0


I've been doing mine for a few years, but think I need to step up my game. I'm using the cheap HF tire changer (Manual Tire Changer) with Mojoblocks rim protectors and the standard 3pc Motion Pro irons (Tire Iron Set - 8 In, 11 In, 15 In). I've got all types of bikes and use it for everything. I probably change 1-2 tires a month with it.
The HF changer actually works pretty well and has never scratched a rim (it would work much better if I actually secured it to the floor, but space is at a premium and I like being able to move it). I don't like the bead breaker, but it works ok. The issue is probably with the irons: I'm getting a little sick of scratching rims and nearly killing myself with them. What are you guys using? I have never used the big bar that the changer came with, so maybe I should try that, but I'm not too optimistic about it working any better. Plus the center bar is too big for anything short of a Harley axle. I'm looking at all of the accessories No-Mar offers and they all seem like they'd help, but they are pretty expensive. I used to use these and they were amazing (XtraHand Clamp | Tire Tool | No-Mar Tire Changer | Cycle Hill Tire Changer). All of the spoons No Mar has look great, but they're sold in pairs and I've never needed less than 3, which means spending $120+ in spoons (or I guess get one pair and a clamp...).
Anyone ever plasti-dipped tire irons? I wonder how well it would hold up...
Any good hacks or workarounds?
Just rambling....feel free to interject thoughts or ideas.
Last edited by nick5446; 03-25-16 at 09:35 AM.
Good hack : After you break the bead on both sides of the tire (which is a real pain...I used two really big "C" clamps, and it is not easy) put 4 big Zip Ties around the tire. (at 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock) Around the tire only, not the rim of course. Then pull tight so the tire beads are held together. Once you do that, the tire comes off the rim pretty easily. I used a couple of long screwdrivers with duct tape on the ends. Doesn't take much force. Installation of the new tire is the same. Use the 4 Zip Ties on the new tire, and it will go on the rim easily. Then cut the Zip Ties after you have the paint dot lined up with the valve stem. Make sure the head of the Zip Tie is on the outside of the tire, not between the tire and rim. The Zip Tie will slide right out once you cut it.
Use a ratchet strap around the tire to flare the beads when you put air in the tire to seat the beads. (good advice someone gave me last month)
But I don't do this monthly like you, so maybe you can justify spending more money on better tools.
The Mojoblocks guy makes a mounting arm that is pretty slick. I bought it. It isn't cheap, but I think it's worth it.
I also have problems with the center bar on the HF setup. I recently saw someone who threw out the upper arm assembly entirely and just dropped a bit of solid rod through the wheel. Claimed it worked well enough.
I have never bothered to try anything like dipping irons as I only really use the irons on dirt wheels.. and eff those things. My dirt wheels are all pre-scratched.
I do occasionally use the Motion Pro rim protectors. Sometimes I think they create more problems than they are worth. They are kinda thick and add to how much you need to stretch the bead.
Paul bought this : Rabaconda shop - 3-Minute Dirt Bike Tire Changer
Looks effing awesome to me. Price is somewhere between reasonable and not; towards the reasonable side of things. Especially since it folds up.
I just use two of the large curved Motion Pro tire irons and one of the medium-sized straight ones, along with a Harbor Freight bead breaker. I don't bother with rim protectors because I really don't give a shit if I scratch the rims.
--mark
'20 Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro / '19 Triumph Scrambler 1200 XE / '11 Triumph Tiger 800 XC / '01 Triumph Bonneville cafe
My ride reports: Missile silos, Labrador, twisties, and more
Bennington Triumph Bash, Oct 1-3, 2021
14 Triumph Street Triple R, 18 TM 450SMX sumo, 15 Husky 250SXF tard, 14 KTM 250SXF and Cole's Grom
LRRS/CCS #66
Thank you to my sponsors: Sidi / AMSOIL / Klutch Industries
That sounds like the ticket since I'm most of the way there anyway.
I haven't used the zip tie method in a long time, but it could be worth revisiting. How well would that work on a 180 that's old and hard (theoretical worst case scenario for me)?
I generally don't mind scratching my rims, especially since most of my bikes are old and most have silver rims, but I recently scratched the shit out of my otherwise mint black Bandit rims.
For $120, I'll probably buy the Mojobar next time I'm planning on doing a few tires. This stuff pays for itself so quickly when you compare it to spending $20+ per wheel to have someone else do it.
Also, I'll probably remove the whole upper section of the HF changer...it's just in the way if you're not using that bar, which I've given up on.
I use a HF attached to a palette with MOJO blocks and MOJO bar works great once I figure out on how to use the bar. I haven't scratch a rim yet.
What are you guys using for a pivot with the bar?
With spoons and and an 8 inch C clamp when i have to. My machine the rest of the time. Unless it's remote then I use a Joel and Colin as needed to get the job done.
As for kinks. For tube tires a little baby powder helps make the tube easier to install and cuts down on chaffing.
I have a variety pack of spoons. The best one is the little motion pro with the special little lip.
Practice.
The older I get the Faster I wuz
I use the same HF tire changer + HF "motorcycle tire changer attachment". Replaced the center rod with some steel pipe from home depot as it was too big. Built a base out of some 4x4 and plywood and bolted it down.
The bar works but leaves red paint all over my rims.. so I wrap some duct tape on it and have a bunch of squares cut from a laundry detergent bottle. Soap & water everything then slip them over the bar and use a screwdriver for assistance.
Works okay but easy to scratch those rims up. Thought about plasti-dip too - not sure if it would be tough enough.
Had a hell of a time mounting my rear last time and ended up clamping the tire down to the HF mount, then running ratchet straps inside the tire and around the center stand. Cranked it down hard until it pulled the tire over, worked a charm and saved my sanity.
Heard about the zip-tie trick but always worried it would pinch the shit out of my tires so I haven't tried it..
Tires are pretty pliable in that respect.
I have mine bolted to a shipping pallet. It's too light and/or not big enough. Would much rather have it on a bigger, heavier or better secured base.
Yeah my base is kind of annoying too but I think it would work fine if the tool was lower. So hard to get leverage with the HF tool it's practically chest height..
That's a good point. It doesn't have to be that tall. Hmm...
3 irons, 2x4 bead breaker, $70 HF compressor
The calculus of hate
It is not that I should win it is that you should lose
It is not that I succeed it is that you fail
It is not that I should live it is that you should die
2x4 bead breaker.
Mount the HF tire changer to one end of a sheet of plywood.. Park car on other end of plywood sheet to keep it from spining while removing tire. Ratchet strap around rim to keep it from rotating on HF piece of shit tire changer. Made Mojo blocks but bought the Mojo bar,. Great bar.
Bought a 1/2 gallon of tire lube from the auto parts store. Stuff looks like snot but works great on making the bead slide over the rim.
I use one of those yellow clamp things from Nomar to hold the bead in place (worth the $$). As others have suggested the best rim protectors are just sheets cut from detergent or orange juice bottles. Tough stuff thats very thin.
Whenever I find I'm struggling with a tire I'm reminded its all about keeping the beads in the center of the rim.
Forgot to add I'll use a ratchet strap around the circumference of the arms that hold the arms tight to the rim. That threaded rod is a waste of time.
With the mojo blocks, I've found I do not need to strap the wheel down.
Trick I spotted @ a track day: Unbolt the up and over arm, toss it. Put a rod down through the wheel bearings into the bottom shaft of the changer. Use that as the pivot. Way easier without the upper arms in place. Wrap the rod in foam or rubber to protect the bearings.
I use a No-Mar Jr pro and it gets the job done with out scratching up the rims. I always ask the owner to clean the rim to reduce the chance of scratching.