Track bikes for large humans?

[Jayspeed]

Thanks, but I bought a 2016 last week. It’s going to PK Monday.

I missed that post. Great bike. I’d be careful buying anything that lowers the stock height of the rear sets if you are going to track it. You’ll eventually be scraping them.

[Garandman]

The stock tires are Battlax BT016R. Suitable for track day use? They have 2,200 street miles. Seems to be a common sportbike stock tire.

[loudbeard]

BT016’s are a fairly sticky street tire. They don’t last a long time so 2,200 on them is quite a bit. I’d replace with a set of Q3’s or the like.

[Garandman]

Kudos to TechSpec. Ordered the SnakeSkin kit for the GSX-R750. When I went to put the 3rd panel on, the adhesive had failed about 1/2 way up the tank.

Emailed Revzilla Friday and they got back to me Saturday with the customer service email. Sent them a pic, and they responded today (Sunday) asking for my address and are sending the replacement panel two day shipping.

[Garandman]

GSX-R riders, how do you disconnect your brake light? Is there a harness plug or can you pull a fuse? If it’s a plug, where do ai find it?

Apparently the connectors for the front turn signals are a PITA to reach.

[Jayspeed]

GSX-R riders, how do you disconnect your brake light? Is there a harness plug or can you pull a fuse? If it’s a plug, where do ai find it?

Apparently the connectors for the front turn signals are a PITA to reach.

Its hard to see and get at but you can unplug it. Assuming the wiring harness hasn't changed. I'd look and see what I need to press to unplug and then by feel, get in there with a long thin flat head screw driver in one hand to press down on the connector. And the other hand pulling on the connector or the wires at the connector because its hard to get a finger on it and pull. Front just pull the speedometer. It's easy just 1 bolt and pull rearward. Pop the windscreen off too if it helps to pull the connector (once disconnected) out the hole.

Edit: if you are tugging on the rear wires because you can't get ahold of the connector, don't pull too hard. I never had an issue pulling wires out of the connector, but I never pulled hard. Once released it pulls fairly easy. Also the connector tab may need to be lifted instead of pressed to disengage.

[Garandman]

Got the bike back Saturday as promised. But couldn’t go to TTD due to a minor-ish but urgent surgery. Next time.

GP Suspension 25mm cartridges and springs front.
JRI MC/10 Triple Clicker Rear shock with 550# spring.
All made in USA. It rides niiiice.

[nhbubba]

Suspension is some of the best money I've ever spent on a motorcycles. Possibly second only to fuel and tires.

I'm considering JRI bits for the Harley. They are big in that segment too.

[Garandman]

What are you GSXR owners adding for crash protection? Thus far all I have is WoodCraft axle sliders.

[loudbeard]

Most don’t use axle sliders. Full set of case covers, solid rear sets, and make your argument for or against frame sliders.

[Chippertheripper]

It’s a gixxah. Alls you need is duct tape.

[Jayspeed]

What are you GSXR owners adding for crash protection? Thus far all I have is WoodCraft axle sliders.

Shogun protection kit. Works great. Believe me.

[Garandman]

They have a “Cut Kit” and “No Cut Kit.” Does I care? The cut kit is 50%.

[Jayspeed]

Not sure. I used no cut for simplicity.

[Kurlon]

Generally speaking the 'no cut' kits compromise protection for ease of install.

[Garandman]

Been riding the bike for longer periods to be ready to ride a couple hours a day on track days. It’s been warm lately, and man do these things pump out the BTU’s.

[nhbubba]

You like a thigh roaster? Try a big twin.

[Garandman]

When I got the bike back from PK, their inspection notes said, “Front brake lever pulls back to bars.” Hadn’t noticed this as the bike stops really well compared to everything else. But the Triumph is full on well away from the bars.

Bled them with a MityVac and they seem a little firmer, but if I grip hard the handle still comes back all the way. Stocks pads, only 2,200 miles.

Is this normal with Brembo Monobloc, or I didn’t bleed them properly, or Other?

[Chippertheripper]

bleed them up and down. zip tie the live over night too is another good trick (if you can read this).

[Garandman]

Surfed around on gixxer.com and this is considered the definitive brake bleeding technique. The dealer serviced this bike this spring, looks like he didn’t bother to bleed it well though the fluid seems good.

The idea of putting Teflon tape on the bleed screws seems reasonable.

Fail proof bleeding. ........... TRUST ME

Get some teflon tape.
Get some clear aquarium hose.
Get a catch bottle for the fluid
Get a wrench to fit bleeders (8mm on most)
Get a phillips screw driver to remove reservoir lid
Get a NEW UNOPENED BOTTLE of QUALITY brake fluid. IMPORTANT!!.
Only takes one person

Put tape on the threads of the bleeders, being careful not to get it so low on the bleeders as to get under them. The teflon tape is important to keep air from seeping past the threads on the bleeders and into the system, as well as keeping the bleeder in place while you pump the lever. The tape is one of the critical parts here. If you wish to not use tape, another option is thread sealant by speed bleeder http://compare.ebay.com/like/3904868...Types&var=sbar. The thread sealant is what makes speedbleeders work really. The hose I am attaching to the nipple of the bleeder once it has fluid in it (after first pump) acts just like the check valve in speedbleeders. Since you need the hose anyway to not make a mess, the check valve is pointless. The key is the sealant on the threads to prevent air seeping past the threads.

Forget the "Pump pump pump, crack.... close... repeat" method. It sucks.

Attach the hose to the bleeders. Run that hose to a catch bottle well above the nipple you are bleeding, so you keep a column of fluid in the hose on top of the bleeder. This column of fluid in the hose on top of the nipples is very important to keep air from going back in the system

Crack the master cylinder bleeder, just enough that you still have some pressure on the lever as you pull it, but fluid is coming out of it also. pump until you get clean clear fluid out of the MC bleeder. I usually run one entire reservoir of fluid through the bleeder. I have also found that letting the lever "snap" back out helps. I am not sure why. It may knock stuck bubbles loose, or cause small bubbles to make bigger bubbles. But it sometimes helps, especially when trying to prime a new system. Re-fill reservoir and move to lower right caliper.

Tap lines lightly with something

Crack bleeder on lower right caliper (with teflon tape on it) again just enough that fluid will pass out of it, but there is some effort at the lever. Run an entire reservoir through it. Close bleeder.

tap on lines again

Repeat with left caliper.

Repeat at all three bleeders, (meaning do this TWICE at EACH bleeder) using about one full reservoir at each bleeder.

remove all hoses and catch bottles. Clean up and ride.

Trust me, you will thank me later. Assuming you dont have a mechanical issue, you will now have the most firm lever you have ever felt in your life.


Some people argue going through that much fluid is "a waste". Truth is once a bottle of fluid is opened it is garbage anyway. So with that said, might as well run it through the system to flush out old fluid and bubbles before you throw the bottle away. Once it is opened it has started absorbing water from the atmosphere and is GARBAGE

[csmutty]

Did your master have a recall on it?

[Garandman]

Did your master have a recall on it?

Good question, I’ll check.

Changed the order (Top, Right, Left instead of Top, Left, Right), squeezed out more each time and it seems pretty solid. Another thing was the adjuster was set to be closest to bar.

[Garandman]

Just checked Suzuki Cycles - Recalls

No open recalls. Think I’m set.

Recalls seem to be 2004-2013.

Massive Suzuki GSX-R recall | MCN

[Garandman]

FYI Lowes has made a deal to sell Craftsman-branded tools so a lot of their Kobalt line is on closeout. Bought a two drawer steel toolbox for $40 instead of $50 original price (as a track day box). They have some wrench assortments on closeout as well.

[Garandman]

Pretty easy to get this set up for a track day. Pull one fuse for the brake light and turn signals, one for low beam and you’re done with that.

The mirrors have the turn signal in them. But the connectors are behind the instrument cluster, removed with a single screw. If I’d thought it through better would have attached a pennant to the connectors to make it easier to put back on.