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Hey guys, add to this with your traditions/rituals if you'd like... I didn't even search for old threads with similar topics (I know there has to be several on nesr), because I did this for a local auto enthusiast forum where there's fewer bikers with less experience... figured I'd cut and paste and read what you all do...
Hey guys, just a reminder to do this before it gets too cold and you guys are afraid to go out and work on the bike:
1. Fresh oil change - your clutch and motor share the same oil supply - unless your oil change is less than 500 miles old (and even then) you have measurable debris, and you do NOT want it to sit all winter. I recommend a 10W40 or thinner to sit in the motor all winter, and a new filter.
2. Coolant - most street bikes should be ok from factory, but if you've added any water, or if you like to be safe "sweeten" up your coolant to avoid any freezing in the block, water pump, radiator, or overflow. If you add coolant (please don't ask if you can use automotive coolant) - be sure to let the bike run until it comes up to temp before turning it off for the winter.
3. Dry gas - It's a good idea to use a couple capfuls of (automotive) dry gas in your bikes tank - I'd recommend a full tank and one capful per gallon of dry gas. If you have a plastic tank, this is less necessary but still helpful. Carb'd bikes - TURN YOUR FUEL OFF. All bikes - whether you use dry gas or not, don't expect to go street racing on this tank of gas in the spring - it's diluted enough to effect combustion. In my race bike I'd siphon it out, on a street bike I use it up in my springtime shake-down run. DO NOT leave your tank dry, this can lead to dry rotting and cracking of o-rings in the fuel system. If you have access to Viscor or another fuel substitution that is less harmful to rubber and silicon, use this, and drain tank completely in the spring (I'm lucky this year - getting some for free!).
4. Battery - Many bikes have serviceable batteries, but serviceable or maintenance free, get a battery tender, or similar device (Wal-Mart sells a budget one for $14.99 that works great) and leave this on trickle charge (low current 1-2 amp) for a couple days each month. It is important that if you are using a kickstand on the bike (side or center) that you separate the kickstand from your cement floor with a rubber mat. The moisture in the cement will act as a ground and drain and/or ruin the battery. If you are using metal bike stands without rubber pads, you will have this problem on the front side, and if you have metal spools, on the rear too. (yes, aluminum DOES work as a conductor). I recommend removing your battery and storing it indoors in a warm, non-grounded location, only needing a trickle charge (and maybe a top-off of distilled water for serviceable batteries) in the spring.
5. Tires - Over inflate tires 5-10psi over sidewall recommendation (when that cold air hits, this will drop... This is a good Idea even in a heated garage if you plan on leaving the bike on it's wheels all winter) I recommend getting the bike up on stands - if you don’t have bike stands or want to spend the money, you can use 2x4s and automotive jack stands ($19.99 a pair many places). If the bike is off the ground, over inflation is not necessary.
Those are the basics... It's always a good idea to get the bike started up every month (when you charge the battery) or so, in order to reposition the pistons in the sleeves - I like to be cautious.