to ride GP shift bikes, take the plunge - it's only an investment of $38 plus half a day or so to get used to GP enough to form an opinion on it.



When I dream about spending time and money I don't have, I think about either using a linkage on the motard or having somebody fabricate a reverse shift drum. But among various reasons, I suspect that would make the bike harder vs. easier to sell when the time comes. I mean, there might be one guy out there that REALLY wants GP on a motard, but would probably find 20 guys that would pass on the bike for it for every one that wanted it.

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So you think someone is going to buy your motard by the time you are done with it!? :)

EDIT: I guess I should clarify. I am not making any insinuations about how you ride. I am just saying I have seen you work on it all night in the garage with questionable tools.

Why are people avoiding shifting? GET YOUR BIKE IN THE RIGHT GEAR. It will be much faster. It's not a CVT or an auto. Max torque only happens for a short while even on a twin. Take advantage of it.

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Originally Posted by Paul_E_D

It's not hard to learn...It's not a complex action, and it is very intuitive once you make the switch.

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...unless you're switching back and forth. Then... *hypothetically* you might grab a downshift instead of an upshift going into T6 on Thunderbolt and have the slipper clutch save your bacon. Now if only there was a thread where we could expound on the virtues of slipper clutches....

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Originally Posted by Paul_E_D

Why are people avoiding shifting? GET YOUR BIKE IN THE RIGHT GEAR. It will be much faster. It's not a CVT or an auto. Max torque only happens for a short while even on a twin. Take advantage of it.

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I don't have a good answer for that. I swear the bike is sketchy on the transition from off/on throttle in higher RPMs. Like if I downshift into 6, or especially sometimes when I am in 2nd gear in 11 (occasionally happens on the outlap or after a "moment" has thrown me off elsewhere). And the SV power seems to trail off at the end anyway.

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Originally Posted by Ductard

...unless you're switching back and forth. Then... *hypothetically* you might grab a downshift instead of an upshift going into T6 on Thunderbolt and have the slipper clutch save your bacon. Now if only there was a thread where we could expound on the virtues of slipper clutches....

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This is precisely what is in my future. The motard is regular with no slipper and other bikes are GP.

The power trails on and off. Your job is to shift to keep the bike in it's max acceleration zone. It might be 1500rpms wide. It is certainly not at the TOP of the revs , but it's not at the bottom either. Downshifting into the bowl is obvious. You go from 100 to 55mph. You think that it will be optimal to just try to dig out of that hole?

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Originally Posted by Ductard

...unless you're switching back and forth.

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It can't be as difficult as this.

https://youtu.be/MFzDaBzBlL0

Also, what's short shift? CEO used it in a sentence...

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Originally Posted by isaac_

Also, what's short shift? CEO used it in a sentence...

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Upshifting before the limiter. I do this at Thompson prior to the crest, otherwise I hit the limiter right as I come over the crest.

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Originally Posted by isaac_

It can't be as difficult as this.

https://youtu.be/MFzDaBzBlL0

Also, what's short shift? CEO used it in a sentence...

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Not sure if you are being sarcastic, but I'll give it a go. You shift up into the next higher gear before you max out the powerband in current gear. An engine spinning at lower RPM is easier to shift side to side (Turns 6-7-8) quickly than an engine spinning at higher RPM. Centrifugal force.

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Originally Posted by xxaarraa

An engine spinning at lower RPM is easier to shift side to side (Turns 6-7-8) quickly than an engine spinning at higher RPM. Centrifugal force.

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Never thought about that. Interesting.

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Originally Posted by Ductard

...unless you're switching back and forth.

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I had a GP R6 and a motard plus a duc streetbike and rode all three back to back at the track... not a problem. Before the end of pit road, you're already good to go.

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Originally Posted by Petorius

Never thought about that. Interesting.

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I should have quoted Eric Wood. Straight out of his mouth.

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Originally Posted by xxaarraa

I should have quoted Eric Wood. Straight out of his mouth.

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I have noticed that he pops the upshift between 6-7, like CEO describes.

Actually all you amateur guys on SVs should continue not downshifting for 6 and not shifting at all in the back part of the track... ;)

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Originally Posted by xxaarraa

Not sure if you are being sarcastic, but I'll give it a go. You shift up into the next higher gear before you max out the powerband in current gear. An engine spinning at lower RPM is easier to shift side to side (Turns 6-7-8) quickly than an engine spinning at higher RPM. Centrifugal force.

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Nope. Not sarcastic. First time hearing the term.

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Originally Posted by CEO

Actually all you amateur guys on SVs should continue not downshifting for 6 and not shifting at all in the back part of the track... ;)

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CEO you should just go ahead and bump to EX for the classic... :D

LOL not even close bud... 23s... need more seat time to feel this thing out. Shit I still need to change the oil and check the sag. haha.

You, on the other hand...

Would you mind passing along the part number once you've confirmed he will make the part available separately? For $38 its worth a try. Doesn't have to be reversible for that kind of money.

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Originally Posted by Petorius

Looks like the critical component to switch the new standard Woodcraft SV rearsets to GP shift is only $38 on its own. I will confirm with Eric. Seems like there is an opportunity here for him to make a reversible component, although I'm sure that has already been considered.

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I hope he doesn't mind me sharing, but he confirmed that it can be done easily. He said there are a few other little pieces needed (shift rod and some hardware), but that it is not a big deal. I did not ask for prices or part numbers.

I seriously don't understand the not shifting as much thing, especially on the SV's? You are bogging that motor unless you are carrying ridiculous speed all around? The twin needs some shifting. Just do it!

And as for GP, I did it and never looked back. Since I mostly track ride, I converted the SV to it as well. Sometimes it messy me up on the dirt bike, but not as often as I thought it would. But like someone said, try it at a track day if you do it.

I fully admit to being slow and really bad at this. It's likely that shifting more (and backward too!) would make me faster. Especially if Paul says so.

I will simply add that I think some of you are approaching this from the other side of the learning curve.

Tons of expert, very experienced, downright talented riders have recommended the shift sequence I use. Either they were being massive dicks leading me astray on purpose.. or it is actually a reasonable strategy to run the SV like a tractor and focus on corner speed instead at this stage of the game.

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Originally Posted by nhbubba

Tons of expert, very experienced, downright talented riders have recommended the shift sequence I use. Either they were being massive dicks leading me astray on purpose.. or it is actually a reasonable strategy to run the SV like a tractor and focus on corner speed instead at this stage of the game.

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Riding advice is never universal. We all have to evaluate every piece of advice we receive. That's part of the magic. For every fundamental skill I learned in my red group TDs, there is a fast guy at Loudon doing the opposite with great results.