NegativeQuote:
Originally Posted by nhbubba
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NegativeQuote:
Originally Posted by nhbubba
Okay, the pad companies do this on purpose to keep the consumers confused. The HH rating is a measure of the pad's coefficient of friction cold and hot. It rates an "H" for both of those tests. So does almost every other motorcycle pad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Petorius
So EBC has an HH street pad. Cheap. Junk for race use. They also have an EPFA pad for TD/race use, which is rated HH also. Works good for me, costs about double the street pad. And the cherry on top, GPFAX race only, rated HH. Probably not available for lowly SV's.
I can never find the CL pads, so I haven't used them. I've had two bikes come with Vesrahs, the feel wasn't right for me. They may have just been cooked.
Most places only stock the full 120 link chains. Bring your dremel, cutting it down is no problem. Grind off the rivet head and then pop it out with the breaker. Very simple. Don't worry about it.
Lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_E_D
I've got a chain break tool but it doesn't have a rivet press. I used my brothers press and can get it if you need it Pete. It's very simple to break the chain and pretty easy to rivet it IF you have the rivet press. There were specs in the instructions for my ERV3 chain that you measure the squish of each rivet. Get your micrometer and go slow with pressing it.
Yep, cut mine down from 120 to 108 links. Counted about 10 times to make sure I had it right before cutting it.
Interesting that Spiegler has these but they dont even show up on Carbone Lorraine's site. Any idea why?Quote:
Originally Posted by The Snowman
They're there: CL Brakes - Products - Bikes - Product rangeQuote:
Originally Posted by Petorius
But it is interesting that both the CL and Spiegler sites still list C59 pads, which are discontinued and don't list the C60 pads, which are the replacements.
Word is there is a very fast racer out there using stock master, and stock oem pads. I never went poking around close enough for a good look myself, but, it seems everything can work.
Young Pete here has to worry about having the very best equipment imaginable. That's why he races an SV.
He'll probably buy 3 sets of pads and swap them back and forth 5-6 times a weekend, possibly missing practice to do so.
:wub:
Even young Pete should refrain from swapping pads without properly bedding them in...
Brake Pad Bed-In
I tried this once... It's like your pads are made of gravel. 0 fun.
PSA- wear gear when bedding in your pads, accidents do happen when braking hard and the new pads bite!
What I want to know is how to "de-glaze" rotors.
ohhh wha tha fak you do now?Quote:
Originally Posted by carsick
PSA - bedding in pads should consist of just doing a warm-up lap.
For some reason I don't think my warm up laps are exactly the same as yours...Quote:
Originally Posted by OreoGaborio
Honestly if you aren't changing manufacturer / material I don't think this is too big of a deal. A change in material / manufacturer requires additional work, in my (limited) experience.
I misread this as "Ohhh wha the fak DO YOU KNOW?" I was indignant until I realized you were actually showing concern for my well being. I didn't do anything of note, I learned this one from other folk's mistakes. But I have noticed a sharp increase in braking power as fresh rotors and pads get to know each other. Combine that with a cold tire and a dusty paddock road and the unsuspecting could find themselves ass over teakettle.Quote:
Originally Posted by OreoGaborio
Lol, it's funny because my SV650 decision was just as painfully dragged out. And it was the best equipment imaginable at the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by nhbubba
PS I went full 'tard, ordered the C60s. If I dont get 'em in time, I'll grab Vesrahs from Street & Comp. It goes without saying, but I'm sure I won't be able to notice any difference with any of the options discussed.
I'm going to attempt this de-glazing and bed-in business at the track. This is the plan, correct me if I am not understanding some part of this:
Spin the wheel with a green scotch-brite held against both sides of one rotor for a while
Do the other rotor
Clean any residue off with brake cleaner
Go for a ride around the pits braking hard a few times to bring them up to temp but never coming to a stop (so that the material transfers evenly)
Ride around some more trailing the brakes just a tiny bit while everything cools off
Good to go?
Let's simplify that for you...
Soak a scotch-brite pad in brake clean.
Hold each rotor and spin the wheel for a while.
Install new pads
Proceed to hot pit.
Give them hell a few times.
Go race.
Are your rotors actually glazed?
Are you switching from organic to metallic or vice versa?
No & No?
Then let's simplify that even further...
Take old pads off.
Put new pads on.
Ride the thing. :twothumb:
not sure about 2nd gen, but 1st gen nekid has a 10mm longer swingarm and uses a 110 link chain with stock 15/45 sprockets vs the S that has a shorter swingarm and uses a 108 ling chain with stock 15/44 sprockets, when I went to 16/46 on my SV, I needed to run a 112 link chain
Just get a 120 link and cut it down. Kid already owns a dremel. I'll loan him the chain tool. Which he needs to use to rivet the thing anyway.
HThis is about what I did on Monday at the penguin track day. I wiped the rotors with brakekleen, threw the new pads on, did the guided laps easy on and off the brakes, didn't look back. No issues throughout the day.Quote:
Originally Posted by OreoGaborio
I'm with Oreo on this one. Switch the pads, give them a couple squeezes in hot pit to make sure they are there and hit the track. I've never had pads not work.
Did we all miss the step where he needs to replace the master with a radial?
That's more important than pads, rotors, lines, seals, fluid, having a wheel on the bike, knowing how to ride the bike, actually owning a motorcycle or being conscious during the race.