Suspension Budget - How is my money best spent?

Have you made any clicker adjustments with your stock stuff? I'm wondering if you may need to simply back off your shock's rebound a little if you feel like you're gonna break loose on corner exit? I'd get into PK's shop and see what can be done with your stock stuff before dumping the cash. Is your sag set correctly? are your forks the proper height in the clamps for the tires you're running? That's the stuff I'd look into. Also, switching to a well-setup SV will make you a better rider and put a bigger smile on your face!

Brad i brought mine to Pete Cate's for a sag adjustment and gained a second not sure if you have done this yet but it helped me out.

What this guy said!

KB

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Originally Posted by PainfullySlow

This is going to get me flamed but here goes.

My first advice would be to sell that and pickup a lightweight bike. You will learn more quickly IMO as well as be able to race cheaper (tires).

If you insist on sticking with that bike, do whatever you have to do to get the suspension done right. Eat ramein, pimp out your sister, etc. Find the means to get at the very least a proper shock and cartridges for the front. At the pace you are currently running you could probably get by with takeoffs to help stretch your budget.

You will not understand this now but after you have gone to a properly setup bike you will realize that all you are doing now is wasting gas and rubber.

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Originally Posted by PainfullySlow

This is going to get me flamed but here goes.

My first advice would be to sell that and pickup a lightweight bike. You will learn more quickly IMO as well as be able to race cheaper (tires).

If you insist on sticking with that bike, do whatever you have to do to get the suspension done right. Eat ramein, pimp out your sister, etc. Find the means to get at the very least a proper shock and cartridges for the front. At the pace you are currently running you could probably get by with takeoffs to help stretch your budget.

You will not understand this now but after you have gone to a properly setup bike you will realize that all you are doing now is wasting gas and rubber.

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I don't think that is bad advice at all. Budget wise, I would probably be able to do a little more in the lightweight class. However...I've just reached the point in MW where i'm competitve with a lot of my friends and it's setting up to be a pretty epic season in AM... I don't think I can walk away from that now! I would be more likely to add a LW bike to the lineup.

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Originally Posted by gregp

I find this thread very interesting, mostly because I am an off road, dirt bike guy (no MX). In my world, as long as my rear shock was tolerable, I would always put money into getting my forks working well, as they have much more impact on rider fatigue. Road racing seems to be completely different, with a lot of emphasis put on getting the power to the pavement, and getting good drive out of corners. In this regard, road racing bike setup seems much more finicky than Enduro/HS set up. $700 would just about cover Gold Valves and rebuilds/oil changes at both ends, so that is probably what I would do...
Good Luck with whatever way you chose to spend your $700.

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Yeah, I agree with you, most of my MX friends dump all of thier money into the forks. I've always run my dirtbike with bone stock suspension as well. I think i'll end up going this route and revalving/refreshing both ends.

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Originally Posted by slowkermit

Have you made any clicker adjustments with your stock stuff? I'm wondering if you may need to simply back off your shock's rebound a little if you feel like you're gonna break loose on corner exit? I'd get into PK's shop and see what can be done with your stock stuff before dumping the cash. Is your sag set correctly? are your forks the proper height in the clamps for the tires you're running? That's the stuff I'd look into. Also, switching to a well-setup SV will make you a better rider and put a bigger smile on your face!

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Yeah i've done a number of adjustments to the suspension without much success although i'm by no means an expert and most of what I am doing is trial and error. Sag is set, but not exactly sure how great my geometry is. As stated before, I can't walk away from MW before this season starts!

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Originally Posted by CDOG1974

Brad i brought mine to Pete Cate's for a sag adjustment and gained a second not sure if you have done this yet but it helped me out.

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Yeah haven't brought it to Peter, but i've set the sag. I might take it to him to set the geometry, but I imagine any trip to him won't be cheap.

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Originally Posted by WinVT

Yeah haven't brought it to Peter, but i've set the sag. I might take it to him to set the geometry, but I imagine any trip to him won't be cheap.

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Youre going to want a shock to set the geometry. You can get a penske double in the 700 range I think.

Based on your feedback, It looks like you're to the point where you could benefit from some aftermarket suspension components. I say go for that Penske!

I guess what I'm really wondering is whether a Penske or ohlins is that much better than an OEM with revalving?

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Originally Posted by WinVT

I guess what I'm really wondering is whether a Penske or ohlins is that much better than an OEM with revalving?

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They are because the Penske and ohlins will have a ride height ride height adjuster where the stock shock does not.

IMO - There are only a couple of items that make an after market shock "better" than a stock one. The first is that it may have more adjustments - high/low speed compression damping, ride height, or even rebound (if the stock shock does not have it). Then there is piston design - stock shocks usually have a very compromised piston port design, engineered to serve most riders, most of the time. Aftermarket shock pistons may have much larger compression ports, so that they can be valved much "tighter", but still blow off quickly. Lastly, they may have coatings that are much slippery-er, and last longer, and do not contaminate the oil so quickly.
The size of the piston ports will limit performance gains that can be had with a stock shock re-valve. Race-tech Gold valves address this, without springing for a whole new shock. Shocks like Ohlins and Works do not use the "deflective disk" design (which are basically a stack of thin flexible washers), but have their own (spring/ball, or spring/washer) proprietary designs.

A Penske will also have resale value, should your plans change in the future. A reworked stock shock is much tougher to sell.

A Pensky in the rear, some gold valves up front and go have some fun. If you really get ambitions get the geometry set up from PK. I was a little skeptical doing the geometry at first, then I dropped 2 seconds the day after he set my suspension up & I *thought* I went slower as I was working a lot less to get around the track for practice.

Just my penny worth of info... Good Luck!

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Originally Posted by WinVT

So, i'm looking to upgrade the suspension on my 06 R6 race bike for the upcoming season. As it sits the suspension is bone stock. Only upgrade is that I have 2011 forks instead of the shorter 2006 forks.

Basically I have around $700 to spend on suspension and I'm wondering where that money would be most effective. I've done some pricing and research and have come up with the following options.

Option 1:

Purchase used aftermarket shock and leave forks untouched. I have a lead on an Ohlins YA606 shock that falls into my budget.

Option 2:

Purchase a fork cartridge kit and leave shock untouched. My company is set up a dealer with racetech so I could probably go brand new this route and still be in budget, or maybe find a used setup.

Option 3:

Send out forks and shock to racetech to be revalved and resprung. Not getting the best in either department, but at least I am upgrading both.

Option 4:

Keep it bone stock and save money for tires.



Which option do you think will get me the most bang for my buck?

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if you would like to give me a call, I can answer all of your questions.

Hurry!
http://weraclassifieds.com/ads/ohlin...006-yamaha-r6/

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Originally Posted by gmdboston

if you would like to give me a call, I can answer all of your questions.

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I will call you sometime this week and get your input, thanks!

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Originally Posted by csmutty

Hurry!
http://weraclassifieds.com/ads/ohlin...006-yamaha-r6/

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Thanks again, but looks like it sold right before I emailed him. Hopefully the sale falls through!

Anyone have any experience with a Racetech G3-S shock? I can get one pretty cheap.

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Originally Posted by WinVT

Anyone have any experience with a Racetech G3-S shock? I can get one pretty cheap.

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I think you just answered your own question...

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Originally Posted by gmdboston

if you would like to give me a call, I can answer all of your questions.

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"If you can't afford to do it right, how are you going to afford to do it over?"

Shop Services:
1) Good
2) Fast
3) Cheap
Pick two.....

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Originally Posted by gmdboston

if you would like to give me a call, I can answer all of your questions.

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This thread could have ended right there :-p

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Originally Posted by Paul_E_D

I think you just answered your own question...

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Haha, well I can get them cheap because I'm a racetech dealer, not some used shock someone is giving away. Retail on the G3-S is around $1,100 so it's not a cheap shock by any means...

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Originally Posted by CDOG1974

Brad i brought mine to Pete Cate's for a sag adjustment and gained a second not sure if you have done this yet but it helped me out.

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If I'm not mistaken PK charges about 20 bucks to adjust your sag. Last time PK adjusted my sag he is only asked to a couple of hotdogs in exchange. The OP is talking about cost benefit...so there you have it. Just saying.

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Originally Posted by nt650hawk

"If you can't afford to do it right, how are you going to afford to do it over?"

Shop Services:
1) Good
2) Fast
3) Cheap
Pick two.....

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NIICE!!

Those are ones of PK quotes, isn't it?

Every bike is different, but most riders would benefit first from having forks that work properly. You can deal with the stock rear shock by simply being smooth with the throttle and unweighting the seat over transitions. The forks, they create more problems in more areas and can cause the entire entrance and mid corner to be a mess.....at which point the rear shock becomes much less of a concern. Get the entrance and mid corner right first, then you can shift your focus to the back and and have it provide you with some real benefit. A mint rear shock paired with an out of control front fork isn't going to help you out a whole lot.

...just my opinion.

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Originally Posted by Woodcraft

Every bike is different, but most riders would benefit first from having forks that work properly. You can deal with the stock rear shock by simply being smooth with the throttle and unweighting the seat over transitions. The forks, they create more problems in more areas and can cause the entire entrance and mid corner to be a mess.....at which point the rear shock becomes much less of a concern. Get the entrance and mid corner right first, then you can shift your focus to the back and and have it provide you with some real benefit. A mint rear shock paired with an out of control front fork isn't going to help you out a whole lot.

...just my opinion.

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Ok thanks for the advice, I was about to go out and buy a new shock, but I think you've changed my mind. So now I guess I need to decide how exactly to dial in the forks... do I send them out for revalving or bite the bullet and go with the 25mm cartridge kit?

I ran 16s on stock cartridges...just got it sprung for my weight and never had any issues. I really think go for the shock first.

just call PK and get it done. stop with the fucking waffles