Need knowledgeable mechanic - bike won't move in any gear

Is it possible you're being too aggressive with your cleaning and you're scrubbing the o-rings right out of the chain? Something to think about. They're just little rubber rings. Don't be using a wire brush, and even aggressive plastic with a hard scrubbing might encourage failure.

You might know this, but that washer is probably a locking washer. Meant to have a side bent upward against the nut to prevent it from backing out. If it's just a plain old washer, you might want to get the proper one or safety wire the nut.

I just use kerosene and grunge brush. I do a thorough job, but I don't think that should be damaging anything?.. I figure they've just started to fall apart with age.
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I did not know it was locking till tonight. Brett mentioned it on my facebook post. And I'm going to see about getting a lightened sprocket that has the holes in it, so I could use them for safety wire.

Considering I tend to know a lot about mechanics, this was quite the learning experience.

I believe there was a whole debate about cleaning chains somewhere on here. I never clean my chain. Only lube it.

Way to go, tech inspectors.

The big washer is to be bent over so the nut wont spin off....FYI

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Originally Posted by csmutty

I believe there was a whole debate about cleaning chains somewhere on here. I never clean my chain. Only lube it.

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And I only clean, never lube. :D

yeah the washer thing was covered.

never heard of not cleaning... I like my sparkly gold chain, so I'll stick with it. Perhaps a little less thorough though.

The only way tech inspectors would have seen that would be to remove the sprocket cover. I'm going to modify it before I put it back on. Probably drill a 1-2" peep hole in the middle.

No more "grunge brush". Cleaning the chain is fine, but don't go tearing at those o-rings. Those are the only things making that chain not turn into red powder on the inside. And easy on the Kero, use WD40 instead. I bought one of those grunge brushes. Holy shit did it gouge the shit out of my o-rings.

Big clean rag is where it's as. And then re-lube with quality chain wax. It won't fling off too bad if you do it properly. And do it with the bike off. Don't be one of those people with mangled fingers on the internet.


I've watched chains fly off bikes during trackdays and races. Hell, I've run over a chain while it was still sliding. Each time, it's been a GOOD LOOKING CLEAN chain. Which is the problem.

You don't see a greasy chain break often.

Just saying, a pretty bike on the sidelines looks worse than a somewhat dirty bike out on the track rippin it up.

Haha I'm not a noob guys. But apparently some technique alterations are in store. I used to only use a rag until a buddy left a grunge brush in my garage. I still use a rag after. But I've never heard of the brush or kerosene being negatives...

I use Maxima Chain Wax, and a healthy amount. Usually spin the chain around twice while constantly spraying. Once from each side.

I spun off the countershaft nut last year too...I'm not sure how, but it happened. I'm guessing that I didn't bend the lock washer properly. Luckily I found the nut in my belly pan, but the lock washer was long gone. Got back on track with some lock-tite, marking the nut, and checking it religiously.

Went home and ordered 2 lock washers.

Not that I think of it..I have been chasing a minor oil leak pretty much all season. We're talking drops each session. Eventually drops turned into a constant flow and I found the culprit to be the outer countershaft seal. Ended my track day. Not sure if this is correlated to losing the countershaft sprocket nut.

Went home and ordered 2 countershaft seals.

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Originally Posted by TheIglu

And easy on the Kero, use WD40 instead.

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it says differently in the Suzuki service manual
Attachment 45554

Isn't one of the main components of wd40 kerosene? Why would you stay away from a "purer" cleaning agent?

There was a "test" done by motorcyclist magazine where they soaked o rings for a period of time. O rings submerged in Kerosene and wd40 looked identical while other cleaners deteriorated/disintegrated the o rings.

I'm still concerned about your clutch lever and it's apparent lack of freeplay.

Kurlon good point! I meant to get back to that. So, funny story... I checked that last night after resolving major issue #1. Turns out, my buddy (who is very knowledgeable) must have been too worn out at the end of the day, and actually turned the adjuster the wrong way :doh:

I peeked in the oil filler hole and pulled on the lever. Things move and look as I imagine they should. Nice and clean.

Maybe I was thinking gasoline vs kero.

Heh, that suzuki manual says to use heavyweight motor oil. Yeah, good idea, Suzuki!

Well, just ordered the things.

So the price of that output shaft is $290, great.. And no Triumph specific how-to found yet. But I have the manual, and I saw a how-to for an R6. Looks like I'll be removing the motor (again) this winter, and splitting the case (new to me).

Yeahhhh, you're splitting the cases to replace that.

Honestly...I'd find someone to try to repair the shaft or just buy a new motor. For the normal DIY guys, splitting the cases just doesn't seem worth it when used motors (or just bottom ends) are out there and easy to get on the eBay.

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Originally Posted by island boyeee

never heard of not cleaning... I like my sparkly gold chain, so I'll stick with it. Perhaps a little less thorough though.

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I'm on ~13.5k for a chain/sprocket set on my aprilia and I don't think it's ever been cleaned beyond a quick wipe to remove accumulation. Not much for signs of wear though I haven't measured it yet. Just add more wax. It sure doesn't look pretty though. If you want to keep it looking nice, soak a rag in your preferred cleaner and hold it over the chain while you spin the wheel.

I'm also in the 'lost my nut' camp. Forgot to bend the tab. Nut was long gone.

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Originally Posted by island boyeee

So the price of that output shaft is $290, great.. And no Triumph specific how-to found yet. But I have the manual, and I saw a how-to for an R6. Looks like I'll be removing the motor (again) this winter, and splitting the case (new to me).

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ebay? I bet you can find a bike tear down part for far less. Maybe I'm too much of a slacker when it comes to this stuff, but if that nut threads on and off fine, and the threads that the nut sits on are still good, I'd call this problem solved. Not worth tearing a motor apart over.

By manual, do you mean service manual? If not, find that on a Triumph forum.

Yes I have the service manual. Been through it many times... I had to do a frame swap two years ago. Was surprisingly easy.

Finding a new lower end isn't a bad idea. And I agree that as it is, it should continue working just fine. It's not like that nut is seeing a huge load, it's just holding the sprocket on.

I guess I'll see how motivated I am this winter. If it still looks perfectly fine after the rest of this season, perhaps I will just leave it.

But I'm still going to look into a cost-effective slipper clutch install. I think I'm finally getting fast enough that I could really benefit from less worry about blip-shifting, and use that time to brake later.

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Originally Posted by island boyeee

yeah the washer thing was covered.

never heard of not cleaning... I like my sparkly gold chain, so I'll stick with it. Perhaps a little less thorough though.

The only way tech inspectors would have seen that would be to remove the sprocket cover. I'm going to modify it before I put it back on. Probably drill a 1-2" peep hole in the middle.

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I'd just leave the cover off. Or cut most of it away.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by island boyeee

yeah the washer thing was covered.

never heard of not cleaning... I like my sparkly gold chain, so I'll stick with it. Perhaps a little less thorough though.

The only way tech inspectors would have seen that would be to remove the sprocket cover. I'm going to modify it before I put it back on. Probably drill a 1-2" peep hole in the middle.

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I'd just leave the cover off. Or cut most of it away.

Must be something about Triumph shafts...different story. Anyway, my Speed Four had a clinking noise for awhile that I attributed to some wires or plastic or the kickstand rattling against each other. When I had to replace my chain, which I believe was still the OEM chain at 14k miles, I was greeted with a loose sprocket nut! The only thing holding it on there was the lock washer tab bent over the nut. I am still trying to fathom how it could come from the factory like that. To be tightened so little that it backed off and the lock washer had to keep it on, crazy.

Damn Brits...

At one point I had decided to was going to leave the cover off, years ago. But then when I had it off, I realized I have a few hoses right there (coolant line and 2 overflow houses I believe) and it would be very easy for them to rub on the chain. So I'm not going to leave it off, but I am going to hack it up some.

Man if that nut is secure I'd just forget about it. Safety wire that washer and ride on..

I'm probably stating the obvious but a loose chain and/or worn sprocket can cause a lot of chain slip under deceleration, the sprocket cover is there to keep shoelaces/dirt/pants out AND the chain in, especially under failure. Probably cutting a window wouldn't be a big deal just putting it out there. :)

I know a lot of people on r6s who cut it so they can take the front sprocket off without taking the cover off.

I don't have mine. No side affects. Take it off.

If you ever street ride it with clothes that could get caught...leave it on.