0
![Not allowed!](http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/images/buttons/down_dis.png)
![Not allowed!](http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/images/buttons/up_dis.png)
I have a 2 car. I only park the truck in the garage when I expect snow as it does not fit easily. The other bay is open, but getting crowded with a workbench, chest and such.
My coworker points out that if you do not put a tall wheel chock on the lift even his 2WD Tacoma will straddle the lift just fine. Meaning one could unload the lift, unbolt any wheel chock, and park the truck indoors when one expects snow. My goal is to try to use the lift without a permanent chock at all. Overall I'm not worried about losing the floor space. I expect not having to kneel or lay on the floor to change oil or service chains anymore will be worth it.
Probably should go ahead and buy a set of tie downs and soft loops to dedicate to the lift now.
I think I do enough bike maint to make the lift worthwhile, but not enough to make a professional one worth it. Typical HF customer, I think.
I have their tire changer and it's easily paid for itself by now. Hopefully I'll be saying the same about the lift in a couple years.
I have no air supply in my shop. Not seen the need to add it. I have an electric impact which is plenty for my needs. Pneumatic operation is actually a con for me, not a pro.
Last edited by nhbubba; 11-22-16 at 07:14 AM.
The HF lift is easy enough to move around. It has casters under it that allow you to slide it around when necessary
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2003 ZX7R
1995 916
The floor space thing is the only reason I'd consider getting rid of mine...if you leave space to work alongside it on both sides, it takes about half a bay of prime real estate right in front of the workbench. Plus it demands orientation where you have some run up area to wheel bikes onto it, so there's another half bay, almost. As I said before though, it's damn sweet to use once set up. It's really nice to be able to set tools and parts right on the table as soon as they are used or needed, rather than reaching and running for every little thing that's needed during a job. I just wheel my toolbox over within reach of where I need it and it definitely speeds everything up.
I've never tried; none of our cars usually end up in the garage. The front of the wheel vice would probably hit the bumper, and there's the air cord to avoid too. Besides those concerns a car could drive over it, but why do it that way when you have to store a bike somewhere anyway, may as well have the bike and lift share the same space, I figure.
My lift is pretty heavy; no casters and I can manage slide it around myself (barely) but it's not something I'd want to do all the time.
Put all these things together and you really need at least a couple toys that need wrenching and regular maintenance, along with at least a half bay to dedicate to it, or I could see it being more hassle than it saves, not even counting the expense. But if you have those things, it's awesome. I definitely feel like I'm better about maintenance, cleaning, and inspection of my bikes with the lift around just because I wasn't a fan of doing those things bent over or on my hands and knees. I swapped a frame on a cbr600rr and that worldve SUCKED without the lift. With it, it just took a while but was kinda fun.
Bought the table. Exactly what I wanted, so far.
Typical low-buck skimpage. Needs 2x as many washers, maybe some nice fender washers for the front wheel stop. Hardware feels like brie left out in the sun. Nothing that can't be fixed with a stop at the home center.
But it works. Lifts higher than I expected. Dirty-toy oil changes just got crazy easy!
Now on the hunt for a scissor jack to use with it. Something like this.
![]()
That dude in Bow NH supplied a jack like that with my lift, might sell separately. Link in my previous post in this thread
I'm interested.. does it have the cradle ears like the one I posted? Need those
Yup. Im glad you posted the pic, i took them off and forgot what they are for!
Mine looks very similar, except its black and where you crank it there's a big hex to attach a wrench with leverage. The jack is heavy as hell, challenging to lift without using both hands
Great question. I'm considering one, too. Also, Doc posted a great idea for a rolling work bench/table. I am planning on building something very much like that, only now it will be rolling with locking wheels. Great thread, thanks everyone.
As far as Harbor Freight goes, their stuff is generally OK for the DIY, but definitely not recommended for professionals or heavy user.
congrats Bubs. You're going to love that with your growing fleet. If I had my way I would have a table for each bike to sit on for it's due love and attention...
LRRS/CCS Expert #820 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / GMD Computrack /
Reminds me to check my 401k and rebalance.
One will do. Already used it to swap the gear oil on he two hunny. Easy. Almost effortless, having the cases right up there at belt height. For the first time in recent memory I got the whole oil change done without spilling so much as a drop. I dig it.
Casters are fine for small moves or medium moves of small bikes. I pushed the WR around the garage up on the lift and it was fine. Little tight with the fire wood and all the crap in my garage for winter mode, even tighter with the truck in. But we'll make do. The convenience is worth it with this much maint to do. I am thus far happy with the lift for the $ spent. Well worth it.
Last edited by nhbubba; 11-24-16 at 11:17 AM.
So this thing stays on the casters, even when up? No stanchions or anything?
Stays on the casters. Rear wheels are fixed, front are casters. There are feet that can be screwed down outboard of the front casters to immobilize and maybe provide just a bit more stability. For big bikes 2-wheeled winnebagos I would not extend all the way.. or I would weld on outriggers or something.. or buy a more substantial lift.
Buddy of mine had a couple of these. He rolled up today with a new one in the box. Early Christmas gift from the wife.
I bought one yesterday and have two questions.
1. Is it necessary to check/bleed the hydraulic jack and why does it seem it is only a rubber button and not a bolt for the fluid?
2. How do you keep the bike from rolling backwards off the front wheel stop and out of position with regard to the wheel chock when putting the bike on the centersand?
Absolutely check the oil level in the hydraulic jack as they tend to come only half filled. I had to top mine off and pretty much everyone I've spoken to had to as well. Easy enough and no bleeding involved.
The bike will roll back a bit out of the front wheel vice when you put it on the center stand. There's really no way to avoid this. I recommend using ratcheting tie-downs to secure the bike when you have it on the center stand. It would be wise to add at least a second pair of U-bolts on the back end of the lift so that you can tie down 4 points when necessary.
Maybe it was already mentioned in the first page or two of this thread, but I highly recommend tossing the HF wheel vise. Buy a real one online that will do the job properly. They can be had for around $100 - here's the one I bought: Motorcycle Lifts W-Vise Derek Weaver Co., Inc.
I have the same scissor jack shown up above and I use it with the lift all the time. It's quite handy for pulling front wheels or forks.
With 9 old bikes needing periodic maintenance, I use my lift all the time and have found it to be a great investment. And it isn't that hard to move around with a bike on it, as long as you take your time and move it slowly. Definitely have the bike tied down!
Last edited by tomk1960; 02-27-17 at 10:15 AM.
Thanks,
I'll check the hydraulic oil tonight. It came with two sets of tie downs. I'll live with the vise, as it seems less critical with a center stand than if I was using it with only tie-downs to stand the bike up.
I'm going to look into moving the wheel stop forward a bit and adjusting the position of the vise. The VFR1200X is a long bike.
I'm using the built in vise with tie downs too. Good enough for my needs, for now.
Love love love having a lift table.
I picked one up Friday, and used it a bunch on Saturday.
I didn't even bolt on the wheel clamp(yet?). Saturday I swapped ice wheels off three bikes, so I rolled them onto the lift, and then used a dirt bike lift to get them up off the table. I've always found dirt bike stands to be a bit wobbly, and lifting them on a table to chest high didn't create more confidence, so I actually used straps to the rafters to steady them(keep them from rocking back and forth when heavy ice wheels were removed).
My R6 is on the table now, for that I just rolled it up and put it on front and rear stands, since the forks are coming off.
What scenario do you guys use the wheel clamp? For bikes you just want on the table, wheels down, straight up and down? I have a Baxley sport chock I used to stick a bike on just to test the lift out. I think I'd use that for regular maintenance where wheels aren't coming off.
I'm trying to find the parts to convert this thing to pneumatic lift...
Mike K. - www.goMTAG.com - For Pirelli tires, Moto-D tire warmers, and Woodcraft parts
LRRS/CCS Expert #86 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / 434racer / Brunetto T-Shirts / Knox / Crossfit Wallingford
R.I.P. - Reed - 3-23-2008
Ditto this setup works great even for my Road King.. I use a scissor lift for the Harley. I put a couple of eye bolts closer to the front corners so the tie downs pull the bike into the wheel chock..I replaced the clamp with a wheel chock. Then just tie downs to keep it in there. Also throw a rear stand under it. Works for 95% of the maintenance I need to do, and for the other 5% Ill deal without the lift