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anyone do a home paint job and have tips? I'll be doing bondo and fiberglass work as well. so far i've only sanded a few pieces so it's still in its infancy. Thanks!
Well behaved women rarely make history.
"I'm soft" - el capiton
Are you painting a house and using bondo and fiberglass?????![]()
Or are you painting some body work at home and looking for tips?
Personally I have done neither but figured I wouldhave a little fun with you, seeing as I don't know you and all..........
Hopefully someone with more of an answer for your question posts up. I'm pretty sure Degsy might know a thing or two about painting bodywork etc. if that is what you are looking for.
Anyhow, nice not meeting you. Have a good one!!!
Joel
Prime it, wet sand with 400 grit, then wipe with a solution of 75% alcohol and %25 water. Then use sealer over the primer. You can apply paint to the sealer when it's still tacky. Over-lap your paint by %50, the first coat should be light, with the second being more of a wet coat. The alcohol/water is to prevent your fiberglass from getting a static charge from all the rubbing. Go the autobody supply shop and pick their brain a little.
Prep is the most important - good advice from Burnham... Where possible use a sanding block or conformable pad with the sandpaper. Are you going to use a gun or spray can?
SSearchVT
For every action there is an equal but opposite reaction - and sometimes a scar...
im using a can for the primer then most likely a gun for the paint. i want the shiney finish as opposed to the matte rattle can style.
i also think the plastic itself is scratched. should i fill that crap in (lots of little scratches) or just do a few layers of primer hoping it fills in?![]()
thanks!
oh, and nice meeting you as well joel![]()
Well behaved women rarely make history.
"I'm soft" - el capiton
Cover any and all things you don't want to paint, overspray can be a bitch!
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If the scratches aren't too deep you can use a high build primer to fill them in faster, or hit them with glazing puddy first. If you want shine put 2 coats of clear on and wet sand with 1500 grit, then polish it. You can do a decent job with a rattle can, Dupli-Color has a good nozzle. It depends mostly on the prep. The block will keep you from leaving finger marks and high/low spots on your finish. You can prime something, and have it look good in primer, then you put some paint on it and everything shows and it looks like shit. So again, prep.
I do my own paintwork along with the help of a friend. 2 coats of clear is correct... it'll get your bike shiny. As someone else mentioned... PREP IS EVERYTHING. For us... its something done on the side so 2 days of non stop prep work and 30 minutes to paint! Cracks, holes, pit marks... all show... especially if your looking for that shiny look. Most of them can be filled with wal-mart spot putty. Cracks I'm going to recommend you re-fiberglass. I'm going to finish with this... I hate this so much I never offer to take anyone else's work in.
If you need any help with the glassing, I have a fair amount of experience with it.![]()
I know a little about everything, and alot about nothing.
well, if you're not in the nut house by then, i'll def. be giving you a call (or PM)!Originally posted by JeffL
If you need any help with the glassing, I have a fair amount of experience with it.![]()
I'm just in the sanding stage now, i've been pretty busy but thanks again for all the info!
sorry you hate it, it's been fun and a learning experience so far! i already have a friend asking me to redo his when i have time...time haha, that's funny!
Well behaved women rarely make history.
"I'm soft" - el capiton
All rattle can paints dissolve in gasoline so is big problem on tank
My brother and I are experimenting with urethane clear coat will post if shows gas resistance.
I have NO problem getting pro shop shine with rattle cans with the blue pin type nozzles.
Spray to look like wet pavement come back 1/2 hour to the shine.
Duplicolor Truck paint because it comes in big cans
Glen Beck is John the Baptist
I bought a cheap air brush off Ebay, and experimenting with some old fairings.
Right now the best advice I can offer you is do not sand your work in the same place you plan on painting.
Dust is a killer on any kind of clear or "shiny" finish.
I have been working in the basement and dust is killing me. Keep your work area clean and before you paint wet the floor,it keeps the dust down.
Noe I understand why paint booths cost $$$$
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