Cleaning Carbs

[BSR6]

Ok so this is more a question thats resulting from my current snowmobile whoas but I figured you guys would be able to help me since many of you probably have, or have had, carbed bikes.

When cleaning carbs whats the best method? My approach has always been to pull the bowls, jets etc and just squirt carb cleaner through them. I always do a thorough job, getting all components off and clean so I know I am not missing anything etc.

For the first time in years this method has not worked for me. I cleaned the carbs on both mine, and my dad's snowmobile, but both still ran like shit afterwards. I re-did mine last weekend and this time used compressed air to blow everything out after using the carb cleaner and now its running fine. I am going to go through my father's for the second time tonight using the same method. So obviously the compressed air makes a difference, but I am wondering if you have any other tips, or if you have ever an issue where carb cleaner and compressed air wasn't enough.

Basically, there is snow, the trails are getting good, and I'm worried I will have no success in getting my fathers sled running right after carb cleaning #2. I was hoping you could either give me some words of confidence and tell me after using the compressed air tonight the sled should be fine, or give me some tips that will prevent attempt #2 from being a failure. My dad is getting impatient and threatening to take it to the dealer, which I don't want him to do if I am missing something simple and easy that he shouldn't have to go elswhere to resolve.

[Paul_E_D]

The bowl has little to do with running problems. It's stick fuel varnish in the tiny jet openings. Standard cleaning procedure for me it to remove the main and pilot jets soak in cleaner, spray out with compressed air. In some cases you may even need to floss the jets...

[BSR6]

Thats pretty much the approach I have taken minus the flossing part, which I will consider. The bowls I try to keep clean so there is no possibility of junk getting pulled up and clogging a jet.

The catch to this is I always use stabilizer in the fuel when I put them away (ethanol formula), so the jets and carbs look brand new, yet every year they still run like shit. I am guessing since all the brass still has that brand new shine, soaking them won't make a difference.

Until this year it's been the same thing every fall. Sled runs like shit, pull the carbs, find nothing but the fact that they are so clean they look brand new, clean them anyway, sled runs fine. It's just weird that they look so clean and still don't run right. The difference this year from the past was that they didn't run right even after that initial cleaning, where as usually thats all it takes. I just hope the air works for my dad's sled as well as it did for mine, since at this point I am out of ideas.

[Paul_E_D]

Pilot jets in particular need to be removed, soaked, and blown out. The openings are so small that you often can't visually determine if they are slightly gunked up or not. That's why I pull them every time. No need taking the carbs off. You can usually access the jets through the bottom screw cap.

[OreoGaborio]

Paul knows his stuff when it comes to carbs.

Probably a dumb question, but I assume you run the motor for a bit after adding the staybil, then drain the carbs before storing? If not, that may help.

[Pigman]

We Run Startron stuff all the time in all our sleds and start them up 1-2 times a week helps also....but i let BMS service my carbs usually 70-100 and NEVER had an issues....ethanol is a Biotch and having it dialed in by a 30yr sled guy is well worth the $$$$$$..

and what sled.....???


http://mystarbrite.com/startron

[Sheppo]

I also run a wire through my jets besides, compressed air and carb cleaner.
THink welding tip cleaner...

[ɹǝʍoןandɹǝʍoן]

like everyone said, floss! I used the inner metal of a twist-tie wrap.

[Kurlon]

I drain the carbs before storing, stabil or not. Can't go bad if it's not in there, right?

For cleaning, I prefer to use my friend's ultrasonic tank, haven't found an easier method yet.

[OreoGaborio]

I drain the carbs before storing, stabil or not. Can't go bad if it's not in there, right?

For cleaning, I prefer to use my friend's ultrasonic tank, haven't found an easier method yet.

have you tried using a regular tank and yelling at it?

[BSR6]

My sled is a 2005 RX-1, my dads is a 600 two stroke triple Yamaha. The yearly routine every spring is to stabilize the fuel and go for a quick ride. If thats not an option then I make sure they are run for at least 10 minutes...Then I drain the gas via the drain screws on the bottom of the carbs.

My guess is that the carbs are clean because I am getting all of the gas out of the major areas but there is always a little left in the jets where it eventually dries and leaves desposits despite the stabil. For some reason this year the deposits were a little more stubborn and needed compressed air.

Yes Ethenol is a bitch...I have been using the stabilize then drain method since the late 90's and never had a problem until the ethanol came out a few years ago. Now I am thinking I will just remove them every spring and blow the jets dry to keep the fuel from rotting in there, as opposed to just waiting and having to clean them out in the fall.

[KB]

We Run Startron stuff all the time in all our sleds and start them up 1-2 times a week helps also....but i let BMS service my carbs usually 70-100 and NEVER had an issues....ethanol is a Biotch and having it dialed in by a 30yr sled guy is well worth the $$$$$$..

and what sled.....???


http://mystarbrite.com/startron

I swear by this stuff!!!

KB

[breakdirt916]

how do you know it's the carb?

[Pigman]

how do you know it's the carb?

Cause Its a Sled........since the ethanol, sleds are droping motors all over the place..and I've even had jets break apart cause they are dis-similar metals and the ethanol breaks them down..

[BSR6]

The air was the key. It's running as good as it will ever run after cleaning #2 last night.

[Pigman]

The air was the key. It's running as good as it will ever run after cleaning #2 last night.

Nice............try the startron shit, the stabil ethanl stuff doesnt cut it

[landricscustoms]

I'm surprised noon mentioned syncing the carbs. As that will definitely improve on the running.

[competitionplus]

There is a gallon jug of carb cleaner with a basket in it you can get at most parts stores. A welding tip cleaner is nice too.

Soak overnight in a warm area, rinse with carb spray and blow inside and out, reassemble.

The welding tip cleaner is perfect for the perpendicular holes in the needle jet.

I gotta do the same to my sleds this weekend.

[greenmonster]

re: drain carbs once the gas is treated...I leave gas in the carbs and haven't had any problems. I heard/read that draining the carbs can lead to the rubber components-o rings-drying out/breaking down. True? (I use the blue Stabil marine)

I use picture frame wire to clean out the jets. The wire is made of several woven strands. I just unravel one of the strands, and it's small enough to get into the openings. Works just fine.

[SSearchVT]

Above and beyond the jets make sure all of the little holes in the carb bodies are clean. Some have small bypasses for idle circuits, etc. They tend to make sharp turns and have caps pressed into the carb body (perfect places for crud to build up). Spray carb clean into every hole - If there's an "In" there has to be an "Out", and follow up with compressed air.

[Stromper]

With E10 I would just assume you need to have some cleaner like above or seafoam or startron in every tank

You never know how much water is in your gas when you buy it. It may be slowly dissolving some component in the system or just making jelly

ALSO

Always fill the tanks to the tippy top with stabilized fuel whenever you store it even for a couple of days

Also you can still by gunk in a dip can