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street legal 2-strokes

  1. #1001
    Lifer Kurlon's Avatar
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    Re: street legal 2-strokes


    My cables don't have that chaffing?

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  2. #1002
    Lifer
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    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    That's a yamaha factory feature

    I've got a cable or two that's very worn. It's usually only a subtle change that needs to happen to minimize it. Some are hard to get to zero, but you can slow the wear to the point that it doesn't really matter.

    Quote Originally Posted by typeone View Post
    93mm sag, so do you run MX settings? seems low for desert riding unless that linkage requires different settings? i would think you'd be out around ~110-112mm and forks dropped in clamps.
    His bones are hollow like a bird.

    If you're pounding whoops in 5th, I'd rake the bike out. But if you care about turn in and don't feel like the front end's too flighty, I wouldn't make too many changes yet.

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  3. #1003

    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    Good pointers! I will add some sort of buffer; I donít want to be surprised on the trail

    But the 93mm sag has to do with what the magazines wrote about in 1994. They all know the factory linkage sucks, and without the DeVol linkage the rear rides low and bounces all over the place under load. Their trial and error suggested that you will hate 100mm of sag, but at 93mm it will be better.

    Honestly Iíve never set the sag, and can ride the bike as-is, but I am very curious about how different it is with the different sag and the Devol linkage

    No MX for me, or jumps in 5th...just desert/hard pack trail riding. Maybe 110 sag with some clicker adjustment is all I need

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    Last edited by breakdirt916; 12-01-20 at 04:44 PM.

  4. #1004
    Lifer typeone's Avatar
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    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    got it. right, easy enough to test what you like for your conditions. a good rule of thumb for sag settings is 33-34% of total shock travel for offroad / 28-31% MX.

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  5. #1005
    Lifer
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    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    Quote Originally Posted by breakdirt916 View Post
    But the 93mm sag has to do with what the magazines wrote about in 1994.

    Maybe 110 sag with some clicker adjustment is all I need
    Whatever point you decide to start at, ride it a bit, then go back to the truck and turn the collar 3 turns. If you start at 110, tighten the preload by 3 and test. That should give you a better idea if you're in the right ballpark, and help develop a feel for what you prefer. I'd try to start somewhere around where you were before. If the bike's still apart, paint one of the preload collar's tabs a bright color and it'll be easier than counting tabs while you're hammering away.

    I've found if I'm going in circles with clicker adjustment to tweak turn-in or deflection, it's because I'm trying to 'tune' the geometry with the clickers. In other words, I should be looking at sag and fork height.

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  6. #1006

    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    hmm...I'm thinking a good place to test this, is a location I vowed never to go to: an MX track

    I asked the machine shop if they could press in bearings on the stock linkage and they seemed a little hesitant. Turns out that job for them is far and few between; so I took the stock linkage w' the pivot works kit to the dirtbike/atv shop he recommended nearby. Not using the first guy again

    so I'll have 2 rebuilt linkages now: the Devol & stock

    machine shop didn't say anything about "oh we're almost done..." so I'm guessing it won't be ready this week. Will do other stuff tomorrow.

    Could ride the Ninja like I did today, but idk, some days I just hate it.



    I already have a Lezyne bicycle pump, but apparently I got the wrong one.

    I should have the high volume/low pressure.

    Keeping two CO2 cartridges too.

    another stay/safer/lockdown/quarantine home thingie going on. Perfect opportunity to spend hours at a time in an 8x8 shed working on a 90's 2-stroke.

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    Last edited by breakdirt916; 12-07-20 at 07:02 PM.
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  7. #1007
    Lifer Kurlon's Avatar
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    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    What's wrong with an MX track visit? I quite enjoy my time at them.

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  8. #1008

    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    risk exposure goes up

    I'm not a safe/trained rider

    that's the only place I usually get hurt on a bike

    I guess it's fine for controlled environment testing though

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    Last edited by breakdirt916; 12-07-20 at 07:06 PM.
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  9. #1009
    Lifer
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    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    I initially ignored MX tracks too. "Not applicable" I naively thought. I also incorrectly thought a lot of MX body technique was N/A for the woods, but have recently opened my eyes to how I still use it on a trail, just only for brief moments. Focus on the turns, traction, ruts, braking, body position etc instead of going big on the jumps if you're looking to keep the risk down.

    Great place to dial in geometry because you can keep hitting the same turns, and it's easy to make adjustments being parked 5 feet away. Good for a shake-down run after doing work too.

    I have two Lezyne's. A skinny ~9inch Road Drive variant I've used for years on my MTB, and a ~9inch wide-body high volume one. I prefer the skinny one. You have to pump more, but it's almost no resistance. The wider pump I find strangely difficult and that matters when your arms are already jello. It's still in my bag though, so it isn't that big of a deal. Co2 cartridges are extra weight, and easy to accidentally burn one up. Pump's with you anyways, unlimited use, and no consumables. I've pumped several moto tires from completely flat with a Lenzyne. It doesn't take nearly as long as some might guess, although it feels longer than it is.

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  10. #1010

    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    right on!

    I think I may venture to an MX day for suspension testing.

    I found the compression clicker control on my forks - they're on the bottom

    looks like the fussing I did up top was just the rebound...which is now backed all the way out. That would explain why the forks fire right at your face when you hit stuff. I need to add more clicks there.

    alright, for the first time in all my years on 2 wheels, I swapped it:



    myself

    2 rides ago, my friend Mr. Prepared got a nail on his 701....I tried to help and failed. On LAB2V my friend got a flat on his 650R on the end of day 1...it's only a matter of time before it's me. Learn to do it yourself at home when you don't have an urgency to get home before dark.

    Took me about an hour, but I did it with the tools in my pack.

    these are neat:



    helps you pull the valve stem through the rim, and carries a valve stem remover

    I'm considering 2 sets of rims setup as:
    1.) one set w' heavy duty tubes
    2.) one set w' nitro mousse foam inserts

    the question is: would I put the mousse in the 18" WR rim or the 19" YZ rim?

    the 19 seems would be more likely to puncture since it's a lower profile?

    also, the motor is done!

    and the same shop thought they were rebuilding the Devol linkage

    no dammit, it's been rebuilt...just timesert those threads please

    "should be done by today or tomorrow"

    yeah...I'll come next Tuesday

    once the linkage and motor come back, I can start buttoning her back together and fire her up. Hopefully the upcoming days for the Covid shots aren't too bad and I get some free days to finish her up. Hoping for a desert day by 1/23!

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    Last edited by breakdirt916; 12-16-20 at 10:51 PM.
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  11. #1011
    Lifer
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    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    Quote Originally Posted by breakdirt916 View Post
    I found the compression clicker control on my forks - they're on the bottom
    Rule of thumb: open forks, compression is on the bottom rebound up top. Closed cartridge forks typically the opposite. You've been riding around with basically undamped rebound as a 135lb rider? Must chatter like crazy? I keep trying to speed up my rebound, but end up working my way back to slow. I think I'm only 5-6 clicks out from bottomed right now on OE valving.
    Quote Originally Posted by breakdirt916 View Post
    Learn to do it yourself at home when you don't have an urgency to get home before dark.

    these are neat:
    helps you pull the valve stem through the rim, and carries a valve stem remover
    I still suck at moto tire changes despite all the practice. Can takes quite a bit of practice IMO to be repeatably quick at it.

    I just bought essentially the same tool for my last swap and it did help a bit. Seems like most of the time, I don't have much trouble getting the valve stem lined up. But when I do, it refuses to happen.
    Quote Originally Posted by breakdirt916 View Post
    the 19 seems would be more likely to puncture since it's a lower profile?
    Yep, in theory. But does having one of each mean the 19's for MX days and 18's for trails? If so, flats on the trail are a much annoying problem than a flat at the track.

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  12. #1012

    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    Quote Originally Posted by aldend123 View Post
    Rule of thumb: open forks, compression is on the bottom rebound up top. Closed cartridge forks typically the opposite. You've been riding around with basically undamped rebound as a 135lb rider? Must chatter like crazy? I keep trying to speed up my rebound, but end up working my way back to slow. I think I'm only 5-6 clicks out from bottomed right now on OE valving.
    lol, yup...undamped rebound... I suck. It is an open cartridge fork.

    maybe that's why I hated it here:



    lower speeds, more whopped out, bumpier, will get you deeper in the stroke, where the lack of rebound is more pronounced

    and it doesn't bother me as much here:



    smooth, wide open, no whoops, higher speed will just absorb/rebound all the little imperfections so you don't notice the minimal rebound

    Quote Originally Posted by aldend123 View Post

    Yep, in theory. But does having one of each mean the 19's for MX days and 18's for trails? If so, flats on the trail are a much annoying problem than a flat at the track.
    honestly, both would be a trail tire

    If it's an all dirt day on trails: nitro mousse

    Dual sport day with a lot more pavement (and higher speeds): tubes

    try them both out for a year or two...if I hate the mousses, or don't really need them, then one set becomes a dedicated sportsman setup for kart track days

    meanwhile...



    I sprung for the bling cast aluminum case cover...but do I really want to?

    the stator side doesn't carry any oil...but any risk of it hitting "the" rock and jamming into the stator trail side?

    oem is plastic



    the manual suggested installing from the right...but I got it in (with the top end on) from the left anyways

    13t front sprocket in



    after 5 years, an actual OEM kickstand

    I installed all the bolts in the order suggested in the manual and tested the swingarm for vertical and horizontal play. None present and it glides like butter with the new bearings

    I threw the oem linkage on:



    this time, I started w' lower torques. Did it by hand until it felt "tight". Set the wrench to 20ft lbs, click. 25ft lbs, click. (SCARED!), 30ftlb, click. DONE. Don't wanna risk it. Manual says 35ft lbs.

    Couldn't torque the front bolt on the frame all the way down; there is no good angle without an extension and I was afraid of rounding it off. I have it at maybe 50ish ft-lbs and it's tight. Manual says 58 ft-lbs. Added 1/4 turn with the breaker bar for good measure. These bigger bolts should be at 58ft-lbs by the book. I got the swingarm mount for the linkage to 58ftlbs. Swingarm pivot bolt at 61ftlbs. Engine bolts all torqued properly & all the critical bolts except for that lower shock bolt have lock nuts.



    new cable, lubed on the handlebars, and the snap back is smooth AsF.

    new clutch cable too, clean smooth disengagement/engagement

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    Last edited by breakdirt916; 12-27-20 at 01:49 PM.
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  13. #1013

    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    the 19" YZ wheel fit, but the axle did not:



    not long enough...darnit!

    ordered a WR axle

    sprocket didn't look too bad...last install was December 2017

    looking at it more carefully, and I ordered a primary drive sprocket at that time too!

    my last chain/sprocket change was from 15/48 to 14/48 on the wide ratio trans. I didn't even like that change; going down 1 tooth still wasn't enough, and 3 years ago I vowed to try a 13t front sprocket and a low/woods ported cylinder...and here I am. Can't wait!



    now my crowning moment:



    the bike finally has a working oem kickstand!!

    went on great, has good construction, and much more "stable" amount of lean than the swingarm kickstand



    nice to push around the bike and not constantly hear a rattling noise

    can't wait to get the axle in, fire it up, and take it for a ride!!

    this week:
    -handguards
    -hour meter
    -transmission fluid
    -coolant
    -solder the headlight wires so I can use the high/low dimmer
    -aim the baja designs headlight

    also I think the tire I changed is flat.

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    Last edited by breakdirt916; 12-28-20 at 01:01 AM.
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  14. #1014

    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    I got a late start since I have to get bi-weekly testing now...

    but blowing up the bike (twice) due to coolant issues, I was super nervous about getting this done right:



    Quote Originally Posted by Kurlon View Post
    Measure, coolant? Fill, burp, fill, burp, fill, cap. It'll push a lil out the first couple of times till it finds the level it wants to be at, or you can setup a proper resi for extra insurance.
    Coolant: measured exactly and added

    Under bike: leaking

    It's fine: I never tightened the lower rad hose clamp when I re-assembled the bike. Replaced the automotive clamp with an OEM Yamaha piece.

    Gave it a few kicks, AND IT RUNS!

    Weeping from the overflow tube appears to have stopped, although some residual coolant remains in the tube. Would need to heat cycle/burp properly to verify. Additionally, the manual says you can inspect the coolant level simply by removing the radiator cap and looking underneath. The correct coolant level should be right above the fins...so after Kurlon's suggested method, I'll do a couple cap checks and top offs to verify.

    I cinched the axle nut down roughly 1 full turn with half the threads in the nut so I could go 100 yards down the street

    and wow...first impressions is that it's the same bike, but just cleaner

    it's smooth, crisp, no pinging, and a little more low end grunt.

    Can't wait to get that axle, get the coolant level verified, so I can see what she can really do!

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    Last edited by breakdirt916; 12-30-20 at 12:39 AM.
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  15. #1015
    Lifer
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    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    Quote Originally Posted by breakdirt916 View Post
    Additionally, the manual says you can inspect the coolant level simply by removing the radiator cap and looking underneath. The correct coolant level should be right above the fins...so after Kurlon's suggested method, I'll do a couple cap checks and top offs to verify.
    That's how I check mine. Open cap - if you can see fluid, it's good. In my experience, it's not terribly picky. Maybe once a year I'll top it off full, but long as I can see something sloshing around, it'll work. I do have an overflow tank, but it's empty more time than it isn't.

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  16. #1016

    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    the axle came yesterday!



    I didn't really inspect the microfiche much, but there are definitely more spacers and bits than I expected

    hopefully finish testing Monday, and quickie ride Tuesday!

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  17. #1017
    Lifer typeone's Avatar
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    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    nice work keeping this lady alive

    on the coolant, i'm a freek as usual. i do a full flush with distilled + vinegar at the beginning of every season but agree on level, a bit above the fins i'm happy.

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  18. #1018

    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    Quote Originally Posted by typeone View Post
    i do a full flush with distilled + vinegar at the beginning of every season
    uh wut...is this a thing?

    I'd be down...I'm super paranoid about overheating!

    but the good news is after a 90ish minute cruise ride, it stopped burping/leaking coolant:



    rode roughly 2 hours and the bike was great!

    The Woods Ported Cylinder
    Let me start by saying it's the still same bike. It's still a 1994 YZ250 MX-bred bike from the 90's so it will be rough to ride, have a difficult to control power band, has harsh suspension, a small rider compartment, and is noisy. It will never be as easy breezy as the 250 XC-W TPI or any of those new 300 smokers. However, the woods port compared to stock, was very nice. The low end is smoother. No pinging, it is crisp has a smooth roll on, and it's less "blubbery". Before, I was able to lug the bike on the stock port with some clutch work, but the woods port feels much more at home at low RPMs. No clutch slipping necessary on the easier terrain. It has a little more zip from a dead start, and I can upshift earlier, and just cruise in a higher gear which is most of what trail/desert riding is. I'd describe to be more like a KDX200. But at the same time, if I have a wide enough section, I could still unleash hell when I wind it up and that scare you every time. This is what I'm used to, and this is what I want from a dirt bike. It should breath fire, which is why I junked the FE350. The woods port just widens the spectrum of what it can do; I feel like I gained down low without losing much if anything up high.

    Gearing
    Stock/close ratio MX transmission, I started with 15/48. 1st gear was pretty tall and took feathering to get going. But once you were there, you got to 5th really quickly. I dropped to 14/48 w' the WR trans, and it helped a little bit, but mostly felt the same in terms of 1st gear, and I had trouble finding the right gear when riding my local fire road. 3rd gear was still a little too fast, and 2nd gear is too slow. It still doesn't have as much tractor power in the rough stuff as I'd like. Then I said F-it and went 13/49. Now it's nearly perfect! I can cruise in 3rd up, worrying far less about overshooting a turn, or going to fast to correct. Combined with the woods port, you can lug it a little bit more and torque your way up the rock.s

    Suspension
    I increased the rebound all the way in. WOW. This whole time I thought "hey, these old YZ250 forks are just going to be harsh". I was getting bounced allllll over the place. A lot of rocks and bumps just shocked through my arms and I'd expect to pop over rocks instead of ride over them. Now, it just rolls them. It almost felt dead...in a good way. It was stable! Halfway down I backed it out 2 more clicks and rode the rest of the way down, not afraid of hitting rocks and roots. It just sucked them up...a lot like the FE. Can't wait to do more tuning.

    Kickstand
    FFS, I was so happy to just have a regular kickstand with the stance to hold up the bike. It did look like it was bouncing up and down a little, so I am going to keep an eye on it or maybe consider getting a new spring. Don't want it dropping down in a jump.



    above the clouds


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    Last edited by breakdirt916; 01-06-21 at 02:06 AM.
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  19. #1019
    Lifer Kurlon's Avatar
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    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    Get a strap/tie down/something for the stand, don't rely on the spring alone.

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  20. #1020

    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    I've seen some straps on ebay, but the kickstand is at the 2 o clock position when it's up, so what would I strap it to?



    so dual sports are sooooo awesome for test rides

    street ride it from home! wind out all the rpm's under load and see how it behaves

    functionally, it's clean. Runs fine. smooth roll on, and plenty of power.

    audibly: It's hard to say for sure, but I can almost detect a "sound" (similar to a small screw bouncing around in metal at high frequency) *ONLY* when the power valve opens. Keep the rpm's low enough that the power valve is closed, and no such noise exists. Pull in the clutch at speed and kill the motor to coast; no such noise. This makes me nervous knowing the '94 cylinder reputation kissing pistons with exhaust valves.

    I checked the snazzy Tusk radiator temp monitor: rarely went above 150 degrees. (reference range: 145-150 is "cool" and 160-180 when it's "hot"), so the bike's not cooking.

    but short of a top end disassembly, any suggestions on determining if it's safe or not?

    check the plug, pull off all power valve covers, drain the coolant, pull off the head, move the piston up and down in the cylinder, and inspect the exhaust valve operation?

    next steps:
    -pull of plastics/tank
    -inspect motor for leaks
    -power wash/hand clean bike
    -inspect top end
    -check torque on critical bolts
    -add handguards and mount signals
    -tuck some of the dual sport wiring out of the way with zip ties
    -swap the wires on the solder connection; aim the headlight.

    somehow after all that assembly I missed a bolt - the clutch lever bolt fell out

    that's why we do mellow street runs around town. Couple more loose ends and it should be ready for a desert day!

    ride it as much as possible to get used to it, then determine if I want to add a Lectron/Smart Carb and FWW.

    13/49 definitely winds it out on pavement. 55-60mph is the highest I'd be "cruising" and 85mph is a definite no.

    also: nitro mousse are heavy inserts - maybe that will help lower the center of gravity a little for slower technical stuff

    edit #1,000: I need to stop cruising the aftermarket parts on RMATV



    offset bar risers would bring the bars up and forward



    motion pro makes a $22 "coolant recovery tank"

    I'm still burping a few drops every time I stop after 2 rides, so I'd like to see if it's slowly leaking out, or burping out and going back in.

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    Last edited by breakdirt916; 01-10-21 at 04:55 PM.
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  21. #1021

    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    Quote Originally Posted by breakdirt916 View Post

    somehow after all that assembly I missed a bolt - the clutch lever bolt fell out

    that's why we do mellow street runs around town. Just need to tie up a couple more loose ends and it should be ready for a desert day!


    they had one in stock!



    swapping it in today

    no need to order a replacement bolt/perch, so I can keep my next RMATV order small:
    -Tusk 19/27mm axle wrench - one tool covers front axle & rear nut. Removes 3 tools: 19mm socket, 27mm steel axle wrench, extension
    -Tusk tire spoon w' 27mm axle wrench. Replaces the 22mm Motion pro spoon & 27mm socket
    -U-bolt ram mount: for Garmin GPS. I want to start running this for as many rides as possible. Use it as my speedometer & trip odometer.

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    Last edited by breakdirt916; 01-10-21 at 05:28 PM.
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  22. #1022
    Lifer typeone's Avatar
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    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    Quote Originally Posted by breakdirt916 View Post
    uh wut...is this a thing?

    I'd be down...I'm super paranoid about overheating!
    yes, 50/50 mix of distilled water / white vinegar can help to remove mineral deposits and potentially other buildup in the system.

    my spring process...

    - drain coolant
    - fill and run 50/50 mix until engine is warm
    - drain mix
    - fill with distilled water alone, run til warm
    - drain
    - repeat distilled one more time
    - drain + fill with coolant of choice, i use Engine Ice

    if you've never cleaned the system before, could do the 50/50 x2. i never use a garden hose to flush, could introduce minerals.

    it's a basic way to maintain a clean cooling system, as long as everything is running properly, of course. i'm sure my frequency is overkill, but it's easy and cheap maintenance (to me).

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  23. #1023

    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    legit!

    I may start doing that...really having options to help w' cooling system health is a good thing...and dare I say fun?

    couple goodies today:



    hoping to get a single day next week to wrench!

    very curious about the high engine speed tapping noise...it's probably nothing (all older smokers are noisy)

    but I would like to pull the plug, power valve covers/stopper, then if necessary, drain the coolant and pop off the head to take a peep inside to be sure.

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    Last edited by breakdirt916; 01-15-21 at 12:50 AM.
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  24. #1024
    Lifer typeone's Avatar
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    Aug 2006
    Location
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    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    on that noise, what's your jetting and fuel spec? is it running lean when the RPMs are up and PV opens? does it sound like detonation/knock?

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  25. #1025

    Re: street legal 2-strokes

    honestly idk anymore

    I will have to double check those...I didn't change any of it pre/post rebuild

    I did switch to the Amsoil Saber 2 stroke oil w' 91 octane at 32:1

    what does detonation/knock sound like again?

    I can do a run w' gopro to record how it sounds like under load

    clinics/work are getting insane...I can only tinker with the bike before/after work for a couple hours right now...still glad it's plated so I can test it down the street! Still a great way to balance out the stress.

    yesterday:
    -very tough to start
    -plug was loose (wtf?)

    checked spark by pulling the plug, grounding it, and kicking it. Swapped in a new plug for good measure. "snug" tight

    -bike only started w' WOT
    -ran fine, but still has the rattling when rpm's up and PV opens

    pulled over and checked the plug -



    plug loose again! gas line also wiggled loose!

    -The clamp ring thing was also on the "wrong" side of the carb inlet bulge. Pushed it onto the "correct" side and now the fuel line feels adequately secure. Maybe it was tough to start because not enough fuel - that's why I needed WOT.
    -tightened the plug a little more
    -ran it down the street - still making the noise

    worried that the PV was smashing the cylinder, I took off the stopper cover to inspect for wear, but it looks okay



    will need a shed/teardown day at this point

    will check jetting/needle positions, pull off the PV cover, exhaust, drain the fluid and pull the head off.

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    Last edited by breakdirt916; Yesterday at 11:56 AM.
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