0


so i had to put a new chain on my SV1KS so i had to remove the device that pushes the pushrod into the case (slave cylinder?) IDK WTF its called right now im too irritated. anyway, it all worked fine before i took it apart. i know that the clutch lever was pulled in at least a couple of times while it was all apart so i could start it (i was working on some other stuff too). so now that i have it all back together the clutch lever feels excessively light. and without the bike running i put it in gear and pull in the clutch but cant move the bike which leads me to believe that the clutch isnt being disengaged all the way. i removed the slave cyl (?) again and pumped the lever a few times and it seems to be moving out ok but maybe not as much as it should. i pushed the cup back in by hand and saw the resivoir fill back up. i put it all back together and still nothing. i tried bleeding it but still no difference.
i did spot a small hole in the boot up by the lever but i dont think that it would cause an issue because i think its just a dust boot. if its anything like a brake master cyl (which i assume it is) the seal itself is further in the body.
i took a crappy cell pic. hopefully someone can help me out. like i said it all worked magnificently before i took it off. not sure what i did to screw this up, although this is my first bike with a hydraulic clutch.
Attachment 29092
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
Air in the system. Bleed it all out.
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2020 BMW R1250GS Adventure Exclusive
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
i tried that but no air came out. maybe use a mighty vac? ill have to bring it to work, might as well put new fluid in it while im at it. that was going to be my next step but i wanted to make sure i wasnt missing something
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
At the handlebar remove the lever. Find something suitable (I used a phillips screwdriver) and use that to prime/pump up your system while bleeding. The lever does not have enough throw. Doing it manually will.
Mighty vac was the only way i could get mine to bleed.
-Alex
I can resist everything but Pete's mom.
you could also try using a syringe (spelling?) and a short piece of rubber hose on the bleeder screw, and push the air backwards up the system. I recently used this method and was amazed how much air normal bleeding didnt remove. Just make sure you remove some fluid from the reserviour, and keep an eye on it as you go, or your gunna have brake fluid all over. And that shit eats paint.
This also will remove air but not pump up his lever. The problem here is that the piston in the master cylinder (handlebar end of system) is now down in the bottom of the cylinder because he depressed the lever to start the bike. He needs to pump it up. Not remove air. The lever does not have enough throw. To extend the throw you remove the lever and use a rod of a sort to get it to pump up. Then replace the lever. Pumping the lever will not work because the piston is too far down and the pumping of the lever is not moving the piston. You can pump till ya cum but without the piston moving you are just wasting her time.
Next time use some safety wire and connect the old chain to the new chain and pull it threw the front sprocket area and not deal with this other stuff.
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
I havent seen how that clutch system goes to gether so forgive my ignorance but there aren't any ball bearings that engage the clutch rod is there?
My old bike and some friends I've helped have had a tendancy to spit them out and get lost as soon as you release pressure on them.
Last edited by DaveZX6r; 05-01-12 at 08:47 AM.
Usually there is.
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
One trick I learned about working on bikes with hydraulic clutches. Before removing the slave cylinder pull the clutch in and zip tie the lever to the grip. It makes it so that no one can pull your clutch lever while the slave is not installed ( a nifty by product is that you can start the bike on bikes with clutch safety switches ). You just need to be careful when removing the slave to go back and forth between the bolts to walk it out as it will be under pressure from the clutch springs. Too late to help Oxx now but maybe it will help someone in the future.
I wound up bleeding mine on my husky when I changed slave cylinders by having the slave cylinder in my hand and using my thumb to push piston back into the slave to push the air back up through the lines to the master. At some point I actually got the lever to start moving the piston and then bled it like a brake from there on.
Joel
Make sure whatever end you're bleeding from is the high end also, it'll help coax the air bubbles up and out.