WOOT! 14.3 volts, baby!

[OreoGaborio]

Hells yeah!

Been having charging issues with the Tuono, but only if I have a heavy load on the system. The voltage at the battery was regularly dropping below 12 volts if I had the heated grips, high beams & brake lights all on.

But... after adding two wires that go directly from the output harness of the rectifier/regulator to the battery (well, the - is going to the - post on the battery, the + is tapped into a wire just on the other side of a fuse box that's right by the battery) I'm seeing roughly 14.3 volts max at the battery.

Now I can fire up the grips, highbeams, heated vest, brake lights etc & I shouldn't have any problems

[richw]

If it stays up there you'll cook the battery

CHeck again after 20 minutes of riding when battery back up to full should be a tick over 13.5

[OreoGaborio]

My battery is low right now, it's around 11.4. But yeah, 14.3 volts looked high to me, but it's comparable to all of the voltages that these guys are getting & these threads are 5 years old... no one's had issues so far


http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=30014
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...threadid=28118

[Kurlon]

Common practice on older Ducs with charging issues or failed reg/rectifier assemblies was to just wire them direct off the stator and to the battery, bypass the bike's harness completely. Worked great.

[Cerberus]

14.3 is not too high
13.5 is a bit too low

13.8-14.2 is often considered ideal

edit: a fully FULLY charged battery can read up to about 12.8 volts, so any less than that from your electrical system while it should be charging can be considered not charging..
though some systems create almost no power at an idle..
most books i've seen say to check the bike's charge system at about 5000 rpm

[Honclfibr]

Common practice on older Ducs with charging issues or failed reg/rectifier assemblies was to just wire them direct off the stator and to the battery, bypass the bike's harness completely. Worked great.

You ever see an old car battery where the regulator failed shorted? Yeah, they swell up and explode. Maybe they get away with it on the old ducs because the stator can't source that much current. But I wouldn't trust it, not when the batteries on most bikes are located directly under the nuttal region.

[Honclfibr]

Pete, what you did was decrease the resistance between the output of the regulator and the battery, which decreases the voltage drop between the regulator and the battery under heavy load (V=IR, so lower R means lower V drop through the wiring). This should never be a bad thing.

[OreoGaborio]

I like my nuttal region.

Pete, what you did was decrease the resistance between the output of the regulator and the battery, which decreases the voltage drop between the regulator and the battery under heavy load (V=IR, so lower R means lower V drop through the wiring). This should never be a bad thing.

Ed Zachary

[Cerberus]

Common practice on older Ducs with charging issues or failed reg/rectifier assemblies was to just wire them direct off the stator and to the battery, bypass the bike's harness completely. Worked great.

You ever see an old car battery where the regulator failed shorted? Yeah, they swell up and explode. Maybe they get away with it on the old ducs because the stator can't source that much current. But I wouldn't trust it, not when the batteries on most bikes are located directly under the nuttal region.

:iws: not to mention, bypassing the regulator would give you max current to the battery, but bypassing the rectifier would send AC current to the battery...

[OreoGaborio]

Yup. See now you guys are talking in terms I can understand

Now go answer this question
http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/...-question.html

[Kurlon]

Ok, guess I missed a part in my description, I meant wire the NEW REGULATOR/RECTIFIER direct, rather than using any of the existing harness on the bike... sheesh.