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My RR hasn't gone out yet on my 06 gsxr 600 but I have been hearing horror stories about the aftermath once it does.
I want to replace the RR along with the harness that goes to both the battery and the stator.
Here is what I have ordered so far...
http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%...rade%20kit.htm I grabbed the FH020AA Mosfet R/R only
and a relocation bracket to get the RR away from the header and radiator.
Here are my question(s)
I want to replace the entire RR wiring harness because as we all know that's where the problem starts.
I came across http://easternbeaver.com and they sell the battery connection along with the alternator connection.
Here is a link to the parts. http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...onnectors.html Looking for Part A and Part B
Now to the question.... For Part B which length would be optimal and which version connection do I grab? I obviously want a sealed connection to protect from water and such. Do I go with a 2 position or 3 connector HD waterproof version?
I understand I will have to splice and solder the new connections. I am just confused onto which versions to buy.
Any GSXR owners ever have to do this and if you did what did you use to get the job done?
Last edited by Dip Dungles; 09-12-12 at 12:39 PM. Reason: Wrong links
Shannon
Well the link doesn't work but I would recommend the Metri-pack connectors. That'swhat I have on my 675, and they are extremely high quality connectors.
As for the bit about the harness being the cause, that is incorrect. The R/R's fail because the SCR diode regulators get extremely hot during light loads and can burn out causing a short, which in turn causes the coils in the stator to fail.
LRRS 878 Clapped out Gixxah
If you're going to splice and solder anyways why not just get rid of all the connectors and do the wires directly, and heat shrink over that?
I fixed the links.
Shannon
Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm..........
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics....ZTdXpHU1hSNjAw
LRRS EX 66
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factoryeffex
Hey I just upgraded to the FH010 myself. Literally like 2 days ago. Check out this TriumphRat thread for some info: http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html
The harness for it is $10 from Triumph (part #T2500676) as a lot of Triumph bikes upgraded to the FH012 under a factory recall. No reason not to get that part as you'll have the water tight factory connectors on the R/R end and it's only $10. You'll have to splice the Triumph end in but I had to anyway on my older Triumph. Other than that just make sure you have some extra 12 gauge wire incase you need to extend some of the wires or wire directly to the battery.
I was getting ~13.5v at idle before but it would drop as the RPMs raised, now I get 14.45V at all the RPMs I tested. If you need any help let me know but it's pretty simple. You have 3 wires coming from your stator and then 2 wires that ultimately go to your battery.
Last edited by GNTurbo6; 09-12-12 at 01:26 PM.
Friends don't let friends wave to Can Ams
This is exactly what I needed to hear. Since I already had my RR shipped I am going to order part a and b from http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...onnectors.html and grab the metri pack option. Then all I will have to do is solder in the metri into my factory harness that comes from the stator.
Shannon
Subscribed!!!!
- - - Updated - - -
Shannon I got my relocation bracket. I might wait until the winter to do it since I dont feel like ripping the bike apart right now......
I love how you're being the guinea pig!!!!!!
You son of a bitch, I see what you did there. LOL
Shannon
Very cool!
I have had mine sitting on my desk at home for about a month....
I was waiting until winter to do it but now I have an even better reason to procrastinate....
Sam