Dirty bike options

[lrrs313]

Hah, yeah, that's part of the plan, beg/borrow/steal to get some saddle time THEN buy. And I fully agree about the TTR/XR suggestions, if I wanted a piece of agricultural equipment I'd get an HD and throw knobbies on it. (Now I have to find that thread of the Sportster being ridden in an MX endurance event...)

Bring gear next time I'm over at 207 or Hemond's. You're welcome to ride the 450.

[Kurlon]

Bring gear next time I'm over at 207 or Hemond's. You're welcome to ride the 450.

Either you think I'm a better rider than I think I am, or you're hoping I total your 450 so you can get something newer? : )

[lrrs313]

Either you think I'm a better rider than I think I am, or you're hoping I total your 450 so you can get something newer? : )

I wouldn't mind a 2010 YZ450F.....but seriously, throttle control is all you need. The 450s (especially YZFs) aren't the fire-breathing, unrideable beasts they are made out to be. Sure, they can be in the right hands, but I've seen 85s turn faster laps than a lot of people can go on 450s. You saw me ride at 207 -- I'm not exactly great on a dirty bike. And I'm pretty sure you're not going to hurt it.

[csmutty]

Bring gear next time I'm over at 207 or Hemond's. You're welcome to ride the 450.

Don't do itttt.

[lrrs313]

Come to think of it Josh, you should wreck my 450. I really want a Service Honda CR500AF or KX500AF......

[seth399]

Haha

[Kurlon]

http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/1588027505.html <- Good starter bike? : )
http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/1587094684.html <- Cheap, but I've no idea how that bike would behave?

[csmutty]

I have an 81 XR200 that runs for 100 if you want it...

[Kurlon]

I'd like an MX machine this time around, I learned on Honda XRs and don't want to spend the time and money to get the engines where I want them, or try to drop weight and get a viable suspension. The price does appeal to my cheap nature, but at the moment I'm going to stick to my 2 stroke MX plans.

[csmutty]

I'd like an MX machine this time around, I learned on Honda XRs and don't want to spend the time and money to get the engines where I want them, or try to drop weight and get a viable suspension. The price does appeal to my cheap nature, but at the moment I'm going to stick to my 2 stroke MX plans.

Sounds good...just thought I'd throw it out there.

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/mcy/1588476065.html

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/mcy/1587664679.html

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/mcy/1587655591.html

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/mcy/1586555565.html

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/mcy/1586417384.html

[lrrs313]

That CR500 could be a great start to a motard build.......

IIRC the YZs from that era were fairly mellow bikes. As I said before, I'd go with a 250 for a beginner bike before the 125 because they actually have a little bit more bottom end and can be ridden outside the powerband. The tracks near you are big, open tracks where you might like the extra juice at times (especially once you get a little bit of experience).

[lrrs313]

Sounds good...just thought I'd throw it out there.

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/mcy/1588476065.html

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/mcy/1587664679.html

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/mcy/1587655591.html

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/mcy/1586555565.html

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/mcy/1586417384.html

All are overpriced, IMO. I wouldn't pay $1k for a 10+ year old 125.

[csmutty]

All are overpriced, IMO. I wouldn't pay $1k for a 10+ year old 125.

Yep, I know that. As is everything else on cg. But glad you picked that up

And as to trying to tell you which bike to get, just go look at some and try them out. I can't tell you what you want.

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/mcy/1585794885.html

[Fast_Eddie]

http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/1588027505.html <- Good starter bike? : )
http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/1587094684.html <- Cheap, but I've no idea how that bike would behave?

Wow, that CR500 brings back memories. I had that exact bike 15 years ago. That bike is only one thing, EVIL. 60HP and no power valve to smooth the hit. I wouldn't buy another one even if it wasn't a POS. There are good YZ's out there If your patient.

[seth399]

man I want a cr500 so bad....for no good reason, I don't even think I'd ride it much, I'd just restore and look at it.

That 01 rm csmutty linked looks like it could be a decent bike, 144kit might be nice as well (over a stock 125). Those 01 and up rm's are pretty sweet bikes. I raced a buddies 01 125 and 250 back in the day and they were fun, yz-ish in a way.

[breakdirt916]

http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/1588027505.html <- Good starter bike? : )
http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/1587094684.html <- Cheap, but I've no idea how that bike would behave?

veterans please comment if I'm not correct here!

Kurlon, I'm starting to see what your price range is, and I strongly encourage you to increase it just slightly

For some reason, for every $100 less you spend under a grand, the bike gets 5-10 years older. And I wouldn't recommend an older "cheap" bike, because chances are it'll need some work and you'll end up spending $1,000-$1,500 anyways when you're done (ask Mondo). Not to mention the technology (suspension!) will change how the bike rides.

So how much do you increase your budget by? Based on the way I see prices go on craigslist, I'd say the breaking point where you can get a much newer bike for about the same money is ~$1,000-$1,500. I've seen 1989 bikes "done over" for $1,100 and 2002 bikes "done over" for $1,100...so aim to spend ~ that much.

When you're looking, try to find the bike with either the lowest # of hours possible, or one that has pretty much everything done on it (and you can tell if it was actually done by talking to the seller...some guys won't know how many hours on the top end, what kind of jetting, if the bike's setup for woods or mx, when they last changed the tranny fluid, etc.). Remember, MX bikes are not designed for longevity, and they consume parts more than an XR or TTR would, which can get expensive.

Did the owner never replace the bottom end, while the top end is on its way out? Factor in another $300-$500. Does the clutch stick, even with the lever pulled in to disengage it? Chances are the clutch basket is toast, so factor in another $200 plus $80 for new plates/springs/gaskets. Are the front forks starting to leak? Consider another $260 dropped off at a shop, as part of the requirements to bring the bike up to spec. All of these could need to get done on a $550 bike, so already you're spending another $900+ to bring it up to the point where you can ride it on the track, and you still have a 19 year old bike. For $1,200 you could have bought a completely done-up 2002 bike and started riding it (and customizing it...I'm guessing you want ice tires too??) right away. That's the bike you want.

So keep searching, and if you can, keep those tips in mind. If you want to ride an RM125 with a 144 stroker engine, you're welcome to try mine.

did I get that right guys?

[lrrs313]

Bhavesh, you've hit it pretty well. The other point I would make is that once you get past a certain age (probably around 10 years old, not sure) it starts to become harder to get aftermarket parts for the bike. Not that parts can't be had, but your options as to where you get them become fewer.

Keep in mind also when considering bikes the consumables factor. The higher-revving bikes (125s and 250Fs) go through parts a lot more rapidly than bikes that don't need their necks wrung to make them move (250 2-strokes and 450Fs). Not that they are hard to work on, just that it can be very discouraging to be sinking a lot of time and money into a bike you just bought.

I'm going to a friend of mine's tonite and I'll try remember to ask him if he knows of anyone trying to get rid of a 125 around here.

[Fast_Eddie]

Josh, when you save enough money to actually buy a bike, let me know. I have been considering buying a 200 XC-W this spring. I would like to sell my 2002 YZ125 to sombody I know. It's in almost new condition. It's not that I didn't ride it, I rode it a lot. When any part wasn't perfect, I replaced it. The entire top and bottom end were replaced the week before I bought it (1 season ago). All bearings except the linkage were replaced this summer. New FMF Q silencer and correct jetting. Rear shock re-valved for woods by GMD (I swapped it from my YZ250 when I sold it) Front was already done by FC when I got it. I Removed 1 hs shim from the base valve and it was perfectly matched to the rear.

There are pictures in this thread. http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/...6-09-pics.html

[csmutty]

Josh, when you save enough money to actually buy a bike, let me know. I have been considering buying a 200 XC-W this spring. I would like to sell my 2002 YZ125 to sombody I know. It's in almost new condition. It's not that I didn't ride it, I rode it a lot. When any part wasn't perfect, I replaced it. The entire top and bottom end were replaced the week before I bought it (1 season ago). All bearings except the linkage were replaced this summer. New FMF Q silencer and correct jetting. Rear shock re-valved for woods by GMD (I swapped it from my YZ250 when I sold it) Front was already done by FC when I got it. I Removed 1 hs shim from the base valve and it was perfectly matched to the rear.

There are pictures in this thread. http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/...6-09-pics.html

I would go for this if I were you dude...

I would just throw a new top end in it when you get it. Cheap insurance for a 2 stroke. And that way you can see what shape the engine is in.

[lrrs313]

I would go for this if I were you dude...

I would just throw a new top end in it when you get it. Cheap insurance for a 2 stroke. And that way you can see what shape the engine is in.

And send the suspension to FC to get it valved/sprung for your weight/ability/riding style. Makes a big difference on a stock MX bike, let alone one that has been valved and sprung for woods.

[csmutty]

And send the suspension to FC to get it valved/sprung for your weight/ability/riding style. Makes a big difference on a stock MX bike, let alone one that has been valved and sprung for woods.

Ehh FC is ok for a baseline setting...but if you go to GMD imo they can better suit it to your personal needs.

[seth399]

Ehh FC is ok for a baseline setting...but if you go to GMD imo they can better suit it to your personal needs.

really? factory connection who has pro mx/sx team that uses stock forks and shock to start out with?

only thing I saw that I would disagree above by bhavesh is "looking for bike with most done to it". Finding a bike that is tight and close to stock is a good bet in my opinion. Unless it is a bike from a racer (or any compentent person) who knew how to take care of it and made modifications accordingly.

[csmutty]

really? factory connection who has pro mx/sx team that uses stock forks and shock to start out with?

only thing I saw that I would disagree above by bhavesh is "looking for bike with most done to it". Finding a bike that is tight and close to stock is a good bet in my opinion. Unless it is a bike from a racer (or any compentent person) who knew how to take care of it and made modifications accordingly.

My point is that FC is a bigger company and you don't get a chance to talk to the guy who is working on your suspension.

And I would have to agree with buying a bike with alot of mods. If you don't buy a bike that is modded, you will want to buy the mods later and end up spending more money.

[lrrs313]

My point is that FC is a bigger company and you don't get a chance to talk to the guy who is working on your suspension.

Actually, you can. Both before and after the work is done, it is very easy to call FC and speak with the person who is working on it. Hell, I was talking with Steve Ross (head of Factory Connection) this summer at MX207 when I was there riding. And Ziggy (the owner) is pretty approachable too. His kid races locally (out of one of the old FC trucks).

[seth399]

Yes, FC are local as well. They have separate west coast office.