Countershaft issue

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Originally Posted by Pittenger5

Dirt tire might not stick well on the track though.

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Yea, but you might not die that way.

is the issue the chain hitting the tire or the wheel?

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Originally Posted by hessogood

is the issue the chain hitting the tire or the wheel?

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It hits the tire as it is. I think spacing it out prevents it from hitting the wheel, and the tire even worse.

I don't space my crf. You could also loosen the driveside spokes and tighten right side spokes to pull the wheel over alittle.

Being that it is orginally held on with a circlip there are no threads on the shaft originally (no point). If you want threads, give it to a machinist as it isn't gonna happen by hand with drills and bits and shit.

In conclusion...light it on fire.

seriously look to see if the motor can move the 1/4 inch in the frame

a little cut and a spacer maybe look if rear axle has spacers and tweak them 1/2 way

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Originally Posted by Pittenger5

And there is VERY little clearance to space out the rear sprocket at all. I doubt that would do much of anything, so Im gonna stick with the countershaft sprocket spacing

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Don't know if they make one for your bike, but I put a Graves Chain block on mine. My chain just about touches the tire, yet there is little to no chain rub during use.

You can see the block of plastic to the left, that's the part I installed. The rub marks on the tire are from a ride around the neighborhood before i installed the block

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7/000_2855.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7/000_2868.jpg

That bike is immaculate.

What size rim are you running? If you have some room on the right side of the tire, you could always just move the rim to the right.

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Originally Posted by Mad Max

That bike is immaculate.

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You have no idea. You gotta see it up close. And then remind yourself that he dirt rides it too... :drool:

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Originally Posted by UngaWunga

What size rim are you running? If you have some room on the right side of the tire, you could always just move the rim to the right.

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5", and no room, the boogers on the tire are wearing a groove on the swingarm.

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Originally Posted by Pittenger5

How is I supposed to did it then?

And there is VERY little clearance to space out the rear sprocket at all. I doubt that would do much of anything, so Im gonna stick with the countershaft sprocket spacing

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wouldn't spacing out the rear sprocket give you the opposite of what you want anyway? sure it would get the chain away from the tire more but then your chain would be running at an even great angle to the sprockets.

I think you should just buy a Honda and be done with it :poke:

I was going to recommend mark's chain block as well. Take the spacer out of the sprocket and put it on normal then add the chain block. Wire the circlip too.

Hmm, chain block might work, but there isnt one for my bike. How does it attach to the swing arm?

Looks like you hafta drill the swingarm, which would lead me to believe these are fairly universal, maybe Ill pick one up. Any reason I WOULDNT be able to get one of these on my bike thats not a Yamaha?

Drill and tap baby!

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Originally Posted by Kurlon

Drill and tap baby!

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thats what he said. NO really he just said it

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Originally Posted by Pittenger5

Hmm, chain block might work, but there isnt one for my bike. How does it attach to the swing arm?

Looks like you hafta drill the swingarm, which would lead me to believe these are fairly universal, maybe Ill pick one up. Any reason I WOULDNT be able to get one of these on my bike thats not a Yamaha?

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I know it's a Graves part, and I think I got it off a link on Supermoto Junkie?

I had to trim some of the stock chain slide so the block fit flat on the swinger, and could be placed inline with the chain. Drill 3 holes, tap them and locktite the bolts. I do remember it being an odd sized tap and I couldn't find one, I ended up just buying 3 stainless allen screws and a tap to match

Find a nutsert that fits the hole that is in the shaft (try Mcmaster-Carr). It would be better than trying to use epoxy (IMO).

There's a good idea! Pitt are you even listening to solutions here?

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Originally Posted by Paul_E_D

There's a good idea! Pitt are you even listening to solutions here?

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Doing my best. Id obviously PREFER something easy, as opposed to splitting cases and getting it tapped and blah blah blah.
I tried some of that epoxy shit, but that aint gonna work, so Ill clear that out.
These nut-serts sound both easy (and sexy). I honestly am not mechanically inclined, so I would have no idea what to do.

I may have a couple of sizes on hand here. If I have the correct size, I could send you one (or a couple). I am guessing that the hole is fairly small (under 10mm in diameter). The bolt used to hold the sprocket on the shaft does not have to be very strong, as the splines will take all of the torque.
Pitt, if you can tell me the diameter of the hole that is in the shaft, I will take a look around here and see what I have available.
If I can not find anything, a trip to Lowes or a hardware store may be worthwhile, just to see what they have on their shelves.
BTW - Using a nutsert is EZ. You just press it in or tap it in, and then screw in a bolt and tighten it up. Remove the bolt and the "nut" assembly stays right where it is.

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Originally Posted by gregp

BTW - Using a nutsert is EZ. You just press it in or tap it in, and then screw in a bolt and tighten it up. Remove the bolt and the "nut" assembly stays right where it is.

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Is it held in by pressure, or does it need to spline into the metal?

press fit. It almost spells pressure, so let's make that leap and say yes!

The smallest nutserts that I have on hand require a 1/2" hole (and use a 5/16" bolt) and I am guessing that this will be too big for your application.
I was also thinking along the lines of the methods used to affix hand guards to dirt bike bars - one method uses a piece of rubber fuel line and a nut/bolt to compress and swell the tubing inside of the bar end, - the other method uses two (usually aluminum) pieces, cut at a 30 degree or so angle, one piece is threaded, and the other is drilled over size to allow it to "kick off" to the side and grip inside the bar end. Either method (slightly modified for your application) should allow you to do what you need to do with that sprocket and shaft.

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Originally Posted by Pittenger5

Is it held in by pressure, or does it need to spline into the metal?

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The "nut" section is actually a wedge. When you tighten up the bolt, it pulls the wedge nut section into an outer sleeve, which expands to grip tightly in the outer dimension of the hole in the shaft. These fasteners have also been used to affix kick stand brackets to swingarms.
Once the nutsert is inserted, the bolt can be removed and replaced as often as you want, and the nutsert stays in place.
In the picture I provided, the "nut" section is at the bottom (it has threads in it), the upper section has a very small flange on it to prevent you from sliding the entire thing in too far, and it is just a hollow sleeve.

Short of purchasing the correct size nutsert, I would check at a hardware store for any style of "expanding" nut or fastener that might do the trick. Surely something like the little plastic wall inserts that use sheet metal screws might do the trick. There may also be some kind of wall board expanding fasteners that might work for your application. Even lead shields, usually found in concrete aplications, might work for what you are trying to do.