Thinking about putting motard wheels/tires on my Husky 701 Enduro, and bringing it to some track days. What else would you do to it? 4.25" vs. 5" rear? Steering damper?
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Thinking about putting motard wheels/tires on my Husky 701 Enduro, and bringing it to some track days. What else would you do to it? 4.25" vs. 5" rear? Steering damper?
Rick Breen raced one, he'd be a good place to start for some suggestions?
I would do nothing to it. Show up and rip it. Seriously.
Turbo or big bore kit.
I didn't think there was another bookend beyond "full race prep" and "nothing," but somehow Clayton managed to find it.
"Sportsman" style?
If it helps, I now own 4.25 and 5" rears for my WR450F conversion. I can't tell the difference when riding, only when trying to fit that 5" rear doing swaps. The 5" is a huge pain in the ass and required I disassemble the chain guide, swear profusely, sacrafice a virgin, and break out the BFH. Done over again I'd have two 4.25" wheels.
I got chain slap with the 4.25 but didn't with the 5. That's why I went with the 5 as well as being able to use the whole tire.Quote:
Originally Posted by nhbubba
I think he's talking 17s"? On a 701 the 5 in should fit fine. This isn't an MX bike we are talking about. You guys are comparing apples to oranges here.
The 17" rear wheel on the factory 701SM is a 5.00" width so that shouldn't be any cause for concern.
Like Paul said nothing is not a bad option.
If you're going with 17" wheels you could see if there is a spacer available for the front caliper to allow you to run a larger diameter front rotor. Maybe some different brake pads. Other than that it should be a fun ride as it sits. If it ever becomes a track dedicated toy then the suspension and brakes would come into play but to get out there and have fun, grip it and rip it.
As I said, if it helps.
I assumed we were talking about enduro -> SM conversion with 17's at both ends.
Yep, enduro->SM conversion with 17's on both ends. The stock front rotor on the Enduro is 300mm, and feels *very* effective on the street with the 21" front knobby. Obviously no idea how it'll feel with a sticky 17 hauling down from 100mph, but my gut says the front fork will cause more puckering / confidence-loss than the brakes.
I was able to overpower the ~260mm front on my WR easily. It was susceptible to fade in a way I hadn't experienced on a motorcycle. 300mm is likely better. Probably worth a shot before throwing money at it.
Aside from hoops and rubber, hi temp brake fluid up front would be my only other want for the first out.
I would bet that the 300mm rotor will be ok for track days. Was merely a suggestion.Quote:
Originally Posted by feralchimp
I am used to motards with bigger rotors and bigger calipers. Have a couple '06 Husqvarna SM510R and a '17 Husqvarna 701 SM in the stable that all have big Brembo calipers and big rotors. I like brakes.
You need big brakes. Lol As do I. P=MVQuote:
Originally Posted by tls25rs
Touche' fellow big manQuote:
Originally Posted by Rada
Gas just Gas. I'm not trying to be funny, show up and ride it. That's the best part of a motard. If the chain rubs who cares anyway it makes 0% difference, you can't get a tard that low where it would hurt. Smaller tires are better on those bikes anyway. It has less mass and turns quicker. It's all torque not HP.
On the flip side, I raced at NHMS one weekend on my WR265ZD on a bone stock, 240mm fixed rotor with a stock caliper setup. Damn thing survived and did OK without noticeable fade but the rotor turned into a salad bowl when I took it off the wheel. :D
Again... P=MV hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Kurlon
Like others have said just ride it. You may have desire for a stronger front brake at some point but I bet it is super fun as is. Scope creep will become a problem if you are OCD enough.
When I first got my motard I figured it would function off road well enough. It does and fire roads are a blast but in any real rough conditions it is simply way too stiff. Enduro and track suspensions are two different animals. Mine shines on the street/track but suffers off road. I wouldn't be surprised if yours was the opposite.
None of that should stop you from having fun though.
I somehow managed to thread the needle with my old DRZ. I had it sprung stiff enough to hold up to a pretty decent pace on pavement, yet not suck in the woods. I even took it out on an MX course and found I could jump it without dying. I was pretty impressed. Somehow felt a little more confident running around my little backyard practice track on that thing than I did my KTM 200 "woods" bike. And I like to think I ran it pretty hard at track days and the like.
The most annoying thing for me switching genres was gearing. Geared for a track day was clutch city in the woods. Geared for the woods was dangerously slow on pavement. Easy swaps were thwarted by chain length. I finally found a combination that let me use the same chain and front sprocket, but was a compromise for both kinds of riding.
I bet the Husky has that fancy reversible chain block thingy to account for gearing changes.Quote:
Originally Posted by nhbubba
That block is good for a tooth in the front, it’s not really going to cover the gap between dual sport and motard gearing, much less woods or motard gearing.Quote:
Originally Posted by klp
Ooooh?!Quote:
Originally Posted by klp
Thanks guys. Any suggestions for gearing appropriate for Loudon / Canaan?
More total noob questions:
The more affordable wheelsets (spoked Warp9's) still require tubes, correct?
It seems weird/wrong to put <insert sportbike tire here> over tubes. Is that just what people do? What tubes are made for 17's?
Are there reliable make-this-wheel-tubeless solutions that are way cheaper than springing for tubeless supermoto wheels? Are those less of a pain once you have them, or is the value proposition 20% performance benefit and 80% bling?
Don't sweat the tubes, 17" tubes are readily available and work just fine in tubeless tires. I actually buy 16" rim strips meant for Harleys as they are wider and sit better for me in sumo rims. You have to STRETCH them on, but once in place they work great.
No experience with the warp 9's. 99% sure their spoked offerings are going to require tubes. No, nothing weird about that. Guys stuff tubes inside all sorts of tires, clear through race slicks. The tires don't care.
I've run Bridgestone and Pirelli performance-street/sport tires, plus Pirelli and Metzler race rubber with tubes. No issues.
I think I'm using Michelin tubes now. I feel like I ran Continentals at one point, can't remember now.. No issues worth reporting. (I had a pinch flat this one time at Boxshop-camp.)
Tubeless conversion sounds interesting. I have 2 sets of wheels I'd be tempted to do it with if it works out for you. Keep me/us posted.
That guy is batty on his asking price. You can get that same setup NEW for what he's asking if you dig around. Highest I'd personally offer on that set of used wheels is $1k.Quote:
Originally Posted by csmutty
These are the tubeless alternative I was hoping not to consider:
http://www.thecyclehouse.com/warp-9-...ls-with-tires/
Just run tubes
Thanks again, guys.
Just to pass along what I learned before I ordered spoked wheels from the cycle house:
- warp9 front uses a 300mm rotor to match the stock front, so they don't ship with a caliper relocator bracket
- stock speedo and ABS should work fine
I went with the 5" rear, white wheels with blue hubs, got the shorter kickstand (yay!) and opted to use stock gearing/chain.
Went with Pirelli Rosso 2's since I'll be breaking in the bike on the street.