frost my tips:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by BCT748
it's called bed head on christmas morning
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frost my tips:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by BCT748
it's called bed head on christmas morning
Just caught this thread tonight props to you. Its nice to get an education from someone who knows there shit and when they let you do the work its even better. Great job bud you did allot of work on that baby it must feel good...:beerbang:)
thanks steve, although i have a Day 4 coming next week
:doh:Quote:
Originally Posted by DBConz
nothing major, just what i was telling you about on newbury last night. new(er) front tire, pads, and installing the rear SS lines.Quote:
Originally Posted by ceo012384
You need to check out that brake return spring or whatever is causing the brake lever to have a shitload of play before putting any pressure on the fluid... once you get the lever in it feels good but there is a lot of slop beforehand.Quote:
Originally Posted by DBConz
And get all that ghey chrome off while you're at it.
thanks, i'll ask Degs when I go back to the garage next weekQuote:
Originally Posted by ceo012384
i will, as soon as you wipe off all that ghey on your faceQuote:
Originally Posted by ceo012384
You and Chris are starting to act like an old married couple...:twofinger
steve, be fair. i think Blake wants in on the special bond that chris and i haveQuote:
Originally Posted by stevecbr900rr
I :wub: Jim :redface:Quote:
Originally Posted by stevecbr900rr
Has Denno finally lost all elasticity in his sphincter?Quote:
Originally Posted by ceo012384
:spit::spit::spit:...Everyone needs a little Bromance now and then.
:spit:Quote:
Originally Posted by GixerJockey
When he farts now it just sounds like a light breeze *whoooosh*
I kept trying to tell him that being SXLova's bottom was gonna ruin it. He didn't want to listen.Quote:
Originally Posted by ceo012384
this is not the great sphincter re-build thread
Obviously...Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash Dummy Denno
Some things simply can not be rebuilt...
Day 4:
Picked up my new SBS brake pads for the front from Bettencourts
Attachment 29802
after taking the 2 bolts off for the caliper, remove this hex nut with a 5mm allen wrench. this is the pin that holds the 2 pads in the caliper
Attachment 29803
install the new pads, and put the pin back in the caliper to hold the pads. if you used your front brakes before taking the caliper out, your pads will probably look close together like this.
Attachment 29804
very carefully, get a flat head screwdriver between the pads and pry them apart. this will make it easy to get the caliper back on the rotor.
Attachment 29805
here's the view of the old & new pads
Attachment 29806 Attachment 29807 Attachment 29808
put the 2 caliper bolts back in with a 12mm socket and torque them to 18.1 ft/lbs (this one's for you garage guy)
Attachment 29809
the old stock Tokico pads
Attachment 29810
Make sure you pump your front brakes before riding. I broke the new pads in as suggested by Degsy. Go 30MPH down the street, and go to an almost complete stop. Repeat 5-6 times.
After I finished the pads in the driveway, I rode to Degsy's to do the rear brake lines.
Remove the brackets holding the line to the swingarm with an 8mm socket & take the top cover off the rear brake reservoir.
Attachment 29811
After loosening the bolt on the caliper with a 12mm socket, drain the old brake fluid into a pan & pump the rear brake.
Attachment 29812
Once all the old fluid is gone, remove the 12mm bolt off the brake line at the reservoir & take the line off the bike.
The new brake lines came with new crush washers & 14mm bolts. Make sure to use a new crush washer on both sides of the brake line & then torque the bolts to 16.5 ft/lbs.
Reuse the rubber grommets from the OEM brake lines & install them on the new lines. Install the brackets that hold the lines to the swingarm.
Attachment 29812 Attachment 29813
Once everything is bolted back up, fill the rear reservoir with new DOT4 brake fluid and start bleeding rear brake.
Attachment 29814
once all the air pockets are gone, you're good to go :shredder:
just FYI but I would recommend pushing the caliper pistons back out without the pads in. Like you said its fine if you are very careful pushing on the new pads but its a good idea to push them out with the old junk pads in or without pads at all.
:idea: ya i thought of that when i bolted everything back in. then i got lazy and did it with the new pads in anywaysQuote:
Originally Posted by seth505
got one better for you - if you can let the pads sandwich together and sit on one side of pistons, then you can pry from the backside of the pads - at least thats what i can do on my 636 - then no chunks taken out of your padsQuote:
Originally Posted by DBConz
nice work jimbo, did you leave some air in the rear line to leave the brake a bit soft? just wondering as i know how you love doing stand-up wheelies and how you always cover your rear brake.
Denno
Yay Jim!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by DBConz
And THAT one is for Denno... (T1 :idea:)Quote:
Originally Posted by DBConz
One of the important things if you ask me is to use a toothbrush and brake cleaner to clean the shit out of the caliper pistons before you push them back in. All that grime on the pistons isn't good for the piston seals/orings.
You can use emory paper, alternately.
last update for this thread. my bike is now ready for that 225 mile ride in NH i''m doing next weekend. Got my new A* boots and SPIDI Penta gloves, and now it's time for a new(er) tire. My front tire was done, so swapped it out for another one with better tread.
Old vs New - Michelin Pilot Power 120 tire (non 2CT)
Attachment 29815
took the front wheel off and had Boston Moto mount the tire for me. thanks again guys :beerbang:
Attachment 29816
the tire wasnt new, but was very slippery on the ride home form NHMS. Took a good day of riding for it to feel sticky again. Thanks everyone for their comments & feedback on this thread.
your pictures = borked
:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by daviid
pics worked for me!