hyperpro steering damper

Oh it's something you'll notice. I guarantee.

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Originally Posted by bergs

Oh it's something you'll notice. I guarantee.

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Then I guess the answer is still no, I haven't felt any head shake between T7 and T8.

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Originally Posted by bergs

Oh it's something you'll notice. I guarantee.

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:stupid:
I dont have one on either of my current bikes. Dont need one. Loose on the bars is good enough.

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Originally Posted by 07BladeRider

Then I guess the answer is still no, I haven't felt any head shake between T7 and T8.

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Try opening the throttle, That bike would shake there even with a damper. very predictable and easy but every lap.

I have never felt the need for a damper on a motard or a Hawk. I am pretty sure I could ride that sv without one.

It will be a memorable time, Chuck, and once you get to that point you'll want a damper because you'll be hitting that transition faster and harder as your skillset progresses.

Richie, not to take away from your post but I nearly flew into the grass when I was trying the loose on the bars method. Then again, that was on my old FZ1 which was a handful to begin with.

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Originally Posted by bergs

It will be a memorable time, Chuck, and once you get to that point you'll want a damper because you'll be hitting that transition faster and harder as your skillset progresses.

Richie, not to take away from your post but I nearly flew into the grass when I was trying the loose on the bars method. Then again, that was on my old FZ1 which was a handful to begin with.

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By chance I owned your racebike as well And yeah that bike NEEDS a damper. My experience is any 600 or bigger needs a damper Its just a lot of freakin power.

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Originally Posted by bergs

Richie, not to take away from your post but I nearly flew into the grass when I was trying the loose on the bars method. Then again, that was on my old FZ1 which was a handful to begin with.

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Ride my motard, youll learn headshake and loose on the bars. Trust me. I actually kind of enjoy it.
Remember I was shaking so bad at one point last year it was enough to push the brake pads back in the caliper.

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Originally Posted by Pittenger5

Ride my motard, youll learn headshake and loose on the bars. Trust me.

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Already learned that....then forgot for a bit until I threw a leg over Scott's 800. That bike seemed to exhibit a characteristic wallow in anything other than a straight line. Not a bad thing as it was obviously a part of that bike's personality.

Good for hacking up teammates too!

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Originally Posted by bergs

Good for hacking up teammates too!

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:teehee:

Put it this way, I have a scotts damper in the garage. I havent bothered to put it on either of my bikes, havent felt the need. Granted my bikes have 108 horses combined, so it might be different than most.

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Originally Posted by Pittenger5

:teehee:

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I'm still sorry about that to this day.

:sad2:

:hug3:

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Originally Posted by bergs

I'm still sorry about that to this day.

:sad2:

:hug3:

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Hahah, it was funny. I saw it coming so no big deal.

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Originally Posted by Pittenger5

Hahah, it was funny. I saw it coming so no big deal.

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My spidey senses told me you were there. I thought I was clear enough to move over and then, out of the corner of my eye I see the corner of a yellow fender just as I'm cutting (no pun intended) over to avoid the upcoming greenery.

Hey, I'm new at this!

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Originally Posted by Pittenger5

:teehee:

Put it this way, I have a scotts damper in the garage. I havent bothered to put it on either of my bikes, havent felt the need. .

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wanna sell it??:naughty

FWIW, I have a GPR (rotary) on my SX bike because it was cheap. It works well though and has lasted a season without failure. I was reluctant to buy it because of reports like these, but so far so good.

I had a sprint linear damper on my racebike and it did the job as well. As long as it's rebuildable for a reasonable cost, anything will work.

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Originally Posted by Kitt

linear, mechanically simpler and (in my opinion) more reliable. It seems the design behind the rotary dampers makes them more susceptible to needing rebuilds (this may also just be because those dampers are made by crappy manufacturers). I know some people have had great luck with rotary. I'd be willing to try just because they take up less real estate than the linear top mount.

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Rotary dampers are manufactured with an air bubble stuck inside. Its the downfall of the design. This causes cavitation of the oil inside when heated up, and when cold will cause a skip in the stroke. Skips, and cavitation are bad in a damper. Linear dampers perform better but they dont crash as well, and take up more space. Its a trade off.

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Originally Posted by bergs

Hey, I'm new at this!

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Haha I saw it all unfold was like ... umm HELLLOOOO.

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Originally Posted by lrrs699

wanna sell it??:naughty

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Distinct possibility.
Gotta make sure I can still find it first

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Originally Posted by 07BladeRider

Then I guess the answer is still no, I haven't felt any head shake between T7 and T8.

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Try going faster, you will ;)

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Originally Posted by ceo and a bunch of numbers

Try going faster, you will ;)

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ok oreo

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Originally Posted by bergs

It will be a memorable time, Chuck, and once you get to that point you'll want a damper because you'll be hitting that transition faster and harder as your skillset progresses.

Richie, not to take away from your post but I nearly flew into the grass when I was trying the loose on the bars method. Then again, that was on my old FZ1 which was a handful to begin with.

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Originally Posted by BLACK SQUIRREL

By chance I owned your racebike as well And yeah that bike NEEDS a damper. My experience is any 600 or bigger needs a damper Its just a lot of freakin power.

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Yes, I realize that I don't crack the throttle WFO like I should be at times.

But I did ended up getting a bracket on the SV for the Scotts damper that's on Annalisa's 900. I'll swap it over when I ride on the track. Takes 2 minutes and saves me $300+.

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Originally Posted by ceo and a bunch of numbers

Try going faster, you will ;)

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All in good time.

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Originally Posted by lrrs699

wanna sell it??:naughty

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Dammitt! :doh: You beat me to it.... :mrgreen:

I keep trying to find good comparison articles on the different brands, but havn't found a comprehensive one yet... Anyone have any direct experience with the Pit Bulls?

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Originally Posted by Femmekat

Dammitt! :doh: You beat me to it.... :mrgreen:

I keep trying to find good comparison articles on the different brands, but havn't found a comprehensive one yet... Anyone have any direct experience with the Pit Bulls?

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Stay away from Pit Bull imo. I havent used their damper but Ive also havent heard anything good about them. My experience with them is with bike that come into the shop with them mounted on. Everyone Ive seen requires you to drill into your frame to mount it. I have yet to see one Scotts damper that requires drilling to mount.

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Originally Posted by union

Stay away from Pit Bull imo. I havent used their damper but Ive also havent heard anything good about them. My experience with them is with bike that come into the shop with them mounted on. Everyone Ive seen requires you to drill into your frame to mount it. I have yet to see one Scotts damper that requires drilling to mount.

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I don't see how drilling versus non-drilling has anything to do with performance.

That's like saying no-cut frame sliders are superior to cut ones in terms of performance and saving your bike because they don't involve cutting.

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Originally Posted by ceo and a bunch of numbers

I don't see how drilling versus non-drilling has anything to do with performance.

That's like saying no-cut frame sliders are superior to cut ones in terms of performance and saving your bike because they don't involve cutting.

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Well you can drill into the headstock of your frame all you want. Ill stick with the bolt on type. The penalty for drilling for your sliders wrong is a few hundred dollars for a new panel from the dealer and a little time swapping it over if you do it at all. You drill the mount holes wrong for the damper not only does it not mount right but you can weaken your frame.

I'll have to double check exactly which two leads you are supposed to jump in that big connector but the other ones in there are not used, I filled it with silicone. YOu can see pretty clearly which two they are though based on the pictures, the other ones I bent out of the way to ensure no contact and then filled with the silicone.

The other large-ish connector you need to put push terminals into it, that's where the switch goes.

Connector I made:
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...03388Large.jpg

Good to go, the one on the right is where the switch wires to:
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...03394Large.jpg

Here's the switch:
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC03405.jpg

Damper setup:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...03399Large.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...03400Large.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...03401Large.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...03404Large.jpg

Top view with switch good to go:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC03417.jpg